Our journey today will take us west along the Turkish coastline back to Kalkan, having anchored here recently we knew roughly where the safe, good depth spots were. Having paid for some freshly baked bread and stowed our belongings, we set off from this perfect little spot in Nuri Beach. We wound our way through the numerous brightly coloured fishing boats, out through the bay entrance into a very calm open sea. Virtually no movement on the water, our route looked amazing, yet within minutes of leaving this sheltered bay the breeze ruffled our hair and the oceans surface. Gentle lapping waves splashed and slapped against the hull, 'Kejstral' slipped through each rolling dipping crest, undulating gracefully to our destination. The wind which had been sparse initially grew in force as we sliced through the growing waves, 10 knots filled our sails perfectly, however the wind direction altered over the first few miles, bringing it onto our bow, totally the wrong place. This meant instead of us heading west, our direction must now be adjusted and we have to tack either side of the wind. Not only does this extend the length of our journey, but we have to put in some work maneovering the sails regularly. Yes we are being lazy, as recently the wind has allowed us to set the sails for the entire passage leaving us free to relax read and write. Not today, today we must put our muscles to good use and manipulate 'Kejstral' according to the wind, land and sea in 35 degrees of sunshine! 19.7 n.ms to Kalkan, trawling line behind us, yet not a fish in sight, could have had a good tuna for tea. The waters are empty the fishing is dire which is pretty bad news for the locals who rely on this food source. We do spot a few vibrant blue flying fish launching themselves through the air just above the rippling waves and sea spray, these mystical shimmering winged fish resemble sparkling blue fairies skimming the surface at an amazing speed. At least that is how Kevin described his sighting! Our route took us past the Kalkan harbour where the bustling town folk entice the holiday visitors to sample their menus and goods. Streams of little boats chug wearily into the congested fishing harbour, each fighting for a small space to disembark with freshly caught fish and smiling sight seeing visitors. Gulets take up residence in the sheltered coves nearby with music softly drifting after them, those settled into position already, off-load their hot sticky tourists into the cooling clear water. Barbeque aromas beging to filter into the afternoon heat, ready for the hungry swimmers to bask in this spectacular bay, beer in one hand and burger in the other. We find our suitable spot between a catamaran and another similar sized yacht, neither seem occupied at present. We anchor about 20 meters out from the rocks, providing enough privacy for each vessel around us. A sandy grassy sea bed holds us securely as the wind has escalated to around 15 knots, not too problematic, we just swing around more than we would like. As soon as our anchor has set successfully, we head straight for a swim to cool off, the water is perfectly clear and cool. As the afternoon sun begins to drop, the temperature follows suit. Mountainous scenery surrounds our bay, king fishers can be heard chattering in the leafy greenery, every animal, bird and person seem to come alive as the heat subsides. Having spent months in this oppressive temperature we long for that evening reprieve, it is the perfect time for sitting outside the sunshade without that painful glare and sweat trickling down our backs. Kevin decided to try for some fish, out goes the line, dipping into the empty ocean, most previous attempts have been fruitless so no excitement in his casting. Within minutes he has picked out two bream, one large enough for a good meal, the other one slightly smaller. Then moments later a now buzzing Kevin pulls out a further three edible sized fish. Brilliant, but just a bit late for today's meal, as tea was cooking nicely on the gas stove! Once descaled and cleaned they sat awaiting their fate in our fridge until tomorrow. (Must find some good recipes for fish!) Our evening meal complimented by a glass of home made rose wine, and subtle background music drifting from the various gulets nearby. We lay on deck staring at the beautiful display of glimmering stars, an awesome sight when the surrounding area has little or no artificial light to ruin the effect. An occasional star breaks free and shoots across the inky black sky, caught briefly in the blink of an eye during which, frantically thought of wishes are hastily produced, then probably forgotten as the night lingers on. 22.8 N.ms, no wind on the weather forecast, great! Don't fancy motoring all the way. The bay we were in had quite a breeze building so we were hopefully going to to catch some of that on route. We had planned to leave around 10.am but we hate hanging around, as we had eaten breakfast washed and tidied, there was no reason to stay. Leaving the bay took 10 minutes with 10 knots in a good direction we unfurled our mainsail which filled gently with the lovely breeze. As we rounded the land mass and travelled between Kastalorizo, the Greek Island, we tacked to maintain that wonderful force of nature. Heading out into the open sea, usually provides a little more wind therefore more speed. With the Genoa and mainsails out we were flying, I cannot describe that feeling of freedom and power when the engine is silent and the air pressure and force, together with manipulation of the sails take you across the water. To see the sails curving beautifully and not flapping wildly gives us a massive sense of achievement and pleasure. Within an hour we were healing over so much both sails had to be reduced in size, effectively slowing a little but more importantly allowing 'Kejstral' to sit comfortably on the water. (Less chance of us falling out too!) Our journey should only take just over 4 hours at a speed of 5 knots however, at the wind is rarely a constant force, our speed varies accordingly. In addition, in order to travel from one point to another, we must chose our direction based on where the wind is coming from. Straight lines are not always possible, zig zags are sometimes needed. This of course takes time, more time than a straight route. Our journey therefore took 5 Hours. Having read about Cold Water bay and friends had told us how amazing it was, we thought we must sample a little of this tiny bay. On our approach a small motor boat zipped between each yacht, he seemed to be guiding each into the perfect position with limited language and plenty of hand signals the various captains from all over Europe managed to understand and follow his instructions. He asked us to squeeze into a tiny cove within the small bay, not somewhere we would have risked normally. Our stern lines were hijacked by our assistant and tied securely around some pre prepared metal rods drilled into the rocky shore. These ropes were then attached back on 'Kejstral' and pulled taught after our anchor had been dropped with precision in a set spot. What a well planned, tightly packed little anchorage. Had each yacht dropped anchor by themselves, I think only six or seven vessels would have been comfortable. With this guy's planning, we had around 20 yachts sitting snugly and safely in this tiny piece of paradise and what a lovely atmosphere. This very picturesque bay looking over the mountains around Oliu Deniz, with lush green hillsides, tree lined shores and turquoise waters and of course, a tiny cobbled walkway leading upwards to what appears to be an impressive restaurant, balancing on a ledge above this unique little bay. We took the plunge, and as described, the water was absolutely freezing, running from these high mountains and flowing rapidly through crevices between the rocks until it splashes icily into the cool sea below. Every couple of metres a warm patch gives solace from the harsh cold, skin tingling shocks of freezing water however, it was breathtakingly beautiful and refreshing. Once back on board, drying in the now cooling afternoon with the shade of mountains shielding us, we relax while watching further yachts being guided perfectly into gaps. Once secured, the crew leap unsuspectingly into the shocking waters below, so funny to hear their gasps and screeches, as they launch themselves from the boats. We showered then rowed zoe to the beach where steps and a cobbled stone path led us up the hillside to a great little family run restaurant. The view down to the bay was gorgeous, with yachts tightly packed below us, the skill of our assistant on his motor boat was incredible, he has clearly been planning this 'parking' arrangement for quite some time! High on this hillside white tablecloths adorn the many wooden benches and quaint tables, flowers fill vases and tiny candles flicker in the evening breeze. Pristine white dishes, sparkling glasses and shiny cutlery all set out in anticipation of these boat owners and their families. Filled with enthusiasm, and excited to see what was on offer in this pretty restaurant, a trail of weary sun dried customers ascend the cobbled steps. The twinkling lights brought a warm glow to this busy thriving business, tables soon filled, corks popped and 'cheers' signalled in many different languages, before a continuous stream of loaded plates arrived for consumption and clearance. We opted to eat here as the prices were reasonable and the chicken curry turned out to be delicious.
Impromptu entertainment from a Turkish group of friends completed this fabulous evening. Singing and guitar with drum accompaniment carried us through until bedtime, with this great atmosphere and food reminding us how incredibly lucky we are to experience this wonderful lifestyle. We wandered back to 'Kejstral' feeling full and happy, sat on bow on beanbags with a glass of wine then settled for a good night's sleep ......
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Sailing Kejstral AdventuresRetired and following our dream of sailing around the world Archives
April 2019
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