Today, we travel back towards Kas, we must begin our journey towards home as time is running out, it will take us perhaps another week to get back to Akbuk from here. We collected Lee for a short trip ashore in order to gather provisions, Larry had been feeling unwell therefore stayed on board. This lovely town engaged us once again with its burst of enthusiasm, we gazed at fabulous materials swinging from stalls, vivid pinks and blues flapping in the light breeze. A well stocked market store with goods stacked high to its rafters, provided almost everything we could possibly need. Fruit and vegetable stalls ripe with healthy goods, forfilled our last requirements, bags loaded, arms heavily laden we wander back to our tender. It would be rude not to have a drink with Lee before we part company and head in opposite directions. They will follow this coastline a little further east, while we backtrack in a westerly heading. Our beer is thoroughly enjoyed, however tinged with a touch of sadness as we say goodbye to this lovely fun couple, we have said we will meet up again nearer our home in Akbuk. We do realise that this may not happen as Lee & Larry have so much to see and only so long to enjoy this beautiful country, before they must fly to their home in New Zealand. Our goodbyes said, we make our way back to 'Kejstral' ready to pack and set sail. We stow our provisions and pack our possessions before grabbing a quite bite of lunch. Our destination is 18 n.ms away in a bay near Kas called Nuri bay, the pilot book suggests a "tranquil setting only accessible by boat" our idea of heaven. Kevin starts the engine while I take the anchor up, within minutes we are waving to our friends and maneovering our boat between the red and green buoys which highlight this rocky shallow entrance to Ocagiz. Out into the shimmering sea where the swell pushes itself into our path, we unfurl the Genoa into its favourite shape which delights us with a speedy response. The main sail is freed which helps to stabilise our hull, as the wind is coming from a westerly direction which is typically where we want to head, our position is adjusted to allow a close reach and a happy sail. The swell seemed to gather momentum forcing against our beam, which unfortunately begins to drop our speed. With careful tweaking our vessel is carried onwards yet not sufficiently to compensate for this robust swell. Tacking four or five times, we eventually bring 'Kejstral' into a perfect position which will carry us at a reasonable speed of 5 knots, despite the sea and it's lively nature. With around 23 knots of wind to propel us, we arrive in Nuri bay 3.5 hours later, and what a great place. As we turn into the bay entrance the wind now sheltered by this land, we ease our sails and drop speed giving us an opportunity to survey the area before deciding where to anchor. There are two bays on our starboard side and Kas harbour about a mile away on the port side. Clear turquoise waters lie in front of these very quaint bays, the first housing a few fishing boats with small cruisers swinging on anchors in shallow areas. Three stone buildings sit comfortably on the grassy shore looking out at this glorious setting, idyllic little homes that we would ache to own. The second bay is home to a small campsite with its restaurant and a few guest rooms adjoining. Three little ferries are tied to a long silvery grey wooden jetty, at the other end sit a couple of yachts similar in size to ours. There is space for us, but only just enough for a careful manoeuvre as long as we all breath in! Another yacht is tied stern to the rocks nearby, we wondered if the captain was waiting for a space to be available on the jetty. Should we just grab this little spot or tie stern to as well? Ok so, sorry other yacht, but we are going for the space........ As we came closer to find a willing participant on the jetty, one of the little ferries was encouraged by the restaurant worker to move, perfect. The same man shouted that he had a lazy line for us, which means we needn't drop our anchor, how convenient is that? As Kevin brought us into the, now improved space, I gathered the helpful lazy line and secured our bow. Stern lines now tied, we thanked our helping hand and gazed at this fantastic little haven. What a perfectly set up establishment situated in a high rocky cove, no wonder it is only manageable by water, as is the idyllic bay next door. Five minutes later the yacht that had tied stern to by the rocks, appears right next to us, clearly happy to have a spot on this jetty, so I guess he was waiting after all, he just hadn't made a clear attempt which would have been noticed by the waiting restaurant worker. We relax on board absorbing this fabulous little spot, electric available on the jetty, always a good point, hoses nearby for washing and tanks with the added benefit of wi-fi accessible from our comfy cockpit seat, what more could we ask for? Only a few lazy footsteps to our right is the jetty end and a slippery ladder into the most perfect water, from this vantage point we watched some kayaks meandering through the rocky contours of this bay, a perfectly clear sea, aids their leisurely progress across towards shore. Sunbeds lay littered with bronzed bodies toasting gently, towels strewn over unoccupied recliners, the kayaks trickle across a rope barrier, dodging a few families who splash wildly and noisily nearby. The restaurant in front of our mooring is preparing for the evening meal, crisp napkins stand to attention within their protective holders, shiny silver ware chinks against gleaming white plates. The waiting staff methodically line up each setting with precision and care while chattering non stop and barely acknowledging their workload. It is hard to envisage a busy establishment in this remote bay, where is the custom likely to come from?
We of course must enjoy at least a drink here, perhaps even food if it looks reasonably priced. When we saunter the few yards to our icy cold beer we are greeted by the very friendly staff who offer drinks, nibbles and a menu to survey before we even find a seat, what lovely people who really appreciate the cruising yachting community. As we sit idly on white painted chairs at the edge of the wooden decking, we begin to realise how this little place makes their living. Small ferry boats begin to pull up alongside the jetty, the initial few containing only one or two visitors, then gradually from the nearby town of Kas, ten or so people at a time step from these numerous colourful boats. Within a few hours the restaurant was a bustling, delicious smelling, staff filled eatery, we just had to stay and eat. The food was amazing, fresh fish, steaks and burger filled plates glide by our hungry taste buds, warm bread with oil and balsamic vinegar are set down before us. Divine, we are then treated to the most fabulous chicken fajitas ever, sizzling hot, warm wraps and crunchy salad, we are in heaven! The atmosphere is brilliant, light music, hoards of happy people, perfect food and fabulous company to end another day in our travels around this Turkish coastline.
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Today we travel a little further into Kekova bay, to a spot called Ocagiz only 3.5 n.ms away. Tucked snugly into a smaller bay within a larger outer bay, this well protected little haven is really pretty with shallow waters 4-6 meters throughout, but full of gulets whizzing around. They seem to be everywhere you look, I cannot imagine where the passengers have all come from, this area is rather remote on this southern coast, yet the trip boats are stacked alongside the harbour in anticipation of their numerous visitors. We anchored in what we thought was a good spot, Lee & Larry following. A few other yacht's bobbed around their trusty anchor chains nearby. Crystal clear waters gave an almost tropical feel to this bustling environment with a mountainous silhouette providing the perfect backdrop. Healthy trees bend and bow to a rhythm created by the gentle breeze, leaves shimmering as each catch those sparkling rays of sunshine, such an idyllic setting. Once securely anchored, 'Kejstral' is facing bow to the bay entrance, our cockpit faces a row of small jetties protruding from the town inviting us into their surroundings. Alongside grassy shores lie yet more sarcophagus, lots of them, perching on little hilltops, others part submerged at the waters edge. Settling between buildings and cars, these stone caskets throw a touch of history between the vibrant town activities. A few small rocky outcrops sit around the outside of this bay, most of which still hold onto the remains of stone cottages and houses, gorse thriving perfectly in their shade while birds find shelter within their crumbling walls. We took Zoe our tender across the short distance to shore, as, never quite knowing the safest place to abandon her. We later learned that each of these small wooden jetties are in fact built by the town council, providing a fantastic choice for boaters like ourselves. Additionally saving us from the obligatory drink or food purchase generally expected when we tie up to someone's private jetty. The town is smaller than it appeared from the sea, spread around the beach front are numerous restaurants all expectantly awaiting your thirsty arrival. All over the hill behind and trailing towards the sea are sarcophagus, never ending piles of them. Old stone ruins nestled between the trees and little stalls set out, offering locally produced clothing and hand woven linen goods. Bougainvillea plants trail pink flowers over the worn encryptions, their leaves tickling tthemselves nscriptions of long emptied sarcophagus. We cannot believe there are so many just dotted around this little town. Three stores provide both locals and traveller's with their fruit vegetables and the smell of freshly baked bread tempts us in by tantalising our nostrils. Huge fresh peaches piled high in crates, peppers of green red and yellow stacked neatly next to washed potatoes which are enormous, all just awaiting their purchase. Vendors chat happily with us in their native language we try our best to pick out the words and phrases leading the conversation. We struggle with the speed at which they talk, but manage to answer and nod appropriately.......we hope! Hand crafted jewellery and trinkets displayed on many of the stalls are pointed out by there eager makers, each smiling happily despite our declining words. For such a compact town we are amazed to see such busy people with their vibrant goods managing to stay afloat with thriving businesses. Our walk was short yet my brain feels exhausted with the bright colours and bold people, busy boats and bustling stalls, so much to take in within such a small place. As we reach Zoe tied onto her well worn jetty, the small wooden shack nearby drew us in for refreshments. Sinking comfortably into soft padded cushions on bamboo chairs, we absorb this beautiful setting. Sipping ice cold local beer we gaze over at a little fleet of brightly painted fishing boats, with nets sprawled over the wooden decks, fishermen busy themselves with repairs and cleaning. Trip boats hosting hoards of fresh faced holiday makers all pointing and gesticulating towards their newly spotted surroundings, whizzed by creating a wake which sent the fishermen awkwardly tumbling into their clean and newly repaired nets. As the day progressed we realised the sea was not quite as sedate and quiet as we hoped for. Despite the protective outer bay, this little inlet managed to collect and hold onto that incoming swell. That together with the wash from other vessels meant a very uncomfortable anchorage.
When we take Zoe our tender back to our boat, it is clear we must move. The swell is growing and becoming more uncomfortable, within a few minutes the decision was made to pull up our anchor and travel 200 yards towards the shore and tuck snugly into a slightly more protected spot, away from the movement and closer to 'Sea Dreams'. Now that we are somewhat more settled, we spend our evening on board relaxing to some background music with home cooked food and a dash of home made wine, perfect. Well, it would have been........Until the Gulet pulled in alongside us, fortunately it's guests were relatively quiet by bedtime, until that point we watched these happy holiday makers enjoying their meal on deck, followed by an abundance of alcoholic beverages and a spell of drunken dance moves, all great fun to watch from the comfort of our own little private 'Kejstral'. Kekova bay is the site of villages dating back to the Lycian and Byzantine era, which has since been protected by the Turkish ministry of environment and forests since 1990. This area has prohibited divers, swimmers and coastal fishing since that date which has created a picturesque landscape filled with the beauty of nature, turquoise waters and patches of vivid green forest. The occupant's of this ancient site apparently committed suicide by fire and their sarcophagus are dotted all over the area, but if they all perished...who built the sarcophagus? Further reading saw that this same village was abandoned following an Arab invasion around the 19th century. Today we investigate the site for ourselves. Once in the tender Lee, Larry and ourselves chugged happily towards the wobbling jetty and nearby beach, we scrambled onto land and secured the tender onto the old, well weathered wooden jetty. Two little restaurants made their living from this sheltered lovely bay, the less inhabited looking building is where we are able to have water for our boats, whereas the building to the right seemed a little more inviting. In order to reach the ancient site we must go through one of the restaurant gardens! On our arrival a sombre faced, large bodied man emerged asking if we would like refreshments, in Turkish we explained our plan to go walking then perhaps on our return we may have drinks in his restaurant. Nodding in acceptance, he led us to where the garden met out trail. His gate snapped firmly closed behind us where we found ourselves in a wide open, almost barren field. Orange speckled butterflies danced past us in their search for yellow headed flowers among the dried crisp grasses. Bees noisily buzzed between our sticky bodies as we trudged across this expanse of open sun beaten ground. Twigs snapped while leaves crackled as our footsteps picked through the prickles and rocks until we reached the entrance to a tumbled down looking farm. The gate creaked open inch by inch, rust engulfing each hinge which looked as if they might snap at any second. Scrawny chickens pecked around us, scratching for scraps of grain, bright feathered cockerels complained loudly at our intrusion, while a few multi coloured goats nudged at their wooden enclosure in a useless bid for freedom. A few small tents were carefully positioned under luxuriously shady trees, an old water tap idily dripped onto the dry sun charred soil below. Not a soul to be seen, yet sufficient evidence of a well used camping and farming establishment surrounds us. Birds sit high on the tiniest of branches at the peak of the leafy tall trees, they watch our every move, chirping happily whilst no doubt highlighting our presence to their feathery friends. Deserted farm buildings sprawl over this landscape, some in ruins, held together only by the strongest of stone walls, roofs long gone lay in pieces inside and sprinkles of terracotta tile nestle among the overgrown weeds outside. Window openings allow nesting birds to set up home, squatters languishing in these abandoned buildings. Ancient yellow sandstone walls disguised with wild ivy and crispy twigs sit precariously on the waters edge, beautifully shaped keystone's and lintels sit gracefully on the arched entrance ways leading us through into yet another little parcel of yesteryear and foliage. We pick our way through this mesmerising hillside which meanders around the waters edge, stepping over these tumbled down building blocks and tree roots we are faced with the most amazing site. Sarcophagus are left scattered across the tiered hillsides many showing signs of damage and disturbance, other ancient coffins stand proudly with beautifully sculptured stone lids bearing unrecognisable inscriptions from an era long gone. These burial grounds hold so much history of the lives and culture within this country, stories of devastating war, life changing earthquakes, all consuming plagues and horrendous tragedy. As we stroll past broken caskets and crumbling stone our minds are filled with, who's, why's and when's, if only these artifacts could give us more insight into this turbulent era. Stepping beyond this site, we are drawn to an old grey stone house balancing on the tip of a small peninsula, an artist's dream to paint or capture on film. Situated perfectly on a pebbly headland, with a small fishing jetty and wooden boat tied alongside, this captivating home in this picturesque setting is just heavenly. Blue painted shutters protect its dwellers from the dazzling summer sun, while a hearty thick stone exterior minimises the harsh cold winds of winter. It's outlook is filled with the fabulous historical site and the little tranquil bay beyond where the fishermen can watch their lines and nets safely. This bay opposes the one we are securely anchored within. It is known to be particularly lively in a westerly wind, and the more sheltered inlet is much too shallow for yacht's, therefore not a good anchorage for us. The sun began to take its toll on our weary bodies, despite our bottled water we struggled. The heat is overpowering draining what little stores of energy we had, which encouraged us to head back. Again we marveled at the surroundings, with just a little less vigour, tired limbs took us through those old walls and tombs until we untied the farm/ campsite gate. Carefully stepping around the various poultry, we ambled lazily onwards until we met a couple of sailing friends of Lee and Larry. Marietjie and Archie from South Africa had anchored near us and had that same wish to experience this lovely site. After a chat we continued our walk until we finally reached the two restaurants near 'Kejstral'. Of course by this time we had become particularly parched therefore, our earlier conversation with the rather unhappy looking owner, meant we must stop at his establishment for refreshments. Icy cold beer and a bench, what more could we possibly need! Our boats swung lazily around their respective anchors, moving aimlessly with the gentle current, their flags barely tickled by the odd puff of breeze created from other passing boats. We gaze out over this quiet bay watching swallows skim the treetops, dipping down for a tasty fast food snack onto the dry crunchy grass below. The beer consumed, our weary feet rested, therefore time to head back on board for lunch and a siesta, it is pretty hard coping with continuous heat and a breezless atmosphere. Marietjie and Archie ( the couple from South Africa ) were anchored behind 'Kejstral', and having decided to go for our evening meal to one of the restaurants, we climbed into Zoe our tender and motored over to ask them to join Lee, Larry and ourselves for dinner that evening. For a few hours we read, dozed and slip down into the cool calm water for respite from that burning sun, fish follow our gentle movements as we wrinkle the glassy waters. We don our snorkels and investigate our surroundings, a grassy, sandy seabed holds little shoals of inquisitive white stripy fish, they nibble at the sand before darting swiftly away into the distance on our approach. A couple of sea bass wind and weave their way through the longer foliage, their behaviour signals to us, we have invaded their territory, but they stay proudly protecting and circling their home ground as we glide past. Small brown crabs side step their way over an uneven pebbly patch, their pincers snipping the water with each faltering wobbling step. Their beady eyes catch our movements, they freeze in posture as we agitate the water overhead, once past and bearing no threat to them, their little white legs carry them onwards on their journey across this endless seabed. We drip dry on the deck, allowing the hot sun to evaporate the salty water, our skin tingles as the fine hairs dry leaving a crispy salty residue behind. Our attention is drawn to a visiting yacht, her white hull shines brightly against the deep blue water, she is traveling quickly on this increasingly windy afternoon. Although there is around 12 knots of wind, this yacht appears to be skillfully titrating her sails to achieve a great speed. Her captain moves in for a sharp tack bringing the vessel across this bay beautifully, surprisingly cutting slickly between the already anchored yacht's. As she reached the shallow waters to our left, yet another tack was initiated, what an awesome sight, this captain and crew have obviously carried out these maneouvers many times. Again a skillful change of course brings them snugly between a sleepy flotilla of resting boats. Another tack brought them closer to us, we waved a greeting as did each of our neighbours, by this point every stationary vessel had caught sight of this amazing sail. An audience of probably twelve boatees watched with baited breath as this vessel and crew brought in their sails whilst gently gliding to a perfect mooring alongside the wobbliest jetty in the world! Even a round of applause erupted from their audience as they brought their yacht to an adept landing, what an achievement! At six pm, we all piled into the 'sullen faced, large man's' restaurant, two other wooden tables lay near our dining space both filled with English charter yacht captains and crew. One of which held that magnificent team of sailing experts, they enjoyed a congratulatory, ego bursting few minutes as we all threw compliments at their skillful display that afternoon. Soon the atmosphere grew warm with comfortable chatter, light background music and great food. Our neighbours became new friends, and our collective stories of pristine bays, fabulous new villages and amazing experiences, gave us all a burst of inspiration for our future journeys. The tables of holiday guests nearby clearly eager for snippets of perfect anchorages and well priced harbours, joined our conversations. Advice was sought of the local traditions and customs surrounding this unique country, tip and hints were passed around while mental notes were made of facilities and provisions, all of us willing to share valuable information to our fellow sailors. What an eclectic mix of people, from a fantastic range of places, South Africa, New Zealand, us from Turkey and the British group, all travelling around this stunning coastline enjoying this tranquil lifestyle. We have certainly met some lovely people on our journey so far. Today we are meeting a couple of sailing friends who live in Kas they have been living in Turkey for a few years, and keep their yacht 'Indian Summer', a 40 foot Bavaria, in Kas marina. We try to catch up with them each year which is lovely and they have been really helpful in our search for our boat. Pep and Mick lived aboard for a few years with their gorgeous Dalmatian Prince, and actually sailed 'Indian Summer' from the UK. However, Prince is now finding the companionway or stairs a little tricky now that he is getting older which has encouraged them to find accommodation in the area, they still manage to sail very regularly and offer yacht charter over the summer season. We spent the morning in a little bar having coffee and enjoying our catch up, at some point we hope to sail alongside them on one of their trips. Whilst relaxing in this seafront bar, the paragliders began to appear from high on the sheer rockface above us, yellow, black and red shutes silently glide across the clear crisp skies. Lazily they meander down through the rocky backdrop, gently drifting over the highest treetops before descending down over roofs and buildings. Slowly the faces filter into focus, expressions of pure delight and awe at their achievement. As they descend, drawing closer to land and almost skimming the water surface, the expressions clearly change to a brief moment of fear and panic as touch down looms ahead. Wide eyed, each glider eases themself tentatively down for a perfectly smooth landing on the narrow harbour wall. Elation replaces those furrowed brows with huge smiles of happiness and I imagine probably a little relieved that both feet are now resting on that safe firm ground. Our eyes follow each change of direction, each alteration of course, willing them down through that very unforgiving rocky territory, any unplanned gusts of wind or minor adjustments to their shute would certainly cause serious injury. As each paraglider lowers gently towards the harbour, their enormous coloured wing folds into huge bubbles of bright material, air lingering within their folds, hampering the retrieval process. Rushing to gather their billowing shute, these guys keep a watchful eye on the skies above for the next rainbow coloured incoming, threat and landing. As we look up, the skies are littered with brightly coloured airborne holidaying visitors, what a fabulous experience for these people, in such a beautiful setting. We said goodbye to our friends and agree to meet up again in the next year, two lovely people with so much experience and knowledge of sailing and life onboard, always good to see them. We made our way back and had lunch on board 'Kejstral' before packing up ready to sail onwards to Kekova. With our friends Lee & Larry sailing alongside, it will be brilliant to see their yacht with full sails. Kekova is a very picturesque area in southern Turkey, renowned for its beauty. With forestry and wildlife, amazing scenery and villages, not to mention the historical sites, this coastline is not to be missed when sailing. We follow 'Sea Dreams' out from Kas bay into the more open waters beyond. The wind shaped our main and Genoa sails perfectly, carrying us through a gentle swell. The Greek Island of Meis sat ahead of us, our route following the north and eastern contours of this very popular island. We wound our way through rocky outcrops, skimming the shallows and spotting turtles, lovely bays and sundrenched beaches. We must visit this Island in the future, for now though, we stay in Turkish waters and maintain our planned route. 'Sea Dreams' is a fabulous sight, in full sail she skims the water beautifully, cutting her way through these gently swelling waves. The wind although light, is enough to carry her 50 foot hull easily and curve her enormous sails into that perfect shape. We do have to revert to our engines at one stage, which yet again frustrates us all. Gulets can be spotted tucking themselves into tight little coves, their lazing guests experiencing the tranquility of this fabulous area and take great pleasure in languishing in its stunning coastline. The 15 n.m.journey took around 3 hours and with a maximum wind speed of only 7.5 knots we were lucky to achieve most of the trip under sail, at one point we had the goose wing position with our wind coming from behind us, we managed to have a sail out in either direction, mimicking a goose pair of wings. Of course with no spinnaker pole to assist, we couldn't maintain this technique for very long, and flapping sails are not good! Negotiating our way through the local small islands can be a little tricky as not every outcrop is plotted on the Navionics system used by lots of the sailing community. Therefore a watchful eye must be kept on each land mass, rock and ripple of water, we glide smoothly past the jagged shores and tomb covered Islands. This area is well known for the many sarcophagus dotted over hillsides and shores, and what an eerie yet fascinating sight they make. Rounding the Kekova entrance we pull into the westerly tree lined bay, the foliage creating a very rich green canopy and much needed shade to a couple of small local restaurants. Our anchor settled nicely into the sandy sea bed, the gentle breeze cooling us from the bow and relieving our sticky bodies. The cool calm water urged us in, allowing us to glimpse it's crystal clear depths, we couldn't refuse. Within moments we slipped into the fabulous coolness, instantly easing our overheated brains. Small curious white fish, scuttle around us, investigating our intrusive behaviour, swimming so close yet darting away furiously as we move around them. We wallow in this perfect spot, sun blazing down with so much power, yet we float and swim in this tranquil cool bath with an amazing backdrop, a little sanctuary for us. Lee and Larry enjoy the afternoon swimming and relaxing nearby, we are cooking tea this evening for them as we have had some lovely meals onboard 'Sea Dreams'. Pasta, homemade wine and lots of laughs end this lovely day in a great setting with some fabulous friends. Tomorrow we intend to explore this little bay and hope to learn a little piece of its history.
Lee & Larry appeared around 09.00 hours, looking forward to our day out, we all headed ashore leaving 'Kejstral' and 'Sea Dreams' to entertain themselves. Their tender was secured next to a few fishing boats, each with vulnerable looking rope, barely attached to the most crumbling jetty ever! Hope it will still be there on our return! The roadway took us into town within a few minutes, being quite early, we caught the fishing fleet arrive back from their nights work. Box after polystyrene box were loaded from boat to shore, some pretty heavily filled with the slippery goods. Crabs stretched their blue legs over to where fingers grasped the handles, then one side steps out of its box in a dash for freedom. Meanwhile cray fish investigate the new surroundings with their long stick antenna, sitting tidily in rows and unaware of their fate. The fishermen, seemingly oblivious to their catch's intention to scramble away, gabble to their friends without stopping for a breath. Yet without even turning his head, the fisherman reaches out to one side and retrieves the wandering crab, while continuing to gossip and laugh. We take the road uphill towards the otogar or bus station, where we have seen the car hire man, when we arrive, his shop is closed with no sign of our car. A neighbouring shop owner takes it upon himself to organise a car, we wait in anticipation of an elevated price to accompany his kind gesture. We negotiate a fair cost for his car for the day, 100tl, we managed to knock him down from 120tl. Let's hope it gets us where we want to go! We manage to find a map with our chosen destination clearly marked and we go, Kevin and Larry in the front, Lee and I with the navigation behind. Saklikent Gorge (Hidden city) is our destination, we have read about its amazing structure and size, we have spoken to friends who have been and loved it, so we must see this natural phenomenon for ourselves. The Ministry of forest and water management, govern this site which covers 4068 acres of land and has been established as a National park since 1996. Snow from the Taurus mountains melt and flow through the rocks, over thousands of years the gorge has been created by corrosion from this water force and flow. The gorge is only passable in the summer months when water flow is at a minimum. It is 11 miles or 18 kms in length and 980 ft deep, one of the deepest in the world. We arrive in the carpark, and follow signs on foot to an entrance gate, it is rather quiet, yet there are staff members everywhere, I guess it will be filled with hoards of tourists very soon. Signs fill the walls of the wooden entrance porch, highlighting rules and hints for the attraction. Walking sandals or water footwear are essential, a rucksack for anything you would like to carry, but it could get wet or damaged therefore, less is good! You really need your hands free for stability. With a little trepidation we walked through the metal gate onto a steel raised walkway, immediately we could see an astounding sight, rockfaces rose up on either side of this huge narrow gorge, the walkway had been built onto the rockface and erected perhaps 10 feet above the gushing stream of fast flowing water. These massive rocky sand coloured walls towered high towards brilliant blue sky, the cool air in this cavern due to a lack of sunlight and the cold water flowing below us was incredible when the temperature outside hovered around 36 degrees it was around 24 degrees inside this gorge. Following the walkway our eyes were drawn to a cascade of white frothing water tearing through a smaller crevice just a few feet away, the powerful spray splattered ice cold drops of mountain water towards us. How can it be so cold in these temperatures at this time of the year, and it's force was incredible as it ripped through these ancient rocks. We left the steel path and entered a waiting area, various little huts had been erected selling water shoes and bags for covering items, not designed to get wet. Our rucksacks held only essential money and one camera, knowing that anything we carried was likely to be immersed. The next challenge was to cross a large very fast flowing stream which poured from those high mountain crevices, a few people balanced gingerly on slippery white rocks, poised ready to leap into the water, a little fear etched on their suntanned faces. As feet touched that racing current, screaches echoed around our cavernous tomb, it was our turn. Icy cold first steps into the shallow fast flowing stream took our breath away, cries of " it's freezing" filled the air, being last in our group to step forward I now knew what to expect, yet the frozen water still forced a shock and gasp. A rope handrail has been erected, which clearly assisted us as the furious current took us all by surprise. We picked our way over huge rocks and slippery boulders until we stepped onto the grey white rock floor beyond. A flat shiny rock floor opening took us deeper into these mountainous clay and limestone walls, massive formations of this beautiful white and sand stone coloured rock loomed high above us. Narrow channels led gushing water though these glistening stones, we stepped across streams and into little rock pools, over large boulders and down the other side. Every step hosted a new pool waiting to be dipped into, the water temperature rose as we graduated through the passages. A few visitors emerged as we wandered through this magical hideaway, eyes glowing with pleasure and wonder. Each person wet from waist to toes yet loving the experience of this unique gorge, cameras snap each new crevice and formation for an amazing collection of memories and treasures. Our path winds into more narrow single file steep climbs, each footstep now lingering and balancing a little longer while searching for that perfect slippy foothold, hands stretch out to grasp at handholds, while splashing through these rocky water pools. Our rucksacks are held higher and we grab each other's hands in this final few feet of now waist high water. As we near the end of this gorge the water warms and rocks narrow a little further deep into the mountain side. This beautiful place narrows and darkens deeply, the pools more tricky to negotiate with our precious cameras, which is where we decide to head back. As we trickle back through the now growing crowds of incoming tourists we are relieved that we chose to come early. Women with small babies struggling to maintain their balance, weave around children that barge their way through the adults, with no fear or worry of tripping or falling. We nimbly pick our way back over this fantastic scenery, through bikini clad youngsters and fully covered Turkish men and women. Stunning sparkling surfaces surround our walk back, sun light flashes through the trees hundreds of feet above giving a warm yellow glow to this amazing place. Freezing cold waters greet our wet but warm feet as we step once again into the gushing flow that we had forgotten at the entrance, then we make our way back across the suspended walkway out into the incredible heat of the sun. What a brilliant place to visit, we absolutely loved the experience and recommend it highly if ever in this area. Once out and exposed once more to the heat, we realise how hot and thirsty we are. At the entrance way a rickety bridge carries us over this now torrential stream which froze our feet a few minutes ago. On the other side is a well established group of snack bars and restaurants, each of them built of decking and balancing precariously over the fast flowing water. We order gozleme, (savoury pancakes) and chicken, rice with beer to celebrate a fabulous morning. We climb onto cushions with typically Turkish, red patterned covers and sit around a flat low table awaiting our lunch. Our view is straight into the vast gorge and looking up towards the steel walkway. Hoards of visitors now line this raised pathway, each scrambling to see the awesome pools and rocks, so happy and relieved we caught this fabulous attraction before they all arrived. Our food was gorgeous, tasty with spices and flavour, accompanied by the gasps and screeches from within the icy waters. only a few yards away. Fortunately I had taken spare clothing for us, we couldn't have continued our day in comfort without them, after our quick change we climbed back into our car. Next stop Kalkan town, we had visited this quaint hillside resort before, however Lee and Larry were yet to be enthralled by its lovely winding cobbled streets and pretty shops and restaurants. We brought our hire car to a parking spot at the upper end of this busy town, this bustling town centre gave no indication that tucked beyond these everyday businesses, lay a very enchanting walkway into an old historical and well preserved 'old' town'. Each step that we took led us gently downhill and into a very different scene, little stone buildings opened their bright painted doors to entice us inside. Gorgeous silks and cotton goods folded neatly across shelves and hung on racks of wood, sparkling materials caught our eye as we absorb these very Turkish delights in such a pretty shop. Vendors greet us as we linger at colourful window displays, golden ornaments and shining lamps sparkle in this hot afternoon sunshine. We smile and reply our thank you to invitations of cay in every doorway, each owner willing us inside to admire and of course purchase yet more fabulous goods. Little coffee shops perch on steps, large plants and soft seats add to these lovely garden rooms, they are almost hidden among these sandstone walls and cobbled streets. We amble down the winding paths, Larry disappears into a fabulous old building, we loiter nearby admiring yet more beautifully dressed windows and displays. Once he emerges, we are surprised to hear that the shop owner has had no customers at all that day, exquisite rugs and brightly woven carpets fill these windows, yet not one has been purchased, such a sad thought knowing that rent and rates for these premises must be extortionate. This delightful town is so inviting and beautiful, yet the tourists are not coming, unfortunately media and hearsay seem to be a huge reason for this sorry sight. We make our way onward towards the small beach and seafront bars, sunbeds line this tiny but fabulous sandy shore. Children splash with their siblings and friends, parents relax with their oil covered bodies poised expectantly for those burning rays of heat. Brightly coloured towels lay sprawled across stark white sunbeds, grass covered umbrellas stand guard over their circle of shade. We stop for refreshments overlooking this amazing sight, this beach tucked just below us on our left with bars and eateries overlooking the small busy harbour on our right. We venture onwards to Kas next, we have seen lots of paragliding each time we have visited this area, the mountains are so high that they lend themselves to this amazing sport, climbers and absailers are also drawn to this fabulous location. We drive in the hope of finding their starting point on the highest part of this mountain range, unfortunately we follow our map, yet still manage to end up in the wrong direction. To add to the frustration we are running low on fuel, and the paragliding seems to be finished for today. Once we realise that this journey is rather futile, we head back towards Kas town. On our route we stop to capture this stunning scenery and our boats anchored directly below, the view is amazing we hadn't realised just how many little Islands sit nearby in the hazy horizon. Back in Kas we enjoy a beer on the seafront, as we relax in this lovely shaded spot we hear a band strike up and play the Turkish National anthem. Everyone around us stops walking instantly, voices quietened and traffic came to a sudden standstill, what a stunning reaction to their National anthem, very unusual to see. We wander over to where the music had begun and found crowds of local people clapping and cheering, it seemed to be an award ceremony for the Turkish underwater sports federation! As our day drew to a sticky hot close we decided to find a typically Turkish Lokantasi or eatery, near our car hire shop sat a very small very basic restaurant. As we pulled out our four chairs it's owner leapt to his feet in a bid to assist his new guests, with a polite 'iyi aksamlar' good evening we were offered water, bread and a yummy assortment of dishes from their stove. Green beans cooked in gorgeous tomato sauce, aubergines with tomato and onions, chicken cooked in a delicious sauce and various other dishes. An enormous plate of mixed salad came with a fresh basket of bread, a pomegranate dressing offering a sweet tasty change to this very colourful salad. We ate and loved every mouthful, more bread and salad arrived until we finally gave up counting the courses. Beautifully cooked food and excellent service, we completed our meal with free cay and a huge thank you for our perfect, and extremely cheap meal.
Our feet were tired, and our tummies were full all we needed now was a quiet evening sitting in our cockpit with a perfectly cold, crisp, pink home made wine and to watch the sun disappear. A fabulous day with great friends in an amazing place, just perfect. Kas is only 13.6 N.m. away, which is just as well really as the wind is determined to evade us. We have woken to a perfectly still, sedate sea and pristine crisp blue sky, neither of which is likely to alter for the next few days. Our weather app has been pretty reliable over the last few weeks, however, during our Greek month it failed to predict those terrible gusty overpowering winds that we endured. For this trip so far, the winds have reflected those on our app pretty well. Our first task for today is a quick tidy up on 'Kejstral' before we sail to meet our New Zealand friends Lee and Larry in Kas. Our task took no time at all, but was interrupted by the occasional gulet pulling in to anchor nearby, knowing how these captains like to pull up very close beside us, we try to be very vigilant when they appear from nowhere to drop anchor, just to be sure we are not blocked in or our anchors crossed. We set off at 09.00 hours into the windless bay, 'Kejstral' skimming the glassy surface barely rippling this beautiful sea. A few small fishing boats sit quietly reeling in their empty lines, disappointed faces re bait and toss out for another fruitless attempt. These waters must frustrate those families who rely on a healthy catch, motoring home at the end of an almost fishless day with a pitiful offering. There has been an influx of a breed of very aggressive sharp toothed foreign fish, which unfortunately are powerful and hungry, yet if caught are rather tasteless and unsellable. We always ask these fishermen about their catch and have yet to see a happy proud response, stories of huge tuna, bass and bream are always from further afield and much deeper waters. Our mainsail is unfurled, we hope for that little increase in wind but as yet rely on the motor and fuel. The sea as we follow the southern coastline begins to develop a gentle swell, this landscape is rocky and the high steep cliffs tower above us with a golden glow as the sun climbs higher over our heads. Small fissures in these cliffs create perfectly triangular beaches in the crevices below, which have been carefully laid out with pretty umbrellas and sunbeds ready for the sun hungry tourists and locals to enjoy. A road runs high on the cliffs following this amazing, pretty coast, where the crevices form, a bridge has been erected which from this vantage point looks fantastic. Cars line the roadway parked for the day above each beach, offering an idea of the number of people enjoying a lazy day of sunshine in these tranquil little coves. The colours look stunning, aqua waters lapping over golden sandy beaches vivid green foliage drawing your eyes to the deep blue cloud less skies above. Each beach managing to fill daily with locals who have knowledge of this unique landscape, people who can spend their day in these blissful backdrops cooling themselves in these gloriously clean waters. The swell builds over our morning sail, causing us to bob up and down in response, our mainsail helps us remain stable, limiting our swing and therefore our likelihood of seasickness! As we approach the small Kas inlet, the long peninsula on our right, starboard side, begins to fill with pretty homes and well maintained mature gardens. On our left, port side Kas marina drifts into view. Our friends yacht 'Sea Dreams' is already anchored securely they are not onboard. We throw out our anchor nearby, yet far enough away for privacy and space, however, we are close enough to shout out "beer"! We have lunch whilst ensuring our anchor is set properly as our next stop is town for a walk and some provisions. The heat is unbearable, more so as we struggle to find enough shade, we have a spray hood which covers the cockpit preventing sea spray and a shade which unrolls and attaches to the bimeny at the stern however, the sun has the ability to move and so does 'Kejstral'! I know.....I was shocked too! This is where we struggle as the sun and boat never sit in exactly the correct position therefore that dazzling bright unforgiving ball of heat hits us constantly. We do of course erect a haphazard cover from items such as blankets and towels, or in fact anything that's blots out that dreaded sun. But they just look very ... shabby. We have seen some very well shaded, expensive covers on other boats, they look fabulous so at some point we will probably have to throw some money at it just to feel protected and cool. Maybe another year ! Lee and Larry appear in the distance on their very plush tender ( it even has fenders) poor Zoe just has to make do with being bumped into every jetty, beach and pontoon we arrive at. It is lovely meeting so many interesting and friendly people and helps to make this lifestyle so enjoyable as we share stories and experiences, laughing at our mistakes and gasping at our tales. A beer or two is normally consumed and minutes roll into hours of entertainment, it can be such a social way of travelling. We spend the afternoon with them planning our trip the following day. We have decided to hire a car between us and drive to Saklikent Gorge, one of the local tourist attractions, then perhaps visit a few nearby areas not accessible by boat. That evening Kevin and I take Zoe to the marina just opposite where we have anchored to pick up some provisions. Kas marina is one of the most expensive but well planned marina's in this area, it holds mainly yacht's with a few moderate sized cruisers tied up on the breakwater. 472 boats can be held here. Marina's are generally used to moor and leave boats for long periods of time whether on the hard standing or 'hard' where repairs and maintenance can be undertaken. Or in a berth or 'floaty area'. You can additionally use them to top up with fuel water and have dirty water emptied from you boat. Water comes in varied colours or terms in boat life, grey water is your dish and shower waste where as black is your toilet waste. Unfortunately this fluid collects as you can imagine, in tanks ( mainly the black water) grey water however is in most cases drained directly into the sea. So, every now and again one has to bow our head and admit to using the toilet and therefore tell the marina's that we need emptying, gorgeous!! The task is not as dreadful as it sounds, the guys at the pumping snap on their latex ( hopefully not) gloves and bring out a pipe, this is connected to the ' waste' compartment on the deck and just .....hoovered out, lovely! Not one of my favourite parts of boating as discussing toilet usage should be a private matter in my opinion. The supermarket within this marina is small and surprisingly poorly stocked, considering it is September and there are lots of holiday makers around. It is so small that in each aisle we must hover until the staff member has finished stocking shelves and allows us to pass, hmm not ideal, especially when pushing a trolley of bottled water. We fill up with essential coffee, milk, eggs cheese and cereals, the fresh foods will be sought tomorrow in town in one of those fabulous markets. Our evening is spent onboard reading and writing and enjoying an amazing sunset with a glass of wine, and looking forward to our sight seeing day tomorrow. What a great nights sleep, rousing gently into our quiet surroundings, the water gently lapping on our hull and a few birds twittering tunefully from high on the mast. A glow of early morning orangy sun through the hatches slowly lit our cabin, the heat is less intense overnight therefore we seem to sleep more comfortably. This morning our neighbouring boatees are having a lie in too, not a sound could be heard from any boat nearby. Stepping out onto the deck, in that perfect dawn temperature is beautiful, we love this unique cool period before the overbearing sun envelopes our skin. Fish weave through the still waters chasing minute molluscs, flies dance on the surface tempting and teasing the hungry swimmers. Ripples appear as the fish lunge for their prey, creating perfect circles over the water, small splashes follow as they break the surface and head into the deep with their meal. A turtle pops up for a long gasp of air, filling his lungs while surveying his surroundings. His pale green eyes and aging face meets my smiling gaze, what a fabulous sight, as his colourful green and yellow patterned shell glints in the morning sun. He glides gracefully across the bay in front of 'Kejstral', before diving down to some cooler, no doubt grassy spot below, as I look down and watch him swim over the seabed he is joined by another of his kind. These creatures are fascinating, they spend only a few moments on the surface gathering enough oxygen, before submerging to the seabed where they can stay for up to two hours in a resting state. Clearly the more active they are, the more frequently they must surface and reoxygenate. They munch from the grassy floor picking at the foliage for a tasty snack, fish linger nearby hoping to nibble at any tidbits which may be disturbed during the turtles meal.A long thin pointed gar fish wiggles into view, these dark shiny arrow like fish, pass sleekly through the seaweed without so much as a ripple. Its sharp pointed, tooth filled mouth or bill, pierces the clear surface waters. Our plan today is to head onward as soon as the breeze picks up, we have a 6 hour journey ahead of us and would really appreciate some wind assistance. By 09.30, we were hauling in the anchor and revving our engines, we prefer to arrive at an anchorage as early as possible just to ensure we have a choice of parking spots. With only 7 knots of wind barely tickling our mainsail, we motored the whole 31 n.m, how frustrating. The main helps to stabilise 'Kejstral' during a swell and when the wind is sufficient, it helps us gain a little speed too. Today speed was not in the itinerary, we glide through calm seas and float past other sail less yacht's, an occasional little fluttering of sail jolting us to attention, but nothing, not one gust gives pleasure to our craving. We reach Kalkan at 3.30 pm into the large, fairly sheltered bay, west of the town. Kalkan does offer sailors a small harbour, however, knowing that it is pretty busy with fishing and tourist boats, we opt for the more relaxed and stressfree option. Our chosen spot has a lovely catamaran lounging close in to shore, they fly a French flag which tells us it will be a quiet neighbour. Nearby is a little fleet of gulets, their passengers bob up and down in the surrounding waters, splashing and swimming in the cool blue sea. A few paddle boards skim the surface, rippling the smooth glassy sheen and adding texture to the surroundings. Music fills this secluded spot, bikini clad bodies wiggle in time from the highest deck of one of the gulets. Clapping, the audience give courage and approval for another tune and another performance from the brave, perhaps a little uncoordinated wriggling girls. People watching is so entertaining, some are oblivious to the impression they create, others create that performance solely for entertainment and seem to revel in the thought of an enthralled audience. We relax on board, allowing our anchor to settle and us to hydrate and eat. We watch the antics of our neighbouring vessels, while being grateful for the ability to leave at any time if the noise and music exceed our idea of enjoyment. The sea is cool, our bodies shiver despite the blazing sun as we dip into the aqua sanctuary, for a few blissful moments we are cold until our skin acclimatises to the temperature. We float on the salty, blue green surface allowing ourselves to wallow in this deep clear pleasure, each of us gently treading water until we find ourselves circling around 'Kejstral'. An occasional swimmer head down and determined, approaches our private and personal swimming pool, a nod of head or slight waves indicating their intrusion before they power away in an alternative direction. Most however appear alongside us and with a smile shout hello, in one of a variety of languages, they usually speak and spend a few minutes enquiring about 'Kejstral' and our journey. We happily talk to anyone around, meeting new people is a fabulous part of our enjoyment, so many different people living their own lives and venturing out into the world to see new countries and cultures. The Turkish love to chat and teach people about their way of life, while the French tend not to talk at all to anyone other than French. Germans talk with a need to enforce behaviour and their opinion, and Italians seem to happily fit in to every conversation with almost anyone. The British are a little robust in their greeting, happy to spill all to anyone, we have experienced very different behavioural traits from the people around us and love guessing their nationality through this behaviour. This evening we are going to take Zoe our tender across the bay into Kalkan town, we have visited this pretty, tourist spot before by car and look forward to another glimpse tonight, we also need to find WiFi connection. Having eaten a huge bowl of pasta and cheese sauce, we climb into Zoe for what turned out to be, a forty minute trip across to the harbour. We knew it was quite a distance just didn't expect it to be that far! Zoe's engine coped well ....luckily! The thought of rowing all that way back in the dark played on our minds as we brought her to a little mooring between a few small rowing / fishing boats on the harbour wall. As we clambered up onto the concrete wall, we considered the chance of Zoe being blocked in, as we had probably taken someone elses space. However, we had buzzed around searching for a free spot anywhere else with no joy. Securely tied, Zoe was left to fend for herself, in the busy boat filled corner. We slowly made our way around the horseshoe shaped wall towards the shops and restaurants, fishing boat engines starting up, ready for their working night, unhooking old barnacle and moss covered ropes before powering out. Nets in bright yellow hang perfectly folded over crates, ready for throwing out into the dark moon lit night as the throaty engine splutters it's way out into the open bay. We watch, amazed at the enthusiasm of these men, every day is a repeat of the previous one, yet they seem happy and content despite the poor fishing in these waters, how do they survive on such a meagre catch? We take the main street which follows the waters edge, uphill into the town. A few large well established hotels sit high on the hill above this harbour, they must have an incredible view over these little streets and winding roads, not to mention the actual harbour. The bars along the waterfront invite each passerby with soft plump cushioned sofas and pretty padded chairs. Wooden decking provides a summery feel with a wooden gazebo structure for shade in the sun and to hang lighting in the dark. The lattice work gazebo painted brilliant white, looks stunning with climbing flowering pink and yellow plants entwining each slat, soft romantic lamps subtly light the leaves giving a warm pretty glow. These bars and restaurants take full advantage of this prime position, with extensions stretching out as far as architecturaly possible to capture the fabulous views of this little fishing harbour. Each step we take offers a glimpse of the sea and sunset, waiters call "iyi aksamlar" we call out our good evening reply. Couples sit snugly between flowering planters and huge comfortable seats, tables glitter with silverware and glass, awaiting their guests for a sumptuous meal. Gentle music floats through the air as we wander through these pathways, as gorgeous aromas pass by our noses, tempting as they may be we walk past. Our budget keeps us from sneaking into these beautifully decorated establishments, we are always aware of our limitations and stop only for an occasional drink, we of course envy those who can experience every restaurant and fine dining of their choice. We do however appreciate what we have, and have achieved with our boat and lifestyle and the many amazing experiences along the way. The road winds upwards, meandering through gift and craft shops, clothes and leather goods hang from doorways and man-made hanging rails on each side of us. Fabulous rugs and bedding folded neatly on tables which balance on the cobbled walkway. This traffic free road is lined with quaint buildings, painted brightly in pastels and white. Each doorway and window draws the passerby over for a closer look, fine silks in beautiful colours adorn one while glittering coloured Turkish style lights illuminate another, each with treasures waiting to be wrapped in pretty paper and carried away by another smiling customer. The shop owners sit outside, enjoying the cool evening breeze, some knitting while others share cay, or tea over a game of backgammon. As we amble through this old town we speak to almost every local, all keen to capture your attention and of course a slice of your hard earned money. By the time we reach the upper town we are sticky hot and in need of fluids. The views from high on the hillside are fabulous, lights twinkling all around the bay, voices and clinking glasses give an atmosphere of pleasant enjoyment. We head back down, passing through new cobbled streets until we reach the lower bars, on the waters edge we flop into armchairs, which give in to our weary weight. Our waiter is seconds away with his extensive list of fruity florescent cocktails and sparklers. We opt for beer, refreshingly cold and long, just what we need in this balmy heat. We watch the evening holiday makers totter by on their clippy high heels, clearly unprepared for the cobbled streets ahead! Young couples high on the holiday spirit giggle and dance past in their finery. We could sit for hours enjoying this lovely atmosphere and town, but Zoe is alone and we must head back to 'Kejstral'. Our drinks are finished, we make our way back to Zoe. As we edge closer, the lighting becomes dimmer, the harbour is pretty dark at this end. Fortunately and knowing that it would be a long trip on Zoe, we brought our torch. Just as well really, as when we reached Zoe, we realised that she had been completely blocked in by the local, small boats. Hmm this could take some manoeuvring! Kevin jumped in while we both pushed the other boats to the sides, Zoe was jammed against the wall so tight. Trying hard not to damage anyone's pride and joy, we pushed and pulled boats and ropes until eventually creating a gap just large enough to squeeze her out. I then climbed in whilst still holding the neighbours out of our way, Kevin pushed us bit by bit through the blockage. Gradually we broke free from the tangled traffic jam, and finally the engine could be fired up. We set off back on the twenty minute journey past fishing boats and rocks until we could see 'Kejstral' and our anchor light. The moon was out of sight and all that could be heard was the infrequent chugging of a passing fishing boat, it was quite eerie in pitch blackness travelling on the water, every now and then a light would flicker on, presumably from a fishing boat, a little spooky in this darkness. The gulets nearby 'Kejstral' had sprung to life with music, dancing and laughter all helping to guide us towards our boat. Finally we clambered onboard, for a final glass of homemade wine and sleep. Woke early, excited for our next leg of the journey to Karacaoren, 16 N.m from south east of Fethiye. Firstly, we needed provisions, the supermarket was only a few hundred yards away and we needed bottled water and cold drinks. The boat was ready, we were ready so, on our departure we said goodbye to our friends who were milling around in the pool. We have had a great few days with these guys, hopefully we will meet up again sometime next year. Our ropes were released and we carefully motored past Cygnus 111, out into the large bay of Fethiye, such fabulous scenery on leaving this coastline, small bays, curious inlets and enticing coves, all yearning to be explored, perhaps on our return we will delve deeper into these areas. The wind was feeling particularly generous today, offering a good 20 knots to our happy canvases, the journey heading south east, was unfortunately, in exactly the direction of the wind. We were in no great hurry and with this fabulous powerful breeze, we decided to use the wind and tack as often as we needed, all in a bid to arrive at our anchorage using no engine if possible. There were yacht's everywhere, some with beautifully filled sails, some flapping furiously as they battled to put their vessel in a good windy position. Other slid by with purring engines taking the strain from their lazy captain, they could of course be in a greater hurry than us. Huge cruisers sped past in their wave of frothy wash, spraying foam and waves in our direction, they must spend hundreds of pounds on fuel, for that we smile and wave, I hope their bank manager is sympathetic! We turn 'Kejstral' into their wake, avoiding another rolling episode, our sails lose the wind, therefore we lose power until our bow is eased back to collect that force of nature into the sails. With wind coming on our starboard bow, we ripped through the water at 5.5 knots, healing comfortably we feel the thrill of this natural source of energy. Changing tack as we approach the headland, we pull the sails onto our starboard side, and ease 'Kejstral' gently into the perfect alignment. She accepts the challenge, skimming the slight swell of the seas, our boat creates a beautiful balance of wind and posture, speed and direction. We watch our sailing rivals, and admire their perfect sails while noticing how they flow as one with their surroundings, one day, we may appear this confident and competent. For now we manage to adjust and fine tune our canvases, gaining as much speed from them as we are able, what we hope for ultimately is comfort. Adjustments to the boom and traveller, offer a more stable position, reefing or reducing the sail size will drop the volume of wind, therefore the speed too, each of these techniques allow us to sit without grasping for secure handrails. We could travel faster, however we like a pleasurable journey, not a hair raising experience. After our 4 hour sail, putting in six tacks, we brought 'Kejstral' to a slow and gentle drift The entrance into Karacaoren bay is wide, allowing us time to pull in first the main sail, then our Genoa. With the motor running we edged towards the anchorage, we had a choice, an anchor buoy near the restaurant, or perhaps dropping anchor further out in a sheltered cove. When approaching a new bay, mooring or anchorage, we have learned to motor in, have a good few minutes to assess the area, before coming out again and preparing ourselves for whichever option is suitable. The anchor buoy is usually a good option, it is stable in high winds and we are less likely to swing around too wildly, however, it comes with a price... literally! Dropping anchor, well firstly, having enough anchor chain to hold us firmly in the depth of water we choose, is a consideration, then knowing that the anchor is actually set properly is always a concern. Once secure, we have to be sure that 'Kejstral' will not swing around and hit rocks or other boats. We normally just toss out the anchor, wait until it is trustworthy and swing around happily, but an anchor buoy is our choice in high winds. Today our choice has been removed! A small wooden boat appears alongside our moving vessel......always scary, the guy on board yells " take an anchor buoy", I yell back ( over his very noisy engine) " we don't want to pay for one", he switched off his ear blasting roaring motor and said, " you don't pay, just come for a meal in our restaurant" this can be embarrassing ......"we have food here, can we come just for a drink"? With that he nods and restarts his power, he gestured for me to throw a rope from the bow and he motored towards the buoy. We inched forward, very aware of his battered wooden boat, and it's close proximity to our lovely shiny hull. A few minutes later he had slipped our rope through the buoy and we tied both ends back on to 'Kejstral'. He waved "see you later" revived his noisy engine and thundered back to his restaurant. Feeling very happy with a brilliant day of sailing and a good mooring in this bay, we sat back to enjoy the surroundings. This rugged, rocky bay stretched out towards some additional hidden coves, boat masts could be seen piercing through the vivid blue sky, although the hulls were hidden behind a sharp protruding finger of land. Gulets were tucked into the smallest coves, enjoying the seclusion and quiet afternoon, a steady stream of yacht's slid by the bay entrance no doubt en route to their next mooring. Two small motor boats chugged their passengers towards us from the distant edge of this bay. Dressed in their bright swimsuits the guests pointed and grinned at the fabulous scenery and beautiful clear turquoise waters, with cameras held firmly, they snapped gulets and yacht's, rocks and swimmers. Their little vessel slowing as it approached our yacht, we wave at these excitable holiday makers, a few more snaps clicked from their trusty cameras, before they glided towards the restaurant jetty. The very rickety wooden building stood teetering on the waters edge, ten or more posts wedged firmly into the stone beach supported it's two story weight. The lower floor resembled a small workshop and boatyard, various engine parts stood in a layer of dusty sandy grime. Kayaks and canoes leaned dangerously against the wood panelled walls, perhaps adding to the support of this ramshackle establishment. A couple of wobbling tree branches compiled the jetties, jutting out into the sparkling sea, these structures look tired and untrustworthy, yet have probably been used daily over years gone by. We watch the visiting boats tie up and send their passengers out onto these wooden walkways, almost holding our breath, we wait for a trip, fall or worse a splash to resonate around the bay, but nothing. Each of the guests alight, all limbs intact, no one missing or injured, still smiling and clicking snaps for those valuable life long memories. We eat on board watching the constant stream of visitors capture their images and video of this pretty place, each passing boat sending 'Kejstral' bouncing on their waves and wake. As the heat subsides with the dwindling light, we climb into Zoe our tender, and head across to the restaurant. As we approach the jetty we spot a good metal cleat for our boat, I slip the rope around and climb out onto this undulating walkway, even on this relatively calm sea, we roll and sway. The stone beach area gives no clue as to an entrance or steps up into the floor above, we should have taken more notice of where every other visitor headed! We stumbled over oars and rope in the dimming light, just missing the wooden beams above, as we duck under a lower section of roof. Nets tangle in our uncovered toes as we trip and falter through the boaty storage, cobwebs tickle as we brush through the untouched collection of fishing goods, until we see the steps. Muffled voices, light Greek music and the scuffle of feet on wood, led us to the dining area. Four tables heavily laden with both food and diners greeted us as we stepped onto the boarded floor, the view from this open wood balcony was lovely. 'Kejstral' to the left, the bay entrance in the centre and some small, very elegant gulets on the right, each dwindling into shadowy silhouettes with the dusky sky. We took our seats lining the balcony edge, catching the waiter for our drink, they nodded in recognition of our order between dashing back and forth with full dishes and empty crockery, wine bottles and glasses. Each table tackled their mountain of culinary delights over laughter and chatter, whilst gazing at the changing skies between mouthfuls of food. Empty plates convey contentment, while creating a signal for waiting staff to suggest yet another delicious offering, what a busy hardworking family who cleary know their clientele. During the evening an older Turkish man trundled into the dining room pushing what appeared to be a heavily smoking wheelbarrow, the foggy offering billowed around us yet no odour or aroma could be sensed, he carried on walking through pushing this obscure, misty substance, then disappeared through another door . Everyone stopped midsentence, mid chew and mid breath, how bizarre. Apparently, it was a mosquito repellent, completely harmless to humans and animals, just not sure how he managed to get the wheel barrow upstairs one side, then down the other! Our drinks were gone, our bill was paid and our evening complete, well .... almost, just need to get back to Zoe somehow, then board 'Kejstral' for sleep. This morning we will be moving our boats into the Yacht Classic Marina in Fethiye, there is a small pontoon set aside for transient boats, there we can stay for a few nights if we need to. The plan is to stay one night in here where we are allowed to use the facilities, as long as we pay for our mooring. The exciting part is that if we also have an evening meal in the marina, the pontoon fee is so much cheaper! Mark and Angelina took Cygnus 111 in first, they have stayed here on a previous occasion and are familiar with the place. They picked up anchor and slowly motored towards the moorings, there were no staff milling around to guide them to a spot, in fact there were very few people there at all! After a few drive bys, they spotted the area that housed them previously so headed there. As soon as they began reversing into the space a few helping hands appeared to assist them, fortunately they were then secured nicely, and ready to help us into our spot next door. I lifted our anchor and Kevin manoeuvred 'Kejstral' round, easing her gently into position, within minutes we were stern to, secure and ready for a day of fun. Together, we decided to visit the well known Tuesday Fethiye market, having been to plenty of these over the last few years, we were still happy to experience this one with our friends. We left 'Kejstral' to fend for herself whilst we all wandered into town, following that same road from the evening before. Once in town we caught a local bus or Dolmus, which carried us through the older more business end of Fethiye. A familiar looking lady boarded and sat nearby, I realised it was our Austrian neighbour from the pontoon in Tomb bay! She recognised us instantly, her husband was on board their boat repairing something, while she took a few hours to come ashore for provisions. We disembarked together then took our separate paths to enjoy the sights and sounds of the local farmers market. Passing some small hardware shops with goods piled high beside us, we picked our way through buckets and tins of paint which lined our pathway, accidentally nudging the high step ladders causing them to vibrate noisily against the stone wall. Each step took us closer to the noisy venders shouting their 'best price' to whoever was listening, loud voices calling us over to sample their colourful stalls. We smile and shake our heads, declining their no doubt tasty selection of fresh fruit and vegetables. Each makeshift table, was filled with beautiful plump, juicy foods ready to be snapped up and cooked into some delicious meal. Huge lettuce sprawled over the bright orange carrots and beefy red tomatoes, beetroot sat in piles still with purple and green leaves attached, everything looked so fresh, still dirty from the fields and gardens, yet free from sprays and pesticides. Food from the market tends to have a better flavour than the mass produced fruit and vegetables which we are accustomed to in the UK. The tastes are stronger and more pronounced, what we have previously experienced seems, watered down, weak and even tastless at times. We wander through the shaded stalls in an attempt to hide from the fiercely hot sun, sticky from the hot bustling market with crowds of people. Teas of all flavours are offered to our dry mouths, we gratefully quench our thirst with the fruity drinks, apple tea is a common Turkish drink. From fine granules this sharp apple flavour tingles our tastebuds, box upon box of this great alternative tea are sold each day, especially to the tourists, I find my lira to purchase my own little box full. Nuts and seeds of amazing varieties fill stalls, little bowls are filled with selections, enticing us to try. A sesame and honey coating draw us to this sweet, probably extremely fattening, sample, we all have a taste. Our eyes light up with the delicious combination offered, we leave, each clutching a bag of goodies, happy with our find. The pathway takes us through into the linen and clothing stalls, in here we experience the more lively sellers, they are heavily armed with quips and wise cracks, these vendors are on a mission to sell, and do their upmost to cajole us into spending our holiday cash. Some use unfortunate phrases gleaned from previous tourists, which, perhaps would steer a potential customer in the opposite direction. Other stall holders rely on a friendly nature and welcome smile to attract that vital custom. We quicken our step until the smell of lunch draws us to the cafe and snack stalls, we linger over each choice, hoping to find a tasty bite. Eventually we settle on a traditional gozleme, a savoury pancake filled with potato, cheese and spinach. We melt onto stools in some shade, relieved to be free from the burning sun, water is served generously, for which we are grateful while our body temperature dips below boiling. Our table overlooks a slow flowing river, huge bushy trees overhang each side, and on the opposite shore is the local farmers stalls with a white wooden footbridge adjoining the two. The stalls are busy, with such good quality produce, they have thriving businesses, it is a great sight to see. Lots of European towns have these local markets, they are a tribute to the work carried out by families living and working here, something that in the UK, we sadly seem to be losing to the large Supermarket culture. The floury pancakes are beautifully cooked, a crispy crunchy outer edge, with a yummy combination of flavours within. Heads nod and our eyes meet, as we chew in appreciation of this perfect snack, not a crumb is left and we are full. As we finish our meal and consider our journey back to our boats, we wearily stumble from our stools, when someone points towards a furry item drifting downstream, we stare trying to fathom it's origin when we realise that we are watching a rather deceased cat floating past, how sad, this poor soggy moggy had ended life here, adrift alone. We have endured this heat too long, we make our way towards the Dolmus where we travel back to the marina. Siesta time, we all have the same idea, a snooze then a delightful swim in the gorgeous swimming pool in the marina complex, before we toast ourselves dry on the poolside sunbeds. The water is a fabulous temperature, just cool enough to refresh without causing a shiver, blue tiled steps lead down into this sanctuary, with only two other guests making use of this facility, it is tranquil. There is another pool nearby, it is labeled 'family pool', red and blue inflatable balls fly across its diameter, followed closely by two boisterous children. In their native tongue they yell across the expanse of this not so tranquil area, encouraging our 'adult only ' choice.Feeling refreshed we roam the slate tiled walkways past white painted wooden planters, each filled with healthy shrubs and pretty flowers. The restaurant sits opposite the marina pontoon, perfectly situated for boat owners and people watchers. Next to the restaurant is the circular pool bar that we enjoyed last evening, our friends are seated already sampling the local beer, we ought to help them in their task. For hours we chatter and learn more of the lives of these lovely friends, a few more beer adding depth and laughter to our stories and experiences. The restaurant are expecting our presence at 8pm, until then we locate and make use of the superb showers and facilities nearby. Having spent so long squashing into a boat shower cubicle with minimal manoeuvrability, we luxuriate in the grey, marble tiled rooms designed just for one person! The powerful shower is second to none, on board we limit our water to a rinse, then switch off, soapy sponge clean, then a quick rinse off again, we waste none. This is heaven, standing under the flowing needle sharp jets is fabulous, indulging I stand too long in here, other guests are waiting! Hairdryer and plug sockets, wow, this is exciting, I haven't used a dryer since leaving home, I hadn't realised just how reliant I have become on free flowing electricity, let alone water. As I complete my ablutions Angelina appears with a huge smile, "they have normal toilets...you just press and flush, it's amazing, I didn't have to pump the handle once" ( clearly she has been a boatee too long!) Jude joins our conversation a little confused by our excitement, me with the flowing water and Angelina with the loo!
At 8pm we are gathered around an elegantly decorated dining table, just a few feet from the waters edge. The sun slowly dropping from view beyond the darkening mountains, leaving a golden glow over the shimmering almost calm sea. Our waiting staff dip in and out discreetly laying plates of meze starter, mixed vegetables and yogurts with spices and tangs to surprise the palat, served with slices. of delicious fresh bread. We taste a wine from their selection which enhances the food being served, our main meal is sumptuous, a fantastic offering. Our overnight stay on the mooring, at 60 tl (£15 ) our meal which was perfect, for two 94tl (£25) and a few drinks throughout the day 60 tl. (£15) Totalling £55 for this stunning location and facilities, what a bargain! Throughout the meal, we reflect on today's experience in the market and our great sail yesterday. We will be leaving our friends in the morning to move onto our next anchorage, they have been great, making this leg of our journey lots of fun, so thank you guys we hope to meet you all again. Woke early excited for our sail with Cygnus 111 The sun glinting through our cabin hatch startled us awake, kettle on, suitable clothing adorned and out to see what the day has planned for us. At 07.00 hours, nothing exciting is happening yet, the restaurant staff can be seen cleaning and tidying from the previous night's meal. A delicious smell of fresh bread wafts our way, there is no aroma like it. Birds glide overhead singing loudly and slowly the bay comes alive. We have arranged to leave around 10.00 for our sail to Fethiye, Cygnus 111 is moored in the bay nearby, as they pull up their anchor we will untie and leave with them. First however, we need breakfast, so I wander along following that gorgeous smell of crispy soft centred bread. As I step from the pontoon onto land, the brown energetic bouncy dog from yesterday's entertainment, bounds past. His poor owner is stumbling along behind in his flip flops, clearly not wishing to be dragged so unceremoniously for his bread! We smile hello as he is dragged out of sight into the shrubbery to wherever his pup wishes to go. I on the other hand, saunter towards the bread oven where I am met by a lady dressed in trousers and long sleeved blouse. She is working hard beside this huge stone, flame filled cooker, in this baking heat. She must be exhausted, loaves stand in piles, fresh and crispy alongside large wooden spatulas with well kneaded dough placed in floury rows ready for baking. Obviously they sell a lot, a stream of buyers wander to her workshop throughout the morning, many purchase two or three loaves at a time. This bread is baked, free from preservatives therefore must really be consumed on the day of purchase, tomorrow any leftovers are fed to the birds and fish. The cost of bread here is very cheap 1 tl or 25 pence, therefore it is eaten with virtually every meal, and it is amazing when freshly cooked. We eat our morning meal, catching the sights and sounds of other boatees waking and unfolding themselves from slumber. Gradually the day is starting, belongings are packed ready for another journey, boats are swilled down, ropes are re wound and placed ready for travelling. We wash up and store all mobile items, although the bay is calm and the predicted weather is light winds, we take no chances. Cupboards are closed, hatches shut and sea cocks turned off. At around 10.00 we see Cygnus 111 pull up anchor, we unhitch the lazy line and undo the stern lines, we are off. We motor out from our pontoon until free from obstruction then as soon as some wind tickles the flag, we pull out the main sail. With only 5 knots of wind, we won't be turning our engine off just yet! Cygnus 111 follows slowly, they have been showing their guests the ropes ( literally), therefore they are lagging behind. Soon their speed increases and we are sailing together on this gentle breeze. The Genoa is unfurled as the wind accelerates to 10 knots, we are trying to stay ahead of our sailing buddies! They zip past, pulling closer to the island on their starboard side, they gain speed as the wind changes direction when blowing over the land. Dam, I wish we had thought of that! Then Cygnus veers across our bow, a strange manoeuvre as our direction is straight towards Fethiye. A glance through the binoculars explains their sudden movement, Paul, their guest was steering, he has never been in charge of one of these fickle beasts before. For the next few miles we stay behind the zig zagging Cygnus, watching them gradually gain control and eventually follow course. We on the other hand were trying our best to increase speed, tweaking here, fiddling there with little impact. We did sail alongside them on a few occasions, Mark and Angelina have been sailing for many more years than ourselves and obviously have fathomed out their own boat and techniques to compensate for low wind speed! It was a lovely smooth, calm sail 13.4 n.m taking 2.5 hours. Fethiye is a large town, the main open bay is filled with trip boats ferrying tourists to picturesque bays and coves for swimming and diving. Jet skis zip past spraying a plume of white froth behind them, and leaving a wake which bounces our little 'Kejstral' all over the place. Larger gulets linger on anchor closer to shore, their crew busily cleaning ready for future guests. The anchorage we head for is tucked into the southern curve of the bay, a good sheltered spot next to a Marina. The anchorage is not the prettiest area of town but, we had a plan! Mark and Angelina had been here before, had an internet password for the marina and, we all plan to moor in this marina the following day. Our anchor sat firmly in 11 meters of thick mud, really great holding. A huge boatyard could be seen a few hundred yards away, a wooden gulet perched on tall stilts, in the construction stages of building, what a fabulous looking vessel built in a very traditional way. Around us swaying in the slight swell were small yacht's, a large quite old cruiser and a few gulets, pretty quiet for mid summer really. The afternoon was spent snoozing having eaten lunch, as in the evening we had arranged to head over to the marina, leave the tenders and walk into Fethiye town. At 6pm we all boarded our tenders, then took off into the marina. Yacht Classic Marina and Hotel, is on the south side of Fethiye and it looked amazing. We found a spot inside where the staff very kindly allowed us to leave our little boats, having explained that we would like to reserve two spaces for our boats the following day. Our friends had visited this great place before and recognised a good deal which is why we ended up here. Our tenders were secured and we stayed in the marina for drinks before heading into town. Jude, Paul, Mark, Angelina, Kevin and I, parked ourselves around a very lovely round pool bar, high stools on which we perched gave us a fabulous view of the turquoise pool, white washed buildings and beautiful marina in front of us, what a stunning well kept resort. Rooms resembling haciendas rested on a raised platform above the pool, overlooking the ocean and marina, they would have a fabulous view from their balcony. We took our time over drinks absorbing this lovey place and looked forward to our overnight stay in the marina tomorrow. The road into town took only 10 minutes to amble, we sauntered past mini markets, noting the larger supermarket for provisions in a few days. Soon bars and small restaurants came into view, bringing us onto the promenade. The sun still pounded our skin, despite the hour, the heat held within each concrete building and pavement acted like a night storage heater. The sun dipping further into the huge sea, still persisted in making us perspire, we persevered on through towards a more densely populated area. Market stalls filled our path, beautifully handmade carpets and rugs pegged up high on old stone walls, gold coloured bongs with bright liquids inside lined the outside of bars and stores. High piles of linen in vibrant tones filled wooden trestle tables, vendors called out to our intrigued faces, if only we could buy these glorious gifts and wares. We sneak past the most vocal, turn away from the gaze of the expectant sellers and sidestep the pavements assault course. Huge flags in Patriotic red, flutter and dance in this evening breeze we gaze up in awe at this wonderful sight, while locals look back at us from their chairs in high balconies above. They must watch this same spectacle every evening as shoppers seep out from their hotels, having tanned and dipped all day long. Tourists eager to spend their hard earned cash whilst enjoying this amazing holiday atmosphere. We find a local Turkish restaurant, not too expensive and not too shabby, as we approach seats are pulled our for us to rest our weary, thirsty selves onto. Within minutes, jugs of fresh water are poured and we drink, ready now to be fed. These restaurants are brilliant, they serve a buffet style menu, you chose from the counter and they bring your chosen food to the table. Huge silver dishes with shiny round lids fill the counter, as the lids are lifted the most sumptuous smells erupt from them, chicken cooked tenderly in a tasty tomato, garlic and vegetable casserole. Green beans soaked until they slightly snap at your bite, then cooked in a gorgeous tomato sauce. This is served with bulgur wheat mixed with vegetables and coated with a delicious gravy. An amazing array of dishes to sample traditional cooking, and all at brilliant prices, what an experience for any visitors. We steer away from fancy expensive eateries and aim for the busy local clean restaurants, for a real flavour of Turkey. Our meal with a beer each, for six people came to around 170 tl or £43 for 6 people! Once our taste buds had been tantalised and tummies filled, we wandered through the throngs of holidaymakers attempting to bartar with the prices, some had a good technique, others had a vague try but most walked away with a purchase none the less.
As the evening drew to a close, we took the road back to where our little tenders had been abandoned, another perfect day in this journey of a lifetime. |
Sailing Kejstral AdventuresRetired and following our dream of sailing around the world Archives
April 2019
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