Woke early to catch ferry to Santorini, it was leaving at 07.25 am. Ferry was a fast jet awsome machine, we travelled at 27 knots and arrived in this first class looking boat only an hour later. Excited to see this famous little volcanic sculptured Island. Boy were we in for a shock ! What a run down, tired looking little ferry port not at all what we envisaged. Buses stood right by the harbour wall ready to chauffeur the prebooked guests to their various places of choice. A sheer rock face was all that could be seen from the port to anywhere on the island therefore walking to our hotel was not an option! €40 for a taxi or bus, therefore we sourced a car, a bit battered looking and for the bargain price of €90 until tomorrow evening, not a good start to our budget! Thankfully the beaten car managed to transport us to the top of the rockface, bloody good job really. Once on top of the Island, wow what an absolutely stunning view, in the distance were the two outer Islands, Thirasia and Nea Kameni the actual volcano. In the forefront is the Caldera (a large crater formed during an immense eruption as it forces lava out and empties the lava chamber below) so basically creating a large moat around the volcano site. It looks fantastic, with three Cruise liners and few mega yacht's in the bay the scene is just breathtaking. This is the image we anticipated and we were overwhelmed. Incredible to think that this whole area was once one Island, during the eruption, this magnificent crater at least 500 meters in depth was formed. The rockface is 400 meters high and water depth is between 100 and 200 hundred meters deep! Anchorage would be a little tricky in that depth, even the cruise liners do not drop anchor, they float around with thrusters to optimise their position. There are mooring buoys around the rocky shoreline which were being used by everyone, super yacht's and gulets as well as smaller yacht's and motorboats. The road led us to the main town. Fira is the ancient capital of Santorini otherwise known as Thira, the road preceding this renowned town was pretty shabby and I am afraid yet again left us feeling cheated. Wrecks of cars and old disused buildings unattractively left to crumble into disrepair were not what we expected from the acclaimed Thira. As we neared the town centre a carpark relieved us of our wheels allowing us to wander and explore the streets. Just as well really as what we were being exposed to so far was a bit depressing. Following winding streets our hearts began to lift, perhaps our first impressions were somewhat premature. As the streets grew narrower and prettier with tiny shops, those whitewashed walls and charming decorations all appealing to our sense of satisfaction, our smiles grew with anticipation of the next corner and stairway. It was lovely, so we stopped for drinks €15 for a coffee and a coke! My purse was cringing. cThira is a very old town, the buildings are in need of some repairs, intermingled with these older properties were lovely tastefully restored restaurants and shops. With some work, some amazing buildings could so easily be restored and brought to life, what a challenge that would be, perhaps another year! The outskirts of Thira are much less impressive than the centre, maybe we had visions of a pristine island drawing in the rich and famous. Perhaps we just came in through the back door unlike those who arrive by plane or boat. There is an airport on the eastern coast, flat and unassuming lands surrounding this gateway to paradise certainty not giving any clues to the goldmines on top of the rockface. Our hotel was in Karterados, a small village between Thira and the airport. It was highly recommended by the travel agent in Ios. Nicholas Hotel stood out from the crowds of white and blue in this small town, her yellow and terracotta walls lit beautifully by sparkling lights. A well maintained swimming pool greeting each hot sticky guest with its blue tiled steps into sanctuary. Each room was stepped and set back a meter from its neighbouring accommodation to maximise privacy and provide a hacienda feel. Green painted shutters kept each room cool, tiles underfoot assisted this effect. The staff were perfect hosts and happy in their daily tasks, with breakfast included in this €105 per night hotel, yes rather pricey but worth it to see our goal, Santorini! Our friendly receptionist kindly gave us a map and ' her' view of the Island. What a refreshing change, it was not all glittering and fabulous, at least it was honest, I have to say, her thoughts reflected ours however, we hadn't seen the best parts. Thank goodness for her help. We drive to Oia one of our planned places ( receptionists verification included) our route took us to the north of the Island, a 20 minute drive. As the road meandered around rock faces we could clearly see the differing rock layers, cream ash layers speckled with reddish stones then alternating sections of black volcanic rock. Quite amazing scenery, in addition, buildings filtered sublimely into the twisting bending road. Gradually the town of Oia unfolded and what a difference from Thira. The roads became narrow allowing only one vehicle through which became a bit awkward with coaches one after another. Parking was great with a €3 charge for 5 hours, from here we entered the prettiest town I have ever seen. White paint may have been going cheap on the day it was decorated as everything shone and dazzled in the brilliant sunshine. Every wall, step church house and shop looked pristine, flowers adorning every gap and doorway. Twisting winding white steps leading down to several tiers in the rockface every building made you smile with delight, my poor camera. Shops woven into the rocks took on a cottage look, all different yet all charming, jewellery and clothing by those expensive designers, filling windows and elegant displays. Bars with white woven awnings overlook the caldera, cozy white cushions plumped to within an inch of their lives strewn over soft white sofa's drawing in our thirsty hot bodies. We walk for what seems like miles, not wanting to miss a thing, each bend in the paths and step to another level inciting us further into this fabulous town. We are weary therefore decide to go back for our siesta. This evening we will return, for the spectacular sunset as seen in those magazine's and books advertising this Island. We ate yummy gyros from a local cafe those pitta wraps with pork, salad and chips coated in that lovely garlic/ yoghurt sauce. €8 drinks included! Our evening drive to Oia was so much busier than earlier, coaches and more coaches rolled along the winding roads. We parked again as before however, we were crammed into tighter smaller spaces, perhaps to squeeze in as many of us as possible. The streets were packed with tourists every one holding a camera, all of us flowing into this small, but beautiful town. As we filter through narrow streets we catch glimpses of the terraces below, between stunning white holiday apartments and hotels, were tiny private, aqua green swimming pools. Other balconies housed wooden sunloungers and tables, displayed perfectly with plants and glass candle holders just awaiting their guests to enjoy. The bars and restaurants were buzzing, voices and laughter filling the evening. As the sun hovered lower, the population of Oia followed, finding their ultimate spot balancing on walls, peering round corners, and teetering on steps, each craning and straining to catch their best shot on film. We were no different, at the far end of Oia stand two refurbished windmills, these striking structures formed perfect silhouettes against the setting sun. No one moved, a pin drop could have been heard in the eerie silence as the sun gently nestled into the ocean leaving pink, orange and yellow skies behind on this wonderful evening sky.
Everyone applauded as this perfectly natural occurrence completed a perfect day in Santorini. Just to end a magical day a complete full moon filled the night sky, glowing and reflecting perfectly onto the caldera. The crowds leaving the streets were fuller and wandered with less purpose, some stopping to gaze in shop windows, others opting to dine or have drinks. We chose to sit in a quiet bar overlooking the bay, we watched one of the cruise liners sail away perhaps chasing the afterglow of sunlight. Our day was done, we headed to our 'proper' bed and shower.
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April 2019
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