We left Trizonia knowing we would motor all the way, wind was non existent and the sea glassy calm. Our chart plotter was indicating that Kejstral was travelling across the land, therefore the area is clearly not mapped correctly, fortunately we also have navionics, (a programme for our tablets) which confirmed that we were in fact afloat luckily! Today we will travel under the world's longest, fully suspended, multi span, cable stayed bridge. The Rion bridge, otherwise known as the Rio-Antirrio Bridge, it crosses the Gulf of Corinth from north to south (and south to north) At 2880 metres in length it carries it's travellers from mainland Greece to the Peloponnese peninsula. In 2004, the Athens Olympic games torch bearers, were the first to cross this iconic structure one week prior to the official Olympic games opening ceremony. At a cost of €630 million, the bridge has had its fair share of difficulties with the construction and architecture. Seismic activity in this particular area due to underground faults, mean that the loose sediment surface of the seabed is disturbed frequently. During an earthquake or significant tremor, the four pylons or towers are able to move laterally, sending the impact into the gritty gravel seabed, minimising movement within the actual bridge. High land banks on either side of the Corinth gulf add to the wind tunnel effect through this passage, winds have been known to escalate to around 70 miles per hour. Today however, there is barely a breeze and our engine is purring nicely. Prior to our arrival, 5 miles from the bridge, we radio the control tower with our request to travel through. They take details of boat name, length and height from water line to tip of mast, obviously they wouldn't want any accidental damage to either their bridge, our boat and/ or to the very frequent ferries zooming from one side across to the other. The control tower then indicate exactly where you will pass according to the size and shape of the vessel. As we near this enormous structure, at one mile from its massive pylons, we must radio once again to clarify our intention and for them to gauge our speed from the 5 mile mark. We are asked to take the third pylon from the right, first pylon from the left, staying close to the second pylon to the left. This may sound understandable, until you are listening to a somewhat crackly voice with a very Greek accent yet pretty good English! Fortunately we had drawn a little diagram before the event for us to 'picture' these instructions. In addition to this information, we must hold our position at 1 mile out, until there was sufficient gap between ferries, no pressure at all to get this right! Before long we had our radio message to allow our transit, moving forward towards this awesome sight was amazing, with this feat of engineering towering above our heads this bridge is beautiful. Initial work began here in 1998 with the dredging of the gulf, 4 pylons took shape around 2000 and finally completed by 2003. Traffic decks were then added and by 2004 the final walkways and guard rails had been added. In 2005 one of the cable links on M1 pylon (south side) snapped, it closed the bridge to traffic and the cause, a lightening strike creating a fire at the uppermost point of the pylon. Since then traffic has flowed both under and over this structure without any further issues. Once through the bridge, we travel onwards towards the town of Missolonghi 21 n.m west of the bridge. Again the breeze was almost non existent, 38 n.m and all 8 hours to Missolonghi, on the engine. At the approach to this town our maps show large areas of sandbank, miles of them. In order to reach the quay, we must navigate the narrow passage through, which is of course clearly marked on our chart plotter. The water is turquoise and clear, turtles swim close to us, dipping and diving out of sight as Kejstral skims their habitat. Marker buoys depicting the entrance into this channel can be clearly seen from all directions, obviously important enough to scare us into following their course. Beds of reeds and shrubbery line our port side, marking the route, on the other, random patches of sandbank stand proud of the sea surface. The sandbanks became slightly larger and more obvious as we follow our course, colourful wooden beach dwellings stand just above the waterline on stilts, little fishing boats tied loosely onto their protruding pontoon decks. Fishermen and women pass on our starboard side chugging confidently past us in their wooden motor boats, these shallow sandy waters posing no problems to their flat bottomed vessels. A mile or so into the channel the water opens out once again into a small busy bay, the sandy seabed is still an issue, keeping enough depth below our 1.7 metre keel was a pretty frightening challenge. On the west side of the bay is a small marina, to the east is a town quay, not the prettiest area we have been to. We debated as to our best option for mooring on the quay as yachts were tied alongside and stern to, eventually it was decided that going alongside would be the best plan. This can be a stressful last minute decision, based on wind direction, space and depth. Kevin manipulates Kejstral into position, while I run around tying fenders and addressing the ropes ready for our mooring. Should the plan change from alongside to a stern to position, I must change everything around, the tender, fenders, ropes and anchor set up. Not easy to do speedily, always better if a plan can be made prior to the parking! On occasions the plan changes at the last minute, therefore having space to readjust boat position and having plenty of time for the ropes, tender, fenders and anchor jobs is essential. By the time we moor, we are usually exhausted mentally and physically, beer time! We are happy with the parking, Kejstral is locked and we are feeling relieved, we head to the bar a few hundred yards away. We have been warned that the area is known for theft on yachts, therefore, all is secured properly. This is an unusual issue, most quayside and harbours are known to be reasonably safe, we take no chances. The quayside seems a little unkempt and uninspiring, however the bar is nice with friendly staff. We watch another yacht pull in and maneuver into position just in front of Kejstral, their flag was Belgian. We watched their slick well oiled and clearly experienced skills until they finally tied up, just at that point we noticed the Port authority man wander to their vessel. After a few moments of chatting, they then strolled towards Kejstral with a notepad, jotting down our boat name and flag, within seconds they were gone. The guys from Belgium also came into the bar, Kevin thought he ought to ask what was discussed and did we need to go to the port office. After a chat, we discovered that each boat must pay a small fee for mooring which is quite a natural occurrence. So, following our drink Kevin and I took a walk around to find the harbour man, unfortunately we couldn't find any office other than the Port Police. They will know where the harbour man hangs out, we should just ask them.......... bad idea! As we stepped inside this rather busy office building, we were immediately pounced upon, in an official but intimidating way. When asking for the harbour office, we were asked for our boat papers, this again is a normal occurrence. Unfortunately on showing our documents, one of the officers noticed that our Greek transit log was the old version. This year a new dekpa or transit log has been rolled out, however, on our arrival back in the beginning of April we were informed by Kos Island Police that our old document was useable until September this year. Apparently not! We must have the new version at a cost of €50, immediately before we leave this port. Great, more money, worse to come....We cannot do the paperwork now as the tax office is closed until 09.00 hours tomorrow morning (and no doubt the tax office is 10 miles away). We had planned to leave at 05.30 hours tomorrow for another 40 n.m trip to Ithaki to meet our friends! Not at all what we needed as this could hold us up for hours. Despite our explanation of the Kos police story, our need to set off early and our frustration, they wouldn't budge in their demands, "be here at 09.00 am tomorrow". Thanks guys, really helpful. Hmmm do we make a run for freedom at 05.00 hours before daylight and risk being caught, or do we comply with the authorities? We daren't leave without permission, what if we were caught, sneaking away would save €50, and we would arrive at our next destination on time, but would worry us terribly. Of course, had we not gone in search of the Harbour man, we could have been stress free and €50 better off!
Back on board Kejstral that evening we grumbled and complained, however nothing would change the situation. So in the morning we would get up early and be waiting before 09.00 hours at the Port Police office. Next morning at 08.30 hours, still feeling annoyed, we stomped across to the office with our paperwork in hand. Much to our surprise the staff were extremely friendly and helpful, thorough and speedy. Then to the tax office, it was in the building next door, yay! By 09.30 hours were were back on board Kejstral and engine started, ready for the last leg of our journey to meet our friends Jenny and Carl.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
Sailing Kejstral AdventuresRetired and following our dream of sailing around the world Archives
April 2019
Categories |