What a lovely nights sleep, well, for 110 euro..... you would expect a decent night wouldn't you! Breakfast was simple but very nice, taken leisurely around the pool area of or lovely hotel. We enjoyed our few hours of home comforts before packing our bag and heading off in the car. At least we didn't have to carry luggage everywhere. We topped up with fuel then took the road south to Akrotiri, only a 10 minute drive. Akrotiri is a Minoan Bronze Age settlement on the volcanic Greek island of Santorini. The settlement was destroyed in the Theran eruption about 1627 BC, (perhaps one of the largest in history) and buried in volcanic ash, which preserved the remains of some amazing artwork and Frescos. The story 'Atlantis' is thought to have originated here. The original village began life as a small fishing and farming community and can be traced back to the 5th millennium BC. The village expanded and developed good trade relations with Cyprus and Crete, which has been discovered through the extensive excavations over the last 50 years. The discovery of molds and crucibles, indicate an important centre for processing copper in the growing town. The fact that Santorini mainly Akrotiri, lies strategically positioned between Crete and Cyprus allowed this unique trade to flourish. The town prospered over the next 500 years, the installation of extensive drainage systems, multi storey buildings, paved streets, and high quality pottery indicate levels of sophistication in their abilities as a large settlement. However, this all came to an abrupt end in the late 17th century BC with the volcanic eruption of Thera. The inhabitants were obliged to abandon it as a result of severe earthquakes. The eruption followed. The volcanic materials covered the entire island and the town itself. These materials, however, have protected up to date the buildings and their contents, just like in Pompei. The most recent eruption, one of the most studied, took place around 1613 BC. The ash can still be seen meters deep in areas around the island, more significantly, the eruption changed the shape of the island dramatically. In 1967 excavations began, an archeologist from Athens Professor Marinatos, had a hunch that Theras eruption was responsible for the collapse of the Minoan civilization. Excavations are still, 50 years later, ongoing. The site is fabulously protected from the elements by an enormous construction. Cost of admission 12 euro each. As we stepped inside this building we were transported back in time to a major historical event which was being gently uncovered before our wide eyes. The settlement unfolded beyond our imagination into a town square (actually a triangle) with buildings of at least two storeys on three sides, a walkway of slate led us into the lives of perhaps hundreds of Minoan people. Each wall, step and stone brushed carefully out of the ash take their place in this settlement with pride. These people having over hundreds of years, become accustomed to tremors, earthquakes and eruptions, which brought monumental changes to their lives. On the brink of yet another devastating experience they abandoned their homes with enough time to salvage personal treasures and belongings, before this village was completely engulfed in ash. We could almost feel and hear the panic and chaos as we drifted past each doorway and window, no gold or valuables have been located in these homes, reminding us that time was on their side. Equally no skeletons matching the eruption dates have been uncovered, with this in mind, each visitor and picture captured is relieved somewhat of a sense of intrusion from such an historical and yet devastating event. We took time to read each of the elaborate displays pointing out the nature and significance of buildings, some of which housed weaving looms, pottery and frescos of exquisite taste. The village became alive with each little detail and nugget of information. Items uncovered provide a visual display of their lives and community spirit. From communal ourside tables to pestle and morters these pieces were handled and used on a daily basis over 4000 years ago and we are walking through in awe. To see tourists weaving through these buildings seemed wrong and destructive, however, guides and staff mingled with us taking care to remind us of the fragile state and precious history we had the honour of witnessing. No one took advantage, everyone here seemed to aknowledge the significance of this masterpiece in the making. What I found fascinating was that some of these buildings had been constructed from volcanic rocks salvaged from even earlier eruptions. Nothing is wasted or discarded, even the ash which is so carefully brushed aside revealing these homes is put into sandbags, then placed strategically to support the newly uncovered buildings. The consideration and thoughtfullness of the archeological teams is outstanding, real passion can be felt for this elaborate and painstaking work. A few hours later we stepped back into the searing heat. The beach nearby is named black beach for one good reason...... it is ! Again a reminder of the impact of Thera and the eruption. We bathed our feet whilst gazing over this incredible black sand, volcanic rocks scattered across the scenery. Boats ferrying tourists from here to both the red beach and the white beach, I wonder how many of these visitors take a moment to recognize the significance of what is actually underfoot. These incredibly coloured beaches are the result of solidified lava deposits. The waters around the black and red beaches are significantly warmer due to the lava's ability to absorb heat. (Where did the inhabitants go when they left Akrotiri, were they able to leave this ever changing island completely. Were they just relocated to a higher more northerly town, only to be in the same devastating ash cloud? ) Later in the day we took the road to Pyrgos, a quaint town of the same white stone and steps. Very well hidden, this tranquil piece of beautiful Santorini was quiet yet typically adorning the same qualities of the more tourist loving areas. We strolled through the narrow streets meeting the cats and locals at every doorway. Everyone smiled, thriving from our inquisitive nature, these locals provide amazingly well run cafes and restaurants and seem to be buzzing no matter what time of the day we visit. Little churches appear everywhere, on hillsides so remote and in these pretty little village squares, religion plays a huge role in the lives of the Greek people. ,That evening we took a trip back into Fira, yesterdays visit seemed to be a little uninteresting, perhaps we needed to relook. I am relieved we did as our impression was somewhat tainted by the road leading into this ancient town. As we are not inclined to make hasty judgements, we made a point of wandering beyond the obvious areas and were delighted to experience Fira in a different light. The busy streets leading to the cliff edge are packed with shops, eateries and the most fabulous architecture. Donkeys trundle past led by their rather exhausted looking owners. Then we realise why, the cliff falls away on the north edge into a rocky path descending 400 meters to the small fishing port below. The donkeys are used to transport goods and tourists from the port up to Fira, hmm not sure how I should document my thoughts on this, so I will move on! We ate in a small cafe, those delicious pork filled wraps, they are so good :) keeping our budget in mind, we chose water to rehydrate us. Each little street we entered provided us with charm and beauty, many of the shops were expensively filled awaiting those cash filled wallets and purses. Artwork colourfully displayed in decadent archways, flowers and pristinely dressed vendors line every doorway smiling 'kalispera' good evening to each possible client or consumer. At no time giving the impression that there was an expectation in their greeting, to lure us towards an unlikely purchase. These professionals know if you are a genuine customer before you even reach the doorway, which sounds a little harsh yet it relieves us of the need to decline invitation. Therefore in a relaxed manner we can gaze longingly at wonderful, far too valuable jewellery and gifts without fear or guilt which makes the experience so perfect. We could not possibly finish this final day without a last visit to the spectacular views over the caldera. Each glimpse between buildings each glance over walls provides a breathtaking scene to be treasured and one of the highlights of our two days in beautiful Santorini.
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April 2019
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