Woke in the night to the sound of creaking ropes. Kevin spent ages trying to sort them before we even settled for sleep, earplugs did the trick we slept perfectly after that. It was a very humid morning, lots of dew soaking the decks, ropes and our towels which were left limp and wet from our shower last evening. The sun was slowly emerging from the mountains around us gradually drying each dew drop and surface. Goats could be heard bleating loudly from all over the hillside an occasional one seemingly left behind by his family, therefore baa ing at the top of its croaky little voice to attract some parental attention. Breakfast was taken sitting in the cockpit, watching the world drift by, boatees gently coming to life around us, a few swimming some wandering out of their cabins bleary eyed and ruffled from their nights sleep. Some of our neighbours make their way to the restaurant for either breakfast or just some freshly baked yummy bread. The fishermen on their little wooden boats nearby sat busily sorting nets and equipment from their nights catch, a woman dressed in full covered clothing organised breakfast for the workers, I wonder if these woman have similar thoughts to us European women, "Don't leave that filthy net next to my clean table" or "wash your hands before you touch that food" I wish I understood a little more Turkish, it could be rather amusing 😁 We just loved the setting aqua green / blue waters, wooden sunbleached rickety pontoon leading to the rustic wooden restaurant, rocky hillsides with a sprinkle of stone ruins finished off by a citadel bearing the Turkish flag, what more could you ask for.................well, I do like a good supermarket!!! We completed our usual morning ablution, packed away all items lying around, closed hatches and readied our ropes all in anticipation of our journey today. Our sail should be 32 n.m. Despite the light winds predicted we expect to have our sails filled by lunchtime due to the Meltemi winds. These winds come from a high pressure created over the Anatolian plateau and Balkans, which then meet with the low pressures found over eastern Asia, thus creating a turbulent wind which begins around 11.00 am and subsides normally as the sun sets. As the land cools the high pressures drops, therefore by the evening, the wind generally calms. For this reason in Turkey and some of the Greek Islands, the wind may not reflect what the weather report has suggested. We let loose the pontoon lazy line, dropped our stern ropes and we set off. We had 6 knots of wind which means our mainsail did most of the work, the Genoa just flaps like mad, it isn't great when the wind is less than 7 knots. The breeze escalated throughout the day until the Genoa was happily curving gracefully with that powerful force, we accelerated gently taking us on route to Ekincik at 5.5 knots of speed. When the sailing is gentle we are able to actually use the travelling time, as well as manipulating the sails to optimise their function, we can have drinks, eat, read and write. Unlike when we are travelling at 6-7 knots and the boat is healing over on its side, then you just perch on a spot away from the waves while clinging onto anything solid. Food and fluids are not an option at this point. We usually attempt to plan ahead, get lunch ready in advance, ensure it is easy to eat food and that it will be quick to tidy up, but ..... some days the wind and waves just take you by surprise, today is pretty easy sailing. I write or read but Kevin struggles with this as reading or writing means looking down, for some, this is not good and can lead to sea sickness and balancing issues. Kevin likes to fiddle as men like to do, he will play with the sails trying desperately to enhance their performance then he fiddles a bit more. His confidence and knowledge have really flourished over the last few months, I on the other hand am getting there, bit by bit!! Ekincik is not the prettiest bay, quite open to swell too. We anchored easily into sand at a depth of 7 metres but the breeze and swell were a little off putting. We swam to cool from the overpowering sun but soon the water became a bit too lively. Zoe our tender was taken ashore as went in search of a boat trip to Dalyan. Dalyan is a town nearby which is situated on a marshy river, alongside this town are the ancient ruins of Kaunos We thought perhaps we could go and see the marshlands which lead to the tombs high on the rockfaces then follow the river towards Turtle Beach where apparently, turtles hang out and lay eggs. Zoe is abandoned on the beach while we head towards the many little trip boats lined up along the harbour, adjoining the sandy shore. When we asked the boat owners, the prices were around €80 for the two of us to go in a boat! Not what we wanted to pay at all. Ekincik is a fair distance away from the tombs hence the enormous cost. We have been there before which made us reluctant to pay out so much money. If we could have sailed there ourselves it would have been so much easier however, the area is marsh land and reeds, our boat wouldn't manage as our keel is 2 meters below the water line. We would run aground. Disappointed, we wandered along the seafront enjoying the cool comfortable temperature as the sun settled behind the hills. The beachfront at the west side of this bay is a Conservation area, and a campsite. Fir trees line the high hills providing a luxurious green canopy for the many tents tucked under them. Birds chirping happily in their homes and in flight, filling the air with sweet music, swooping to the pine needle covered carpet for lunch then taking off high into the dusky sky. Tents fill every possible gap between trees, in the clearings children play with brightly coloured balls while barbecues are assembled ready for the evening meal. When camping most of us carry quite a lot of equipment and kitchen items all making the experience more enjoyable and comfortable. We tend to camp as simply as we can to 'qualify' as a 'camping holiday'. The Turkish families however, bring everything and I truly mean everything. We walk past a 2 meter high fridge freezer powered by a rather noisy generator! The tents they erect are huge, mosquito nets float in the breeze around what appear to be a full double mattress. Rugs in shades of red and blue cover the floor protecting their feet from the many pine needles. Kitchens are fully stocked with pots and pans and delicious aromas, which drift across to the hot coals around which the men gather, ready to cook their meal. The ladies wash, chop and prepare an abundance of vegetables, meat and fish while sitting cross legged in a circle. With their laughter and conversation these people seem content and happy to be together and away from their daily life. We continue around their holiday, two hotels sit near the waters edge lighting up the now darkening sky. Each with their subtle candle lights and soft background music soothing the guests into a sleepy relaxed state. Soft cushions fill chairs and sofas, leafy plants offer privacy between romantic couples and their neighbours. We stop for a drink and of course that essential internet. I hate the lack of communication while at sea and in bays, it can feel rather lonely and isolated at times. Don't get me wrong, there is a massive sense of pure pleasure when not listening to voices, music and phones. However, I also feel cut off from conversation with my family and friends when away for long periods of time. Kevin clearly talks lots so I am never alone, however when you spend 24 hours a day every day with the same person, you kind of run out of conversation. Which is why meeting new people when travelling is so lovely, sharing stories having new discussions and laughing about our experiences, all add an interesting dimension to travelling.
We have our drink and take Zoe, back to 'Kejstral' for a good night's sleep.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
Sailing Kejstral AdventuresRetired and following our dream of sailing around the world Archives
April 2019
Categories |