Departed at 08.55 and the wind has gone, abandoned and alone we switch on the engine. Motoring most of the journey was not our intention, but as I mentioned previously, we need to move on to our next destination. Our route carries us through the silent, calm waters passed the marshlands of Dalyan. We had hoped to see these ruins and tombs, however, having seen them only a few years ago we felt that the cost suggested by the tour guides was just too expensive. Very disappointed, we travelled onwards passed by numerous sandy beaches, hotels and some very idyllic little bays. Shelter in these bays is limited as the prevailing winds tend to power straight into them, leaving boats bobbing around in a rather uncomfortable way. The swell created by these winds, encourages most yacht owners to head somewhere less lively. As the coastline curves around in a wide open bay we begin to see airplanes slowly descending towards the beach. Dalaman airport sits just beyond the sand filled contours, each plane carrying excited visitors or returning locals. Their view as they fly over this area must be outstanding, marshy Dalyan, mountainous Gocek and pretty Fethiye with luxurious blue green waters tying them all together. As we motor, yes, still on that damned engine! .... we notice more and more yacht's around us. Some using sails to capture any breath of breeze, most just motoring sedately, highly aware of their fuel consumption. Sails billow as a slight gust catches them unexpectedly, flapping them gently, toying with the captains desperation to sail. Fethiye bay drifts into view slowly, the local coastguard boat with its very distinctive red stripe on the hull, sits guard against the rocky shore. Most sailors feel a little intimidated by its sight, hoping not to attract its and it's stony faced crews attention. We have been checked on two occasions whilst in this area, both with no problems thank goodness! Gocek is where we purchased 'Kejstral', so we were quite excited to be back in this lovely town. Restricted areas are marked throughout the nautical maps, these spots are where wildlife and sea beds are protected from divers, anchors and fouling. There are also rules for boatees with regard to their behaviour and how we conduct our business while within these waters. Grey water disposal, maximum speed limits and music prohibited on deck are just a few of the sea and costal rules. Only so many boats are allowed within the bay (1112), this includes moorings of any kind. Once at anchor, you may only remain for 11 days. This would probably limit and of course worry some sailors, we however having lived in Turkey for a few years, and have realised that guidelines are there but with no one actually policing them, it is not as scary as it sounds. A humongous cruiser sped past at around 14 n.m. an hour (clearly adhering to the rules!) leaving behind him, a wake mirroring a tidal wave. We turn into this onslaught attempting to minimise the damage, while every other boat around us sound their 'slow down you muppet' horns, we would have blown ours however, it is down in the salon under the map table chair, in two pieces. No we haven't broken it, we just never put it together, not thinking we would ever require a rant at another boat person. In reality we should probably have put it together on day one of our sailing experience, it probably would be worn out by now! Anchoring in 13 meters of water, we gaze around at the huge array of vessels nearby. So many shapes, colours and sizes filling the bay, most of which have people on board, children splashing beside some, others with their occupants cleaning, fiddling with equipment and some just relaxing with a glass of wine. The water is our entertainment, we are absorbed in this ever changing scenery, rotating with the water movement our view is usually 180 degrees around the pivotal point of our anchor. Just as we are dropping our eyelids in the warm hazy sunshine 'Sea Dreams' motors past! Lee and Larry are the New Zealand couple we met in Greece on the Island of Levitha only six weeks ago. We have been in touch since our first meeting, and knowing we were likely to meet again around this location, we called out to them. They dropped anchor nearby and called us onboard their 50 foot Oceanis, ( which is amazing, and they have a washing machine. I am not jealous at all!) what a fantastic chance to get together again. A few hours drifted past as we reminisce and share our latest adventures. They took a slightly different route towards the Turkisk coastline having enjoyed those wonderful Greek islands. A few beers later we returned to 'Kejstral' for a shower and snooze, having arranged to meet later for a meal ashore. Our friends arrived on their tender and dodging the water traffic, we arrived at the wooden jetty outside one of the restaurants. The jetty holds ten or more little tenders and a few small fishing boats, we tie up and clamber onto the shore . It is never easy arriving in a dingy, trying to grab something solid without tipping yourself and anyone else into the water, once you have that solid something, you then have to lean rather precariously over and attempt to secure a rope around it. Once tied on, the tricky part is climbing out of the tender onto a jetty or pontoon, sometimes even just a pile of rocks .....all without getting wet. We all survive the task, occasionally we arrive on shore with soggy wet bottoms from waves or perhaps the passing speedy boats. Then we walk around looking a little bit dodgy while waiting for the wet patches to dry, we do have fun! Gocek bay has three marina's, one newly refurbished to the west, another fairly large Council marina sits in the centre and finally, D Marine Gocek is situated on the eastern edge. Although this area is reasonably busy, it seems quieter than on our previous visits despite the fact that we are here in peak season. Charter boats are still lingering in their mooring, unused, restaurants are scraping by and probably wasting valuable food with fewer customers than they are accustomed to. The seafront is struggling with the current issues relating to Turkey. We are seeing the ramifications of the medias harsh words and negativity, these towns are almost 40% down in tourism and business. When we experience the eager to please vendors and business owners striving to deliver their services in such a friendly welcoming manner, we are reminded of how fabulous this country and its culture really are. We wearily flop into some puffy blue cushions in a pretty seafront bar. Palm trees wrapped in twinkling lights entice us inside towards bamboo furniture with soft padded seats facing out towards the diminishing sun, as a warm glow of colour fills the dusky sky. Boats become silhouettes across the evening horizon against an orangy sky, the effect is beautiful. Lights begin to flicker on from vessels in the water, their reflection glistening and flickering with each passing wave or movement. People slowly appear from hotels and boats, dressed up in their finery for the evening, out into this sticky heat. Couples stroll past clasping hands, laughing and whispering in that young romantic demeanour. Guests are seated ready to enjoy an evening meal or perhaps simply a drink, they relax into perfectly presented dining rooms. The hum of light music floats around our conversation to set a perfect background atmosphere, bringing to life what appeared to be only a few hours earlier, a quiet, sedate town. We chose a local Turkish restaurant for our meal, polite waiting staff attend to our chairs as we select the perfect spot overlooking the harbour. The guvec or oven dish, consists of meat with vegetables cooked in a tomato based sauce, usually served alongside fresh bread, salad and rice, we are ready to have our tastebuds tantalised. Wine is served and napkins placed in anticipation, soft music and gentle chatter filling the air, creating a wonderful evening ambience .
Our food arrives, we are silent, who could want to disturb our experience and culinary delights, clean plates explain our enjoyment and huge sighs of contentment end our meal. We wander back to the tender, we say goodbye to our friends and plan to meet up once more further along the route. What a fabulous day, now sleep.
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Sailing Kejstral AdventuresRetired and following our dream of sailing around the world Archives
April 2019
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