Collected scooter at 08.30 We set off straight to the town of Chora having collected fuel, full tank €7. In 1981 Patmos was officially recognised by the Greek parliament as the holy island. Chora, pronounced 'Hora' is the main town of the Island reached only by a steep climbing winding road. As the road rises higher the views become most spectacular. Every bay can be seen surrounded by turquoise waters and golden sands, boats gently sway, glittering chrome work catching the sun with every movement. The Island is very green, fertile and healthy even in these temperatures. As we climb higher towards the massive grey stone walls surrounding this impressive town, each twist in the road provides us with another camera snapping view. Our bike is abandoned outside the great walls, left to fend for itself while we are enveloped in the atmosphere and sights before us. Whitewashed stone walls and blue painted doors and windows, greet us from beyond the stark grey outer walls. This town has a protective cloak, hidden beneath are traditional stone built cottages and shops painted in the colours of Greece. Narrow cobbled streets, little archways and tunnels with ceilings beautifully made from wooden lath fill us with awe. Stone doorsteps enhanced by orange pink and yellow flowers adorning the doorways. A few cats stretch lazily in doorways and window ledges trying to stay within shade, each looking rather well fed by our estimations! Within Chora's walls can be found the Monastery of St John the theologian, it is quite simply stunning. To take a privileged tour within this awsome building will set us back € 4 each. Clearly as a religious building we must adhere to a suitable dress code. So a long navy skirt is wrapped around my bare legs, I feel respectable :) The white painted walls with stone finishing each corner and edge look beautiful, high above our heads the copper bells glint in the sunshine between pristine white pillars of stone, they look stunning. Priests and monks mingle among the tourists smiling and nodding their greetings no doubt tutting quietly at each bare shoulder or leg passing by. Within the Churchs we have seen in Greece, mahogany wooden alters and beautifully carved benches. Surrounding these are golden candle holders and superb embroidered wall hangings highlighting various Saints and other religious people. Ceilings are painted with the most stunning murals in striking golds, with crimson and blue details. There are mahogany dressers filled with images and trinkets depicting their many holy idols. Near the huge wooden doors are small boxes filled with yellow or white waxy candles, visitors may light and place one of these in memory of a loved one, it is lovely. Outside we are scalded by the harsh sunlight, what a contrast to the cool walls and floors of the Monastery. Three windmills sit high on the outside of Chora town walls, old stone constructions dating back to 1558. There are many flour mills in Greece, most of which have been abandoned and left as ruins, these however have not. Looking upwards towards the beautifully carved wheel, you cannot help but wonder about the amazing work and effort gone towards this refurbishent. The wooden structure holding each of the twelve sails is in itself outstanding. To actually watch it glide through the air with a gentle creaking, each sail as it passes the sun glows brilliant white. Every joint in the framework is finished with chrome, adding a touch of opulence to the design. The round stone building is pointed beautifully in sand coloured mortar, locally quarried stone adding grey and sandy tones to the structure. In the dazzling sunlight against the perfect blue sky these windmills look fabulous. We sneak a look inside, six or seven flour filled sacks stand tidily to one side, empy sacks lay folded on wooden shelves. This mill actually produces flour, as we step inside little puff's of white flour fill the air with a light scent of wheat. A carved wooden staircase curves it's way up onto an oak boarded ceiling, the carving and finishes are perfect, each step attached to the curved walls seamlessly. Upstairs someone is working, we climb tentatively unsure of our intrusion. A Greek lady welcomes us in, ' please come up, I am just clearing the flour away', excellent English! We apologise for our disturbance, she smiles a lot and seems more than happy to explain a little about the mill stones. The refurbishent was carried out in 2010 and only locally sourced materials have been incorporated. Flour is being produced around six sacks per day, for the Island bakeries. How fabulous is that, everything used to restore the mills, produce the ingredients and bake each loaf of bread, is all done from this Island. Donations are used to contribute towards the upkeep, we happy give, very grateful for the opportunity to see this amazing creation. Another dozen pictures are taken, well, I might have missed something!! We head down from the windmills by bike, looking back over my shoulder to catch yet another glimpse of both the windmills and the walls of Chora. According to Greek legend Patmos was sunk, Zeus apparently was convinced by his buddies Apollo and Artemis to resurface the Island, don't you just love these legends :) On the lower tiers of this steep hillside is a cave where John, a disciple of Christ, envisioned the 'apocalypse' a vision of God in a rock formation . We ought to check it out, not wanting to miss a thing. The entrance to this cave has also been refurbished, all newly painted in that sparkling white with sand stone edging, the pine tree covered scene is very pretty. €2 each allows us to wander freely into this tranquil sanctuary. A few tourists mill around gazing at the religious pictures and ornaments. Carved stone items of significance are displayed on stepped sandstone floors. Gothic style archways, lead from one room into the next. Another beautifully finished renovation. The actual cave is beyond the refurbished walls, I cover up in respect, before entering this sacred site. The cave decorated in golds and crimson, candles fill every little ledge, a tourist guide is mid flow as we approach. Fortunately we catch the most significant part, apparently, John saw a vision of God in a small fissure on the rockface. This small section of the wall has been festooned with gold and precious artefacts, highlighting it's existence. I would probably have missed it's significance if not for the very helpful tourist guide 😁 Our religious sightings have come to an end, we need a little relaxation. Back on the winding hillside the road heads back towards the harbour, we take a right turn to Petra. This pretty beach is surrounded by tiny 'Islands' they form a protective arm from any harsh winds and lively seas. For this reason it is filled with an assortment of boats, either on anchor or using mooring buoys. We park by the beach having weaved our way through this little holiday resort. There are people dotted along the shingles absorbing those potent rays, they glisten with oil and water beads while toasting gently in their slumber. The sea is calling our sticky hot bodies, our skin red and tight from the fiery heat. We succumb to the cool inviting waters, it feels really cold, invigorating, a reflection of the opposing temperatures. Floating in this salty ocean, cools us perfectly giving us the enthusiasm and energy to push on. Refreshed, we stop at a small beach restaurant where the wooden white chairs sink gently into soft sand as we sit heavily down, the waiter rushes over, tablecloth in hand smiling hello. Greek salad with fresh bread, just enough to take us through the road trip. The beach is a few steps away with light shingle to tickle our toes en route to that beautiful aqua green sea. The restaurant building is across a road with quite a steady stream of traffic, therefore each plate of food and glass of beer must dodge an array of vehicle in order to land on our table. It is entertainment in itself, awaiting the next waiter and tray assault course! The heat is soaring, but we long to see more of this lovely Island. As we head north, the scenery changes gradually from bustling towns to sedate countryside, every turn in the road seems to bring us to another beautiful church. Greece love their churches, there are hundreds, each painted with those pristine whites and stunning blues. I snap away loving them all, 'I am sure you caught that church a minute ago!' groans my driver as I stop him every 2 minutes for yet another picture. Goats can be seen grazing oblivious to the beautiful views of shores and colourful beaches. Small villages appear out of nowhere, always with an amazing church. Some houses look as if they have been around for forever, old stonework and tired paintwork. Alongside these may be glowing white painted homes with their bright coloured doors and window frames, with occasionally a cat lazing in the shaded spots. The views from the highest point are astounding farms, fields filled with local produce, beaches touching each curve of the hillsides. I think this must be (so far) my favourite Island for the scenery. We absorb these wonderful sights for as long as we can tolerate the scorching heat before we head back to our little home ' 'Kejstral' We eat on board with the plan to head back up to Chora for an evening drink. The sun eases it's rocketing temperatures giving us a chance to enjoy a bit more of the Island. Chora has come to life, there are lights switching on, shop owners hanging their pretty linens on ladders beside doorways. Doors opening when they were earlier tightly shut against the heat. Cats appear out of alley ways stretching and yawning awake. The town is opening like a different book from earlier in the day. This morning it was sleepy a little lifeless yet so beautiful, this evening is sparkling, bustling and vibrant. We chose a taverna in the town square, surrounding us are quaint pastel coloured tables and chairs, twinkling lights and laughter. Everyone seems so comfortable in their surroundings, the wine is lovely and relaxes us into this atmosphere of calm. Behind us is sitting a monk with a string of wooden beads wrapped loosely between his hands. He has been chatting and laughing with the waiters and barstaff since we arrived, he greets us with ' kalespera' and calls 'salute' as we raise our glasses to another amazing day. We feel very welcome in this ' jekyll and hyde' town. As sunset approaches we try to find an ideal spot to capture its beauty, the Monastery entrance seems the highest point. While waiting with our cameras the Priests and monks arrive for perhaps a sunset prayer, each one climbing the many worn, stone steps upwards to their place of worship. We are greeted by each one with a wave and smile and a simple gesture towards the sunset, no matter who we are, we all appreciate this daily ritual and it's effect upon our surroundings. It is bedtime, we head back for what turned out to be a pretty sleepless night!
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Sailing Kejstral AdventuresRetired and following our dream of sailing around the world Archives
April 2019
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