Winds due to pick up later this morning so our need to leave was great. Set off by 06.40, sail out by 06.55 wind from West, lovely rolling seas in our direction 7.4 knots !! A couple of dolphins accompany us for a few miles, weaving across the bow to show us their agility and skills, they are so graceful. At times they appear to touch the hull, perhaps in need of a back scratch! Surfing the crest of each wave, occasionally we catch it early or perhaps late and 'Kejstral' lurches inelegantly. The wind has arrived thought we might get through a day with less! Nope, not today. 27 N.ms and 4 hours 30 minutes journey time. When we pulled into the harbour wall to drop anchor, we reversed back perfectly then inadvertently swung sideways onto the harbour with that damned wind, not what was intended! Then tightening the anchor chain to pull us straight, ie stern to the wall however, the anchor would not hold, within minutes we were touching stern to wall!. Our decision then was to pull alongside for security as the wind was pushing us straight into the wall. Every boat that arrived did exactly the same, we did not feel quite so stupid :) Another boat with six British guys pulled in next to us they came alongside by accident too, we assisted where possible but unfortunately their manoeuvring left their lovely boat damaged. Nice guys invited us on board for beer for our troubles clearly we could not refuse :) theirs was a charter boat now with a lovely dent in its hull where it collided with the harbour wall. Just when we thought all was settled the Port police told us not to tie along side as it takes up too much room, go to the other harbour wall. So back to the ropes, anchor and controls. By this time the British lads had gone ashore, therefore we had to move to a different place across the small harbour in this wind to a wall next to the ferry port! We loosened ropes easing 'Kejstral' back into a stern to position with the wind forcing us into this wall. With gentle adjustments and a watchful eye we were able to push away from the damned wall with no damage :) Fenders altered in readiness for our new position and a slick procedure brought us nicely into place between a lovely big cruiser and the big black rubber buffers of what was to arrive later! Although safer as out of the wind, it will no doubt be a very noisy night as the ferry port was 100 yards to our left with bars and restaurants all lined up in front of us, great I'm sure we asked for quiet. Arrived around 12.00 lunchtime , once settled, we watched four massive jet ferries arrive within half an hour, a very speedy process. In Naxos our previous destination we thought the port police were efficient if not a little grumpy with their whistle blowing and gesturing to cars, bikes and boats. These guys on Ios were of a different breed! Whistling at everything mobile, frightening us and everyone else with their shrill commands and strict rules. I now understand why, we were moored next to a one way road, the port police were the only people capable of recognising the road signs! Every car, bike and quad received a whistle to correct their ignorance. What caused even more chaos was when a ferry arrived. It was full of 18- 28 year olds buzzing from that holiday spirit, giggling girls and loud lads bellowing to one another over the sound of jet ferry engine and the wind. The port police were regimental in their control, they had to be in order to cope with this daily onslaught of pandemonium. One of our dreams was to visit Santorini, it really was a must do item to be ticked from our long list of goals. We found the ticket office and booking desk there, we were relieved of more money than was anticipated. €110 for a hotel room with breakfast and a further €160 for the ferry return trip. Wow, more than we planned to spend, but it was only a stones throw away!! Sailing there would have been problematic as depths were 150 -200 meters all round the Island, where there were shallow spots, the anchorage was not recommended due to ferries, cruise liners and trip boats. As fairly novice sailors we did not need unnecessary stress. Therefore we paid for an early morning ferry to safely carry us to our little dream Island in the morning. We decided to walk into the main town of Chora, you are shocked, as were we, another Chora ! The signs indicated a stepped incline until the town was reached. It was a full fitness workout, step after step coiled it's way around this rocky hillside. It was very carefully painted with white edging in a decorative attempt to draw your mind from the hundreds of white edged steps to come. Around each curve small cottages nestled into the rocks, at least it was pretty! We were not alone, most of our stepmates were however descending rather than ascending, hmm perhaps there was an easier option to reach this town. As we flopped into the now horizontal road, we looked back at the astounding view of the port below. Lights twinkled in the navy blue nighttime sky, illuminating all before us. The moon dazzled white almost full, and shone brightly over the ocean it was breathtaking ( as were the steps!) The path led us towards the bright lights of Chora, gradually filling with sun scorched tourists eager to sample the Islands nightlife. Music hummed from doorways, jazz pop and the more sedate relaxing mellow tunes all attempting to entice and capture and create memories for the crowd gliding by. We felt old, most of these bars were designed for the 20 year old, itching to party and meet like-minded companions. Brash behaviour and voices raised, each competing for the attention of everyone around, this was not how we envisaged Chora. We didn't fit into this culture or lifestyle. We continued through Chora hoping for something to suit our era and lifestyle, alas no, we stopped in one corner garden bar, looked at each other and both said ' no' at the same time. This nightlife is for a much younger person, one who can be bothered with the effort of yelling above the grunge music and loud artwork. The town was amazing to see it held all of the qualities we love, tiny shops, lovely cafes, curved pathways and perfect paintwork, we were just visiting at the wrong time of day. To be fair to the crowds in Chora, drunken behaviour, smoking and swearing were not even the issue, it was purely the cultural and age differences between us and them. We headed back to the fitness workout of descent. Managed to find a more sedate, gentle bar just so we could have our refreshments prior to the steps, it was better priced too €6 for two beer, my kind of bar. We wandered back a little disappointed but decided that although it didn't suit us, the town during daylight hours would be so much better. Bed was calling, we must obey :)
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Sailing Kejstral AdventuresRetired and following our dream of sailing around the world Archives
April 2019
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