Today, we travel back towards Kas, we must begin our journey towards home as time is running out, it will take us perhaps another week to get back to Akbuk from here. We collected Lee for a short trip ashore in order to gather provisions, Larry had been feeling unwell therefore stayed on board. This lovely town engaged us once again with its burst of enthusiasm, we gazed at fabulous materials swinging from stalls, vivid pinks and blues flapping in the light breeze. A well stocked market store with goods stacked high to its rafters, provided almost everything we could possibly need. Fruit and vegetable stalls ripe with healthy goods, forfilled our last requirements, bags loaded, arms heavily laden we wander back to our tender. It would be rude not to have a drink with Lee before we part company and head in opposite directions. They will follow this coastline a little further east, while we backtrack in a westerly heading. Our beer is thoroughly enjoyed, however tinged with a touch of sadness as we say goodbye to this lovely fun couple, we have said we will meet up again nearer our home in Akbuk. We do realise that this may not happen as Lee & Larry have so much to see and only so long to enjoy this beautiful country, before they must fly to their home in New Zealand. Our goodbyes said, we make our way back to 'Kejstral' ready to pack and set sail. We stow our provisions and pack our possessions before grabbing a quite bite of lunch. Our destination is 18 n.ms away in a bay near Kas called Nuri bay, the pilot book suggests a "tranquil setting only accessible by boat" our idea of heaven. Kevin starts the engine while I take the anchor up, within minutes we are waving to our friends and maneovering our boat between the red and green buoys which highlight this rocky shallow entrance to Ocagiz. Out into the shimmering sea where the swell pushes itself into our path, we unfurl the Genoa into its favourite shape which delights us with a speedy response. The main sail is freed which helps to stabilise our hull, as the wind is coming from a westerly direction which is typically where we want to head, our position is adjusted to allow a close reach and a happy sail. The swell seemed to gather momentum forcing against our beam, which unfortunately begins to drop our speed. With careful tweaking our vessel is carried onwards yet not sufficiently to compensate for this robust swell. Tacking four or five times, we eventually bring 'Kejstral' into a perfect position which will carry us at a reasonable speed of 5 knots, despite the sea and it's lively nature. With around 23 knots of wind to propel us, we arrive in Nuri bay 3.5 hours later, and what a great place. As we turn into the bay entrance the wind now sheltered by this land, we ease our sails and drop speed giving us an opportunity to survey the area before deciding where to anchor. There are two bays on our starboard side and Kas harbour about a mile away on the port side. Clear turquoise waters lie in front of these very quaint bays, the first housing a few fishing boats with small cruisers swinging on anchors in shallow areas. Three stone buildings sit comfortably on the grassy shore looking out at this glorious setting, idyllic little homes that we would ache to own. The second bay is home to a small campsite with its restaurant and a few guest rooms adjoining. Three little ferries are tied to a long silvery grey wooden jetty, at the other end sit a couple of yachts similar in size to ours. There is space for us, but only just enough for a careful manoeuvre as long as we all breath in! Another yacht is tied stern to the rocks nearby, we wondered if the captain was waiting for a space to be available on the jetty. Should we just grab this little spot or tie stern to as well? Ok so, sorry other yacht, but we are going for the space........ As we came closer to find a willing participant on the jetty, one of the little ferries was encouraged by the restaurant worker to move, perfect. The same man shouted that he had a lazy line for us, which means we needn't drop our anchor, how convenient is that? As Kevin brought us into the, now improved space, I gathered the helpful lazy line and secured our bow. Stern lines now tied, we thanked our helping hand and gazed at this fantastic little haven. What a perfectly set up establishment situated in a high rocky cove, no wonder it is only manageable by water, as is the idyllic bay next door. Five minutes later the yacht that had tied stern to by the rocks, appears right next to us, clearly happy to have a spot on this jetty, so I guess he was waiting after all, he just hadn't made a clear attempt which would have been noticed by the waiting restaurant worker. We relax on board absorbing this fabulous little spot, electric available on the jetty, always a good point, hoses nearby for washing and tanks with the added benefit of wi-fi accessible from our comfy cockpit seat, what more could we ask for? Only a few lazy footsteps to our right is the jetty end and a slippery ladder into the most perfect water, from this vantage point we watched some kayaks meandering through the rocky contours of this bay, a perfectly clear sea, aids their leisurely progress across towards shore. Sunbeds lay littered with bronzed bodies toasting gently, towels strewn over unoccupied recliners, the kayaks trickle across a rope barrier, dodging a few families who splash wildly and noisily nearby. The restaurant in front of our mooring is preparing for the evening meal, crisp napkins stand to attention within their protective holders, shiny silver ware chinks against gleaming white plates. The waiting staff methodically line up each setting with precision and care while chattering non stop and barely acknowledging their workload. It is hard to envisage a busy establishment in this remote bay, where is the custom likely to come from?
We of course must enjoy at least a drink here, perhaps even food if it looks reasonably priced. When we saunter the few yards to our icy cold beer we are greeted by the very friendly staff who offer drinks, nibbles and a menu to survey before we even find a seat, what lovely people who really appreciate the cruising yachting community. As we sit idly on white painted chairs at the edge of the wooden decking, we begin to realise how this little place makes their living. Small ferry boats begin to pull up alongside the jetty, the initial few containing only one or two visitors, then gradually from the nearby town of Kas, ten or so people at a time step from these numerous colourful boats. Within a few hours the restaurant was a bustling, delicious smelling, staff filled eatery, we just had to stay and eat. The food was amazing, fresh fish, steaks and burger filled plates glide by our hungry taste buds, warm bread with oil and balsamic vinegar are set down before us. Divine, we are then treated to the most fabulous chicken fajitas ever, sizzling hot, warm wraps and crunchy salad, we are in heaven! The atmosphere is brilliant, light music, hoards of happy people, perfect food and fabulous company to end another day in our travels around this Turkish coastline.
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Sailing Kejstral AdventuresRetired and following our dream of sailing around the world Archives
April 2019
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