Kekova bay is the site of villages dating back to the Lycian and Byzantine era, which has since been protected by the Turkish ministry of environment and forests since 1990. This area has prohibited divers, swimmers and coastal fishing since that date which has created a picturesque landscape filled with the beauty of nature, turquoise waters and patches of vivid green forest. The occupant's of this ancient site apparently committed suicide by fire and their sarcophagus are dotted all over the area, but if they all perished...who built the sarcophagus? Further reading saw that this same village was abandoned following an Arab invasion around the 19th century. Today we investigate the site for ourselves. Once in the tender Lee, Larry and ourselves chugged happily towards the wobbling jetty and nearby beach, we scrambled onto land and secured the tender onto the old, well weathered wooden jetty. Two little restaurants made their living from this sheltered lovely bay, the less inhabited looking building is where we are able to have water for our boats, whereas the building to the right seemed a little more inviting. In order to reach the ancient site we must go through one of the restaurant gardens! On our arrival a sombre faced, large bodied man emerged asking if we would like refreshments, in Turkish we explained our plan to go walking then perhaps on our return we may have drinks in his restaurant. Nodding in acceptance, he led us to where the garden met out trail. His gate snapped firmly closed behind us where we found ourselves in a wide open, almost barren field. Orange speckled butterflies danced past us in their search for yellow headed flowers among the dried crisp grasses. Bees noisily buzzed between our sticky bodies as we trudged across this expanse of open sun beaten ground. Twigs snapped while leaves crackled as our footsteps picked through the prickles and rocks until we reached the entrance to a tumbled down looking farm. The gate creaked open inch by inch, rust engulfing each hinge which looked as if they might snap at any second. Scrawny chickens pecked around us, scratching for scraps of grain, bright feathered cockerels complained loudly at our intrusion, while a few multi coloured goats nudged at their wooden enclosure in a useless bid for freedom. A few small tents were carefully positioned under luxuriously shady trees, an old water tap idily dripped onto the dry sun charred soil below. Not a soul to be seen, yet sufficient evidence of a well used camping and farming establishment surrounds us. Birds sit high on the tiniest of branches at the peak of the leafy tall trees, they watch our every move, chirping happily whilst no doubt highlighting our presence to their feathery friends. Deserted farm buildings sprawl over this landscape, some in ruins, held together only by the strongest of stone walls, roofs long gone lay in pieces inside and sprinkles of terracotta tile nestle among the overgrown weeds outside. Window openings allow nesting birds to set up home, squatters languishing in these abandoned buildings. Ancient yellow sandstone walls disguised with wild ivy and crispy twigs sit precariously on the waters edge, beautifully shaped keystone's and lintels sit gracefully on the arched entrance ways leading us through into yet another little parcel of yesteryear and foliage. We pick our way through this mesmerising hillside which meanders around the waters edge, stepping over these tumbled down building blocks and tree roots we are faced with the most amazing site. Sarcophagus are left scattered across the tiered hillsides many showing signs of damage and disturbance, other ancient coffins stand proudly with beautifully sculptured stone lids bearing unrecognisable inscriptions from an era long gone. These burial grounds hold so much history of the lives and culture within this country, stories of devastating war, life changing earthquakes, all consuming plagues and horrendous tragedy. As we stroll past broken caskets and crumbling stone our minds are filled with, who's, why's and when's, if only these artifacts could give us more insight into this turbulent era. Stepping beyond this site, we are drawn to an old grey stone house balancing on the tip of a small peninsula, an artist's dream to paint or capture on film. Situated perfectly on a pebbly headland, with a small fishing jetty and wooden boat tied alongside, this captivating home in this picturesque setting is just heavenly. Blue painted shutters protect its dwellers from the dazzling summer sun, while a hearty thick stone exterior minimises the harsh cold winds of winter. It's outlook is filled with the fabulous historical site and the little tranquil bay beyond where the fishermen can watch their lines and nets safely. This bay opposes the one we are securely anchored within. It is known to be particularly lively in a westerly wind, and the more sheltered inlet is much too shallow for yacht's, therefore not a good anchorage for us. The sun began to take its toll on our weary bodies, despite our bottled water we struggled. The heat is overpowering draining what little stores of energy we had, which encouraged us to head back. Again we marveled at the surroundings, with just a little less vigour, tired limbs took us through those old walls and tombs until we untied the farm/ campsite gate. Carefully stepping around the various poultry, we ambled lazily onwards until we met a couple of sailing friends of Lee and Larry. Marietjie and Archie from South Africa had anchored near us and had that same wish to experience this lovely site. After a chat we continued our walk until we finally reached the two restaurants near 'Kejstral'. Of course by this time we had become particularly parched therefore, our earlier conversation with the rather unhappy looking owner, meant we must stop at his establishment for refreshments. Icy cold beer and a bench, what more could we possibly need! Our boats swung lazily around their respective anchors, moving aimlessly with the gentle current, their flags barely tickled by the odd puff of breeze created from other passing boats. We gaze out over this quiet bay watching swallows skim the treetops, dipping down for a tasty fast food snack onto the dry crunchy grass below. The beer consumed, our weary feet rested, therefore time to head back on board for lunch and a siesta, it is pretty hard coping with continuous heat and a breezless atmosphere. Marietjie and Archie ( the couple from South Africa ) were anchored behind 'Kejstral', and having decided to go for our evening meal to one of the restaurants, we climbed into Zoe our tender and motored over to ask them to join Lee, Larry and ourselves for dinner that evening. For a few hours we read, dozed and slip down into the cool calm water for respite from that burning sun, fish follow our gentle movements as we wrinkle the glassy waters. We don our snorkels and investigate our surroundings, a grassy, sandy seabed holds little shoals of inquisitive white stripy fish, they nibble at the sand before darting swiftly away into the distance on our approach. A couple of sea bass wind and weave their way through the longer foliage, their behaviour signals to us, we have invaded their territory, but they stay proudly protecting and circling their home ground as we glide past. Small brown crabs side step their way over an uneven pebbly patch, their pincers snipping the water with each faltering wobbling step. Their beady eyes catch our movements, they freeze in posture as we agitate the water overhead, once past and bearing no threat to them, their little white legs carry them onwards on their journey across this endless seabed. We drip dry on the deck, allowing the hot sun to evaporate the salty water, our skin tingles as the fine hairs dry leaving a crispy salty residue behind. Our attention is drawn to a visiting yacht, her white hull shines brightly against the deep blue water, she is traveling quickly on this increasingly windy afternoon. Although there is around 12 knots of wind, this yacht appears to be skillfully titrating her sails to achieve a great speed. Her captain moves in for a sharp tack bringing the vessel across this bay beautifully, surprisingly cutting slickly between the already anchored yacht's. As she reached the shallow waters to our left, yet another tack was initiated, what an awesome sight, this captain and crew have obviously carried out these maneouvers many times. Again a skillful change of course brings them snugly between a sleepy flotilla of resting boats. Another tack brought them closer to us, we waved a greeting as did each of our neighbours, by this point every stationary vessel had caught sight of this amazing sail. An audience of probably twelve boatees watched with baited breath as this vessel and crew brought in their sails whilst gently gliding to a perfect mooring alongside the wobbliest jetty in the world! Even a round of applause erupted from their audience as they brought their yacht to an adept landing, what an achievement! At six pm, we all piled into the 'sullen faced, large man's' restaurant, two other wooden tables lay near our dining space both filled with English charter yacht captains and crew. One of which held that magnificent team of sailing experts, they enjoyed a congratulatory, ego bursting few minutes as we all threw compliments at their skillful display that afternoon. Soon the atmosphere grew warm with comfortable chatter, light background music and great food. Our neighbours became new friends, and our collective stories of pristine bays, fabulous new villages and amazing experiences, gave us all a burst of inspiration for our future journeys. The tables of holiday guests nearby clearly eager for snippets of perfect anchorages and well priced harbours, joined our conversations. Advice was sought of the local traditions and customs surrounding this unique country, tip and hints were passed around while mental notes were made of facilities and provisions, all of us willing to share valuable information to our fellow sailors. What an eclectic mix of people, from a fantastic range of places, South Africa, New Zealand, us from Turkey and the British group, all travelling around this stunning coastline enjoying this tranquil lifestyle. We have certainly met some lovely people on our journey so far.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
Sailing Kejstral AdventuresRetired and following our dream of sailing around the world Archives
April 2019
Categories |