Well that was the most annoying nights sleep ever!! Dogs outside on the harbour, barking continuously all night. Kevin got up twice to usher them elsewhere with little effect. Then the mosque calling, then .......... the fishing boat moored next to ours, containing around 5 men, started up with lots of excited chatter. Ahhhh Now that we were awake, breakfast might as well happen too. Our day was spent in Iasos investigating the ruins, castle and immersed ship in the next bay. The archeological site of Iasos was an ancient Carian city which has been excavated on a number of occasions, most recently by an Italian team. They discovered that Iasos was buried under volcanic ash from Mt Thera in Santorini almost 3600 years ago. Since this discovery, the excavation has unfolded an amazing sewage system, protected nicely by the ash. Within the site, we found an amazing selection of fauna and flora. From snakes, tortoise and lizards to woodpeckers tapping happily beside us. None seemed too bothered by the intrusion of their patch. It was a fabulous day, filled with superb sights. The archeological sight is overlooked by the Castle wall perched high above our heads, this was the next challenge. Navigating our way through the wild country paths, not to mention the rather carefree cows, sheep and goats, we stumbled across the most tranquil views of the adjacent bay. The sight of the immersed ship, or rather, its two well preserved masts complete with rigging, was actually quite eerie. We met up with a couple from Canada at the top of the hill, while trying to catch our breath from the climb, (and trying to look composed!) They were also pretty overwhelmed with the fabulous scenery, wildlife and views. They had travelled from the north of Turkey, around Istanbul. Their overall plan was to reach some of the places we had already enjoyed in the South. Feeling rather crispy in the 28 degree March afternoon, we decided to part company and rehydrate in the cafe below.
the track back to the harbour was somewhat vague, and we took a few wrong turnings, however, our rule of thumb....... if in doubt, head downhill, you will eventually hit water!! Passed a few goats, sheep and cows lazing in the afternoon sun, oh yes and the odd snake :( Back on board, and being somewhat sleep deprived (reminded me of my nursing night shifts !!), we decided not to stay in Iasos overnight, but move on to a place called Bogazici. It is only a few miles across the bay, and the inlet looks very pretty and hopefully a little quieter overnight. Very quickly, we had packed up, stowed away and were ready for the trip. within a few minutes we were heading past the gatehouse which highlights the entrance to Iasos beautifully. Once safely passed the rocky outcrop, we managed to unfurl the genoa and gently glide southwards to Bogazici. This passage is usually very busy in the mornings with tankers and fishing vessels, being the afternoon, we avoided the busy shipping lane issues. 8 n.m to go, wind a steady 7 knots and no problems getting into the bay. Anchored in the middle of the inlet, close enough to take the tender across to shore, but not too close to the little fishing fleet tied against the harbour wall. As soon as we were happy that the anchor was settled, we caught up with some much needed sleep. An hour or so later, we ate tea, then took the tender for a trip to shore. Bogazici is a typical Turkish fishing village, unspoiled by tourists (except us!) everyone goes around their daily business, smiling and greeting us as we enter their village square. Young children play nearby with their mums/ grandmas watching. Each evening the fishermen carry out the same routine...... frying sardines in a huge pan for the whole crew, all sitting around the single cooking burner on board, eating the fish straight from the pan with fresh bread and a beer. All this, whilst chatting and laughing and no doubt relaying stories of their biggest and best catches. The task of swilling the decks and stowing nets in preparation for the next trip out, is to follow.. They seem to have such a simple, stress free existance, of course they may tell a very different story. We settled in a little, but rather posh fish restaurant for our evening drink. The steady stream of locals finding a table beside us was amazing to see. For such a small village, a huge percentage of them were in this eatery. From well dressed business types to the local fisherman, sitting happily together, each as chatty and cheerful as the next. A young couple appeared on what looked like a 'date', to our amazement they sat down on the paving stones dressed in their finery, and started fishing!! Anything goes in this part of Turkey, there are no barriers, and no expectations, it is so refreshing to see.
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Sailing Kejstral AdventuresRetired and following our dream of sailing around the world Archives
April 2019
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