The water was perfectly still, not a ripple or wave to disturb this beautiful bay, boats on anchor others tied to the pontoon, all silent not a sound could be heard. Daybreak is such an amazing time, when nature comes to the forefront of our minds. Two wasps dance around our flag, chasing and testing their agility in this breeze free sky, gradually they take their waltz over our heads high into the trees nearby. Finches shimmer in the unfolding sun, green and yellow flashes catch our eyes as they twist and dive around us, whilst chirping their morning greeting to one another. Small circles form before us in this calm sea, small silvery fish glint and shine as they bask in this gentle heat, a hundred or more shimmy through the perfectly clear water out in search of breakfast perhaps. We soak up these sights and sounds mesmerised by this fabulous scenery and it's plethora of inhabitants. The sound of a kingfisher takes us by surprise, a shrill sound unlike other bird calls often heard near water, they dazzle in blue and orange as they swoop over the trees down towards a breakfast of bugs. We could sit for hours absorbing this tranquil sanctuary, however, the sound of voices and movement begins to filter from our neighbouring boats. Loud yawns can be heard, calls of 'good morning' in various languages together with the opening of hatches and doors, I guess the day has begun. Turtles are on our agenda today, as we spotted none on our journey from Gocek we are a little doubtful of their presence here, therefore today we have a mission. Once fed, watered and clothed we untie Zoe our tender and settle in for a stunning turtle display. Camera in hand, water bottles and suncream at the ready, we have all day to find these ( so far), elusive beasts. Within this bay many cruisers are tied stern to, against the rocks, many more are heading onto their next destination. With so many vessels around I think we have little chance of catching sight of our goal. We linger around the rocky shores, watching fish leap to the surface for insects, crabs scramble under huge boulders out of harm's way as Zoe creates a dark shadow over them. Egrets dive mid flight, down through the glassy surface in search of a slippery snack, but not a single turtle to be seen. We reach a pretty sandy beach where a small boat sways in the ripples and swell, the family onboard sit around a makeshift table, devouring a banquet disguised as breakfast. They wave and call good morning, barely stopping between mouthfuls of juicy tomato fresh bread and olives. Meals in Turkey are a family gathering which last for hours and are accompanied by great conversation and laughter, they are such sociable people. Guests are always welcome to join their meal, at times the families with the least to share, will tend to offer more. We greet them and call 'afiyet olsun', enjoy your meal, they offer us a place at their table, we declined but thank them gratefully. They do, after all get to see me snorkel, what more entertainment could they wish for during their feast! Zoe is abandoned close to shore she is securely tied to a huge piece of sunbleached driftwood, left bobbing in time with our hungry neighbours in their gulet. Our camera and valuables tucked discreetly under towels, we feel pretty safe in this part of the world, of course we are careful, but these wholesome families seem to make a point of watching out for the welfare of others, they care more for their reputation and family values. Up to our knees in the crystal clear waters, we take a moment to savour this idyllic cove. Blue skies, turquoise sea and stunning greenery climbing steadily from the shingles on this beach, reaching high towards the heat of the mid morning sun. As we slid into this cool glassy sea stepping carefully over its rocky seabed, we pull on our masks and ready ourselves for snorkeling with turtles. The sand and rocks below us are perfectly visible through the transparent sea, tiny white fish weave rapidly through tiny gaps, small crabs sidestep over the undulating seabed, we hover above them causing a gentle movement in the water, forcing these small creatures to scurry under weeds and pepples. We swim slowly not wishing to miss a mollusc or fish, but no turtles show up for us. As we surface, other boats arrive taking their space in this bay, anchors are tossed overboard, swimmers dive into this once calm peaceful haven, sending waves and ripples out in great circles around them. We wave goodbye to our spectators, who seem to be consuming yet more delicious food, water melon and grapes, perhaps we should have joined their feast after all! Zoe glides through the busying waters, gulets of all sizes now stretch ropes in all directions across the bay, criss crossing our route. We take off to the next inlet, a more exciting cove with caves arching over the turquoise water, this may be a turtle hideaway..... The temperature is climbing, it surely must be 40 degrees today, we cannot immerse ourselves quickly enough in the luke warm sea, hardly refreshing in this heat but perfectly cooling all the same. We float happily in this salty bath, allowing the mellow waves to wash over our sticky bodies, the seabed is less rocky in this inlet therefore easier to walk across but with very few hideaways and shelter for sea creatures. Dark caves loom over us, water from the hillside trickles through fine cracks in the rock, down into the waters below forming circles and beautiful patterns. We tentatively tiptoe through the cooler more sheltered pools of translucent water, hands streched out before us, as our feet slip on the moss covered stones. The darkness around us feels humid yet cool to our sun reddened shoulders and faces, the sound of water sneaking through gaps in our ceiling urge us to look up. Steady streams follow the contours of each crack and tiny ravine in the walls, glistening droplets of cold water detach themselves and land sharply on our skin, the difference in temperature from outside is incredible. Our eyes accustomed to dazzling sunshine, struggle to adjust to this dark cavern. Grey shadows and shimmering water gradually come into focus, black rocks stand high around us creating a sense of enclosure. The contrast of dark black, cool echoing cave and the brilliant sunshine, heat, blue skies and green foliage outside is phenomenal, we head back out into the colour and warmth. Zoe is boarded once again, still no sightings of a turtle. Lunchtime, so we go back to 'Kejstral', feeling rather deflated we tie Zoe onto the pontoon, and make some lunch. Sitting in the cockpit we munch away, chatting about the incoming boats and our morning swim. Voices seem raised not far from where we sit, as they become louder, we investigate. A family sitting on the pontoon adjacent to us, have noticed something interesting in the water. At first we smile and settle back to our snack, however, soon a small crowd appear pointing and excitedly talking about their find. We gradually ease ourselves out of our shaded comfy cushions to make sense of the commotion. As we step onto the pontoon a man snorkeling swims by waving to our intrigued faces, we look down in his direction to see the biggest turtle you could imagine. It is within a few feet of us! This fabulous reptile is lounging on the sea bed directly in front of us, in only a few feet of water, he occasionally stretches his neck out to nibble the sea grass beside his huge green legs. A shell at least two feet in diameter and beautifully patterned in hexagonal markings protects his body from harm, he swims slowly around underwater, looking for another mouthful of greenery. Kevin runs to collect our camera, I am stunned, to be this close to one of these harmless, prehistoric creatures and watch him through the crystal clear waters of his natural habitat. When he slowly brings himself to venture up to the surface for air, the crowd ( and I) squeal with delight, those green and patterned legs and shell, begin to glisten and brighten in the sunlight, his colours are beautiful, the design on his protective home is fabulous. He gulps for air as his body settles on the surface, big eyes take in our excited faces, his demeanour is that of an old knowledgeable soldier. He almost nods a greeting as if to say ' I know I am old and slow, just give me space to swim and eat' we are totally in awe. Within a few moments he dips his green head and dives below the water his front flippers paddling elegantly through this glassy sea. He settles back to munching and investigating his surroundings slowly gliding forwards, we follow every flipper move. Gradually he makes his way below our pontoon, we cannot take our eyes from his graceful methodical progress, he reaches the opposite side of our pathway. We rush across to ensure we miss nothing, as he reappears we gasp in delight, the glimmering sun highlights beautifully that delicately patterned shell. Slowly he resurfaces enthralling us all with another perfect display of beauty, our cameras must be exhausted and rather full. I am so happy to have experienced this awesome sight, and to stand so close to this fabulous sea turtle, it is amazing. He leaves our little bay with a gentle paddling out to sea, hopefully he will return for another visit, and I will be armed ready with my camera. What a great afternoon, for the rest of this day, we cannot help but scan the waters hoping to catch sight of another sea turtle, for the moment, there are no more to be seen. In the evening as the sun dips down behind the shadowy mountain we take a stroll around this shingle and rocky waters edge. The land rises and falls steeply from one small cove to another, as it descends towards the water, the stones become a thick carpet underfoot, as we climb the sloping hill, dry grass and twigs snap crisply beneath our shoes. Darkness casts a glow as the sun hides from our view, light clouds reflect pink and orange hues across the sea, a gorgeous sunset is complete. Our day ends with a meal on board, and a glass of wine to celebrate yet another amazing day of sights and experiences.
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Sailing Kejstral AdventuresRetired and following our dream of sailing around the world Archives
April 2019
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