Woke early, a bit excited. Had breakfast and readied Kejstral for this next challenge. We radio on VHF channel 11, a crackly voice informs us that they are happy for us to dock! Prepared to come alongside, fenders and ropes tied in appropriate places, Kejstral is maneuvered perfectly onto the quay side. Our ropes were taken by a waiting official and we are off to the tower control room. A really pleasant, helpful guy in the very tidy office, took €147 then told us, 'in two boats time, 20 mins, you will be on your way'. Back outside into the now strengthening wind, we climb on board to wait our radio message of permission to pass. Before long we noticed that the flowing road traffic crossing the canal, had come to a standstill, within a few seconds our attention was drawn to the roadbridge itself. As if by magic, this vast slab of metal gradually dropped mechanically into the water, what an amazing feature. Minutes later, we watched two yachts appear from within the canal, making their way towards the dock beside us. Simultaneously, our VHF radio crackled, informing us of our time slot to pass through this awesome entrance. We let loose our trusty ropes and set off, a little nervous but quite excited. The canal was initiated by the Romans as a means to transit through the isthmus from the Kirklades towards the Peloponnese sections of Greece. Various working parties took part in its construction and chiselling. A 6000 team of Jewish Pow were put to work at one point by the Emperor Nero! The Greek authorities after much financial and technical delay, eventually completed this feat of engineering Limestone walls build in size around us as we begin our passage, the height of these soft stone towering sides, give a good understanding of just how deep these workers had to dig and chisel. Mechanical equipment was of course introduced to the project to gouge through this rock. For many years since it's completion in 1893, the flow of traffic and propulsion of these vessels through the water, has caused immense damage to the sides and floor on a daily basis. Each Tuesday the canal is therefore closed for repairs and maintenance. Three bridges criss cross the blue sky above our heads, positioned near the highest ridges, a railway, a motorway and an additional road, take traffic from Piraeus to Patras, via Athens. Rather disconcerting to see huge vehicles noisily trundle over us, at 148 feet above sea level Behind us the submersible road returns to its former position, allowing the busy traffic flow to resume. Fish can be seen flapping around its metal edges. Our passage lasts around an hour, concentration is required to negotiate this relatively narrow waterway, yet our eyes drift upwards in awe of this beautiful creation, holes where the rock quality had been inspected many decades ago, can still be seen within these walls. A carving of Hercules sits nestled into the stone on our port side, a reminder of the vast historical triumph in the canals construction. The canal was excavated at sea level, hence the lack of locks. Apparently, our speed should be around 5 n.ms throughout the journey, any slower and a tug boat may e deployed to move us onward, any faster, and damage could occur to the soft limestone walls and seabed. So, eyes ahead, speed steady and try not to drift sideways... Easier said than done! The wind could be felt as it channelled it's way towards us, indicating that on our exit, we had a challenge on our hands. Nearing the final stages, we could I see the sea swell wash over the submersible roadway at the west side, as it lowered into the lively sea, huge rolling waves took our attention.... this could be interesting! As we exited, the waves washed over our bow, just a taste of what was to come. Leaving the protective breakwater beyond the canal, the winds gradually built in energy and the swell grew harshly. Within 15 minutes of exiting the canal, we were in 30 knot winds and being thrown around by the swell hitting our bow. We rose steeply over huge waves before lurching down into a deep gulf of nothing. When the next wave hit, not so gracefully sending us slamming into the oncoming frothy washing machine. For three hours we took a pounding, rolling with the momentum of this heavy sea. At times the swell seemed to calm, only for us to be thrown again moments later. Sails would have been pointless as the wind was coming directly at us With our engine trying desperately to power it's way through this lashing, our speed dropped considerably at each slamming wave. Three hours is a long time to hang on, our life jackets provided some security, however, we are acutely aware of those rouge waves, would we tip over? One Yacht drifted past us in the opposite direction, for him the wind was pushing and the swell assisted, we were not so fortunate. Drawing closer to the small port of Kiato, we could just make out the rocky outer harbour. All we need to do is get to the entrance and it should be calmer, the breakwater should minimise the swell and hopefully ease the wind force. A huge tanker sat along our starboard side as we rounded the harbour. To our horror, the wind escalated further within this small space. Lazy lines buoys and yachts seemed to fill every possible space, we motored into the long narrow harbour until it was clear we were going to struggle. The wind was touching 40 knots, and we needed to turn Kejstral sideways onto it for our maneouver back out. Just as we turned, the powerful gusts pushed us sideways and despite our engine, we were going nowhere, in fact, we were beginning to slide towards the small fishing boats and shallow water at the far end of the harbour. Slowly inching us round, Kevin managed to maintain enough power to ease us out by reversing. Now what, we couldn't find space in the designated area, the only possible option was to tie onto the wall with that bloody huge tanker. After a bit of discussion, we decided that it was our only option, go alongside the wall, only issue there....We would be side on to the now 45 knot winds. Worth a go, we crept with the wind forcing up backwards towards the wall, there was no one around to assist with ropes and we would struggle to steer close enough without hitting the actual quay. We circled a number of times trying desperately to get a good position, but each time we neared the wall, the wind dragged us away. At one point I managed to lure a poor pedestrian over to assist. I threw him our bow line, which I had already made an easy loop on the guys end, he just needed to get it around something strong. Unfortunately he chose to hold onto the rope with his bare hands!! We yelled, screamed and gesticulated to loop the rope around something, but he hung on..gradually being dragged towards the frothy angry sea. At that point he must of realised his fate, should he continue to hold our 10 ton boat! Huge cleats were mounted on the shore, way too big for our ropes to encompass. He managed to get it onto the smallest cleat just as the wind took hold of Kejstral, how that rope did not snap, the weight of our boat swinging on that one rope was phenomenal. How lucky for him that he was no longer clinging on! Quickly Kevin managed to throw a second rope out, amazingly this poor pedestrian managed to get it tied on tight enough, before the gusts took hold again. We were attached at both ends, however we were about 25 feet from the wall, hanging on by this guy's knot! We all tried in vain to pull Kejstral towards the harbour but the wind was just too overpowering. Our helper couldn't do anything else for us, then he took off towards the massive tanker, within a few moments, eight orange suited men, dragged from their comfy warm ship, were running to our aid. Four on each rope, and with their muscles and hard work they eased us onto the wall. Ropes were retied, fenders placed and replaced and a lot of gratitude was showered over this bunch of men. You have no idea just how scared we were becoming. I really have no idea what we could have done differently, we cannot think of any possible judgements we could or should have made which would have lessened the stress and danger.
We again thanked our lone pedestrian and the orange Panamanian crew for their efforts and assistance, before climbing back inside Kejstral for a stiff drink. Later, much later, we ventured onto the quay side. The wind was ferocious, the sea spray over the outer wall was tremendous and it was grey and downright miserable. We needed to get out for a walk and stretch our legs, this rather dismal looking day was complemented by the just as dismal streets. Graffiti greeted our every step, weeds crept from pavements and dirty shop windows obscured any chance of a brighter picture. We continued out trek and arrived at a Lidl supermarket it was the only thing worth stopping for. How far we walked, we had no idea, just the mechanical footsteps and windswept momentum kept us going, we didn't even buy anything! Without a word we both turned back into the more shop filled streets, a coffee shop was needed. We managed to find an appropriate lounge which played a rather downbeat hum in the background. However, it served a decent drink with a smile, just what we needed for the miserable day and frightening experience. Much later, after food and our return to Kejstral, the wind began to change direction, unfortunately meaning that instead of pushing us away from the quay, the wind was now pushing us against it. This is not good, as the sea sloshes us around, Kejstral is rubbing against the wall., fenders are being pushed out and ropes are stretched almost beyond their capabilities! We need to reposition, however, it is now 10 pm and really dark. Two guys appear along the quay, both of whom stop to ask if we are ok, with a little persuasion and lots of pleading looks, they kindly offer their assistance. Fortunately both are fishermen, great, at least they know the ropes........ Kevin and I untie ropes and steer Kejstral away from harm, not easy in the gusty winds especially as they force us brutally back against our concrete pontoon. Gradually we pull out into the waves and swell, and ease Kejstral over to the more sheltered section of wall where our saintly assistants await our ropes. Within a few minutes we are alongside in a much calmer, quieter sea, with the wind at our stern. Again we thank our kind friends and relief takes over the stress. What a roller coaster of a day, I believe we need a beer!
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Sailing Kejstral AdventuresRetired and following our dream of sailing around the world Archives
April 2019
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