Woke early to boats going out therefore anchor chains being pulled in which can be a little noisy depending on the size of boat and their proximity to yours. Breakfast had, quick tidy up then we headed out on our scooter, first stop the military museum at Kokkina on the south west of Lakki bay. On the approach through a country road where trees shield us from the sun we are faced with tanks trucks and an aeroplane all dating back to the second world war. The museum is set within air raid bunkers and tunnels which is a bit eerie but fascinating, just being within these wall which housed some of the Leros inhabitants during a terrifying period of their lives. Uniforms hang proudly side by side as they may once have been worn by their either German, Italian or British owners. At this time the Italians were in power in Leros when the German and British were battling. Leros was heavily bombed and suffered huge loss of life. There were some fascinating items relating to the lives of all nationality's at that time giving great insight into a war torn Island and it's inhabitants. Now feeling a little depressed and humble we took off towards the north of the island where the military hang out. Signs are erected every where, no pictures or video must be taken clearly for security purposes, however all we saw were vehicles lined up looking a trifle dusty under a massive sun canopy. Soldiers milling around with mugs of tea in hand but looking particularly smart in their greens and buildings covered in camouflage which clearly wasn't working! Partheni harbour sits neatly alongside an airport at the most northern point of Leros.This harbour is mainly used for winter storage of boats, anchorage is possible but as the wind comes predominantly from the north it may not be an ideal spot. Boats line the hard standing wearing winter protective coats ( 35 degrees today) I am sure they protect from the sun too. Dusty covers lay paint sprayed in blues and reds under hulls which have been jet washed, scraped and repaired before the glossy anti foul paint has been perfectly applied. Some of these boats have been standing for so long little plants have begun creeping out of their woodwork. Green spirals trailing through portholes the glass long broken and swept away. On the tiny runway alongside stands the only aeroplane of the day, waiting for its lone passenger and skeleton crew to board, the runway is barely long enough but obviously has been in use for a very long time. Gourna bay was our next stop, on the west coast a pretty beachfront curves around the sparkling blue waters. Two cafe / restaurants sit in the middle of this large bay edge with a small pristine white church in south edge then Agios Isadore takes pride of place on the north end. Standing out on a rock literally in the water, this picturesque church looks stunning. The pathway has been built from the shoreline and leads you through the water outwards around fifty yards to this rock. A few whitewashed steps lead you up to the quaint wooden church door, leaded windows and that Greek blue paint finish the display beautifully. My camera groans ! Up to Agio Marina next where we stopped last evening for wander. We met a lovely slightly eccentric Greek lady who seemed to just need company. She told us tales and talked about life in this country a very nice lady. The castle in Leros sits high on a mountain on the north east of the island. It stands stoney faced looking down at the bays around its feet, we climb the mountain no, not on foot, but on our trusty transport the views alone are worth stopping for. Steps take you into the high sandstone walls for a look into the history within. Each their of stone ramparts and pathways were once trodden by soldiers and guards of this Island sworn to protect the land. This castle has unfortunately been abandoned and left to ruin by the powers that maintain historical buildings, it is quite sad to see walls bulging and damage to structures, but as we all know, money is needed for repair, restoration and preservation. Back to 'Kejstral' to collect the paperwork as tomorrow we leave Greece :( Our first official stamp is from customs they are situated in Agio Marina, next the port police who are nearby then back down into Lakki for the harbour master to complete our ' boat passport' We feel quite sad due to our Turkish residence visa, we can only be out of Turkey for a set period of time. Pandeli is a small town on the east side of Leros it is very well liked by the sailing community. Anchorage here is in a rocky seabed but a stern line is recommended to the rocks. We would prefer to anchor in the bay below which is also rocky more shallow and more protected from the prevailing winds. Pandeli is delightful as we drive down the high hillsides we wind into a little gem of Greek tradition, stone white buildings greet the visiting traffic. Pensions squeezed into tiny cottages with the sweetest balconies and flowers trailing over rooftops into tiny gardens. Tables and chairs snugly fit into these gardens for guests to take an evening glass of wine overlooking this picturesque town. Shops fill the quaint backstreets overflowing with pastel coloured prettiness, old gnarled tree branches painted perfectly white, display goods in a rustic beautiful manner. On the beach front bars and restaurants entice the hot and hungry passer by, menus to drool over, fish cabinets filled spectacularly and tables laid with pretty covers and gleaming cutlery, who could walk by and not feel hungry? At the far end of this town is a traditional fishing harbour, local fishermen clean their nets while inspecting for damage to their livelihood. Yellow orange and pink nets can be seen strewn over the ground around their worn feet. Laughing and talking of their days catch no doubt, they seem content and comfortable in their very simple seemingly stressfree life. When only a few hundred yards away, superyachts and cruisers fill this bay with elegant clothing and accessories sitting down to their splendid evening meal of lobster and an appropriate probably very expensive wine. Above the town stand four windmills, beautifully refurbished and painted, they provide a stunning focal point when viewed from below and an equally spectacular view from their position on a steep winding hillside. As we take the scooter higher onto this hillside the wind gathers speed and force, hair blowing everywhere when we arrive at the first windmill. This small tastefully decorated mill has been converted into a small bar and eating place. The position of its terraced garden overlooks the fabulous bay of Pandeli and surrounding little Islands. Boats line every conceivable curve of this rugged coast, gleaming chrome and white in the now dwindling sunlight. From modest yacht's to the sumptuous fast cruisers, each tied stern to against the rocky backdrop. The wind however is howling around our ears, but the view is amazing, more and more people take to this hilltop for a glimpse of this pretty town. We sink into turquoise cushions perched high on benches with our drink watching lights gradually flicker on as the night approaches and the town below comes alive with visitors. The windmills glow in amber light as the moon gently pulls itself over the mountain tops beyond. Giving in to the dusk and a cool wind, we relax from the stifling heat, what a relief to watch the sun finally disappear. We decide to head back into Agio Marina for our last gyros and drink, the atmosphere is busy and vibrant. Restaurants and bars are full with various types of clients, from the shorts and bikini clad youngsters to the evening dress of the more mature ladies and gents. All guests are welcomed as equals and given the identical menus to select from. Waiting staff bustle between chattering guests awaiting their indecisive order, without frustration they give vivid descriptions of selected meals allowing each customer a mouth watering choice. The food looks beautifully presented and guessing by the empty plates being removed, it tastes just as delicious as it appeared.
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Sailing Kejstral AdventuresRetired and following our dream of sailing around the world Archives
April 2019
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