We set off from Levitha in good time, by 08.00 hrs, we had wind of 10-12 knots on the beam, perfect sailing conditions for three hours with wind onto our starboard side. Then of course the wind subsided, leaving us bobbing harshly on the 2 meter swell. 7 hours travelling, 5 tankers, and not one fish! No fishing boats to be seen either. One other yacht drifted by in the distance, her tightly wrapped sails indicating a windless passage for its crew. At 3pm we made our way into this very pretty Island. With its harbour on the south west edge, it gave reasonable protection from the wind, but a swell still managed to sneak it's way in. Kejstral was moored stern to, in 4 meters of water, with a nice sand/ mud seabed which ensured a good hold for our stay. The fishing harbour lies on one side of us with busy men attending to nets and ropes. Their worn hands work with endless reams of yellow woven string, meticulously examining each inch and every weight. Scraps of seaweed and driftwood are discarded while small crustaceans are tossed into the sea. These fishermen talk, almost without stopping for breath, I cannot imagine what discussions they can make last an entire afternoon. The ferry dock lay on our other side, as on each of these small Islands, supplies are transported from possibly the larger Island of Naxos, most mornings and evenings. A few locals chattered in a bar above this quay, white painted steps led towards their voices and laughter. We have lunch onboard then decide to explore our new land, flower beds line this pretty little harbour, bright pink and yellow petals surrounded by healthy green foliage. The road is little more than a dust track, but must carry vehicles regularly to and from this port. Cottage style houses sit untidily behind rather wobbly stone walls, their occupants happy to exchange a greeting as we wander past. As the long expanse of beach comes into view, the house styles change, holiday apartments creep into view from behind mature bushes and palm trees, big canopies of green fronds, flicker in the breeze creating stripey shadows on our pathway. White painted stonework with vivid blue shutters and doors, replace the worn unruly homely cottages and their tumbling stone garden walls. These colours reflect their countries flag, which adorns most of the government and community buildings, the colours make a truly beautiful combination which give Greece that holiday, summery feel. Grass replaces the dusty pathways and hosepipes spray a fine mist of nourishment to maintain the perfect garden around which various workmen can be seen, if not heard. Busily restoring and repairing this accommodation for the coming seasons guests. The aroma of flowers and fresh paint fills our nostrils until the salty air takes over, as these apartments are beautifully situated just beyond the beach. The air is still cool as we sink into soft sand, while skimming stones and watching the repetitive wave formations. Silky smooth sand reaches the waters edge where gentle bubbling waves lap over. Shiny pebbles loosely scattered across the sand, glisten in the bright sun, glinting as the water recedes once again. We gather pebbles and create our own artwork, an anchor design is our little contribution to this lovely peaceful village and beach. On our walk back towards the port, we are acknowledged by every cat and local, this friendly community openly show their appreciation for visitors, which is a great relief to us. There are occasions when we feel our arrival is almost an intrusion in the town, fortunately those experiences are few and far between. I suppose these small islands, rely on the holiday trade possibly more so than the larger Islands. The roads winds up towards the chattering people that we heard on our arrival. A small, but pretty well stocked shop stands above the harbour, inside, the dusty shelves are filled with old tins and contraptions, bottles and packets. The more regularly used items are fortunately, dust free and within date, which is always good to see. As well as being the local grocery, this store has also taken on the task of being the meeting place of this town. The elders have taken their position under a bamboo shaded balcony, blue wooden chairs hold their weary bodies, whiles their worn elbows rest on untreated wooden tables. Coffee cups emptied many hours before, sit abandoned alongside the island newspaper. The atmosphere is brilliant, laughter and gossip ( we can only assume) fills their afternoon, banter and teasing keep them coming back for more each day. They all smile and greet us as we sit on the edge of their gathering, trying not to intrude on their community spirit. We have a drink while imagining their discussion, one elderly man with wrinkled hands, tips out his purchase for all to see. Four window/ door hinges clatter onto the wooden surface, two looked to be brass the others chrome looking. We gather from their body language facial expressions and voices that this man's audience were deciding which hinge would be the most appropriate for the task. Clearly the discussion was for everyone's opinion, as that is how the afternoon passed for this village. What a fabulous spirited bunch and what an amazing sense of family and friendship these people express. We couldn't take our eyes from their crinkled smiles, cheeky banter and their signals and cues, we actually felt a part of their little community in the short time spent here. Our evening is complete with our meal cooked on board, then snuggled up below decks from the chilly breeze, despite a beautiful sunset....It is still only April!
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Sailing Kejstral AdventuresRetired and following our dream of sailing around the world Archives
April 2019
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