We had a dream, it was only a dream..........but then reality kicked in and made it all real!! Our friends Lee & Larry asked us to be part of their team on their beautiful yacht, travelling across the Atlantic at the beginning of 2018. We were delighted, honoured and extremely excited by this massive challenge. As crew we would be joined by Lorraine, another British skipper who Lee & Larry had become friends with in 2017. 31 December 2017 Uk to Malaga, Spain Our coach journey brought us from our home town of Paignton into Bristol airport, then a 6 hour sit in until our 09.00 hours flight. lorraine presented herself in Starbucks looking slightly more bubbly than we both felt! Finally boarding our Ryanair flight a little late, we had to step out into an icy wind and a snowy runway before the metal windproof door slammed firmly shut behind us. A few screeching children accompanied us to the warmer climates of sunny Spain. Snow covered mountains spike into the puffy white clouds which provides a spectacular scene to distract the charming child screamers. Our first 24 hours from home have been entirely uneventful despite my flu symptoms, fortunately the labrinthitis I had experienced 24 hours ago, has settled. Not sure how I would have tolerated flying with a swimming head and nausea! On landing in Malaga a coach took us down to Almeria then a short taxi ride deposited us in Almeriamar where we finally met Lee and Larry who are the owners of Sea Dreams. We have known them for about 18 months having met on a tiny remote Greek Island, which is where this whole amazing adventure began. Now we're are finally beginning the journey, which seems unbelievable as this last 18 months have passed in a busy flash. We have all been back to our respective homes for work, family and Christmas, now these new challenges are looming ahead of us. Our first evening consisted of catching up, discussing the following weeks weather and sea state and route mapping. The provisions list is growing with every second, planning for three weeks worth of meals and fluids is hard to picture. Fortunately these three women are used to planning for their own voyages, so our combined brains meet the challenge with no issues. Our biggest constraints are timing for the fresh goods, storage and the capacity of our fridge and freezer. The boat is a 50 foot Benneteau Oceanis which has massive storage spaces, yet with five people on board the space fills quickly, wet weather gear, stowed alongside flip flops and summer shorts. Part baked bread squeezed beside cereal packets and baked beans, UHT milk line the floorboards next to water bottles and shoes. But by the time all has been stored and packed away, our home sits a little lower in the water than it did previously! Meals are being prepared while tanks are filled, gas bottles sourced and ropes tidied. The maps have been scoured while wind direction and tides noted and with each days predictions considered our journey is set to begin on 1st January 2018. Excitement and apprehension fill the air, with a few last minute hiccups in the bow thruster department! Which has since been resolved by Larry following his head inside the engine compartment finding stray wires! New Years Eve is taking shape, just not in the usual predictable way. Sunday dinner is booked at the 'Stumble Inn' a very well visited bar with a good menu and reasonable prices. Tonight, will be our last meal out until we reach Last Palmas in the Canaries in around 6 days, hence the cooking frenzy in the gallery of pre prepared chilli, apricot chicken and a Morrocan chicken. 2 January Almiremar to Benalmedina (Anchorage) Yesterday we woke bright and early, buzzing with the excitement of the forthcoming journey. The wind has been an ongoing issue, our weather app has been lying to us which is rather unfair and leading us into a false sense of security. The sea state has been pretty lumpy yet not as wild as we expected, therefore the decision has been made to set off at lunch time today. At 12.40, the last of our ropes were let loose, ignition started and with barely a breeze in our hair, we set off into a beautifully calm sea and crystal clear sky. Gradually over the afternoon with a few dolphin visits and into a spectacular sunset, the sea swell grew and the wind took over our thoughts, climbing to around 40 knots, we were gripping onto wet cold chrome rails whilst the spray drenched us in a freezing shower. Throughout this weather changing, we planned for our night rota, taking two hour shifts allowed for plenty of sleep and rest, however, by 10 pm we realised that this was becoming less likely. We punched into a now 2.5 to 3 meter swell with ever an increasing wind force. Soon Larry decided that for our first night, we were struggling to maintain speed in these conditions, therefore we should alter course towards land and aim to shelter in a quiet, fairly protected bay between Almeria and Malaga. Having managed a 68 n.m passage at an average speed of 6.9 knots, we called it a day, hot drinks and food completed our cold wet evening before we all climbed into our respective bunks for a good night sleep. Today we left early into an ever increasing wind until again we are crashing into a very angry sea. With the wind on the nose and Gibraltar still 10 hours away the decision is made to head to a small sheltered bay at Benalmedina. Anchor deployed we settle down and enjoy the views. 3rd January 2018 Ok so yesterday turned out to be a slight flop, we stopped in a secluded bay for an overnight reprieve in the harsh wind and swell. This morning the sea was calm, slight gentle ripples on the water reminding us that no doubt out in the open water, we would resume last night's hammering. All too soon we were back into the 31 knot winds with a bouncy sea, the icy wind had us all wrapped in coats scarves and gloves. It makes eating and drinking a slight challenge, I have to say! The sky maintained it's beautiful blue colour, yet the spray reminded us just how cold the daytime temperatures really are. Our mainsail unfurled perfectly, despite an early reef, 25 knots howled around our chilly heads, a further reef required pretty soon afterwards. Even the dolphin evaded our company today, bobbing between fishing boats and fisherman's nets and lobster pots, we wound ourway back out into the open sea once again. Wrapped against the harsh wind, we yelled our discussions, only catching snippets of any conversation, cold fingers clung to our collars protecting our goose bumpy skin. Our flu symptoms persist, Lorraine now beginning to cough and splutter joining both Kevin and my chorus. Throughout the day it became apparent that this wind and swell was staying put, our choice now was to head for shelter near Torremolinos or attempt the additional few hours to Benalmadina. Our regular soakings and windswept hair took its toll and by 3pm we were ready for a break, 8 hours covered 47.2 n.ms which was pretty disappointing, however the reality was that comfort takes presidence! Anchor deployed by 4pm into a depth of 3 metres, swinging gently in this fabulous sheltered spot, we settled with a coffee and beer before sleep took over. However, the wind had other ideas, our gentle lapping waves escalated into yet another battering which gradually pulled 'Sea Dreams' towards the rough jagged concrete, outer harbour wall. Our evening meal of Morrocan chicken was rudly interrupted by our need to vacate the now unsafe spot. The plan was to seek shelter on the west side of this same concrete wall, which then became clear, was an inadequate spot. The marina therefore became our next point of safety, while Larry took the windy helm, Lee navigated us past the array of green buoys. Lorraine and I battled with fenders ready for the mooring whilst Kevin fought with stern lines , another challenge in 30 knot winds! As we rounded the marina entrance we found ourselves aground on an unmarked sand bank, thank goodness for those bowthrusters and a lot of careful handling. As our radio call to channel 16 went clearly unanswered, we nudged our way through the green flashing lights and splashy swell, finally coming towards the fuel dock. Without assistance from shore, an uncertainty follows, do we tie up here, will we be expected to move as soon as we moor? Fenders ready, lines in hand, Larry brings us closer to this solid wall of concrete, rather disconcerting as we pitch and roll ever closer. A couple of attempts later we manage to loop a stern line around the shore cleat, just as the port authority guy appears and assists with the remaining constraints. Finally secure, our documents are taken for inspection and a fee of €36 is handed over, with great relief we settle back down for the evening. Very soon afterwards the coast guard boat thunders into the marina, bringing a small yacht alongside him, a possible rescue mission, it turns out, the engine had failed in this scary wind, not a great situation to be in. At least we are safe, warm, fed and watered! We will see what the weather holds for us in the morning. 4th January Sailing into Estepona Following a great night's sleep, even with the slight swell slapping our hull, we all surfaced in a somewhat lethargic state. The wind had continued throughout the night, which gave little enthusiasm to our planned journey today. By 10.30 am however, washed dressed, breakfast demolished and a quick sweep up, our Captain Larry had decided that yes we will leave, we should attempt to hug the coastline for a less troublesome passage onto possibly Estepona a pretty marina close to Marbella. What a difference to yesterdays hammering, the blue skies look stunning with the sun glinting and flashing onto the shimmering sea. Lapping waves lick the salty hull and gently splash across the bow, we relax into a calm sedate day quite unbelievable in comparison to yesterdays drama. Gannets dive bomb the icy watery in search of a shiny snack before settling down onto the gentle swell to watch our boat skim through each curling wave. Once again our flu symptoms persist and take their toll on our tired weary bodies, we need to feel better soon before the journey takes us much further. There is nothing worse than feeling drained and looking forward to curling up into a lovely warm bunk, even though the scenery and coastline around us is a magnificent sight. Snow covered mountains stand proudly behind hotel filled beaches, tall fronded palm trees sway precariously over the traffic filled roads, those holiday destinations bypass us in quick succession, awaiting their summer makeover for those many excited guests. Today we can actually appreciate the stunning sea, without the increasing winds and swell, we enjoy the warm lingering sunshine despite the icy breeze around us. Brave little fishing boats bob briskly around us, gathering their many empty nets, if this coastline mimics the other Mediterranean areas, very few fish loiter in these waters. The African coast entices us on the distant horizon, orangy skies absorb our thoughts of wild animals and vegetation, but for now the cold air and layers of clothing bring us back to reality. Many buoys linger in front of us, creating a huge colourful obstacle course, we weave carefully through, mindful of the sunken nets and risk to our propeller. By 4 pm we could clearly see our goal, Estepona Marina, a very attractive sight. The land between Malaga and Benalmadina is crammed full of hotels, sky scrappers and holiday homes, here in Estepona the bright zany buildings have dwindled into tasteful less touristy dwellings. A sedate feel to this beautiful town marks a change to the less British expat culture. Even the marina provides that classier more upmarket air, local fishing boats zip across our path as we head for the visitors pontoon, this busy waterway has room for everyone......We hope! On channel 09 we inform the marina of our intention to stay one night, this ensures a stress free mooring and a little assistance with our ropes. Having offered our documents and paid our dues, we are directed to our nights mooring, once tied up securely we head for the showers and food, Lorraine however, feeling worse than earlier had to abandon the meal and succumb to sleep. A great end to a much more sedate day, looking forward to seeing Gibraltar tomorrow! 35.4 n.ms today 5th January 2018, Mosquitoes, the bain of my life Mosquitoes, the bain of my life whilst abroad, zipping past my head with that terrifying high pitched zzzzz, yes they are out, and ready to eat........Usually me! We all surfaced, coughs and splutters mark another day of flu filled bodies, Lee has finally caught up with our symptoms, would have hated her to miss out on this joyful experience! Today we are going to Gibraltar, around a four hour journey, with the winds light and swell gentle we should be there just after lunch. By 10.00 we have untied and begun our journey, dolphins keep us entertained skimming the waves and crossing our bow, such fabulous animals to watch no matter how frequently we see them. The sea is calm and glorious, very few boats can be seen as we leave the marina at Estepona, yet as we draw closer towards Gibraltar the horizon is littered with huge cargo vessels, some at anchor, others slowly making their way towards the straits. We take turns on the helm watching for obstructions and maintaining our course along the coast out of the more lively swell. As we edge closer towards the infamous rock of Gibraltar we begin to make out the obscure shapes of the now busy batch of vessels. One of which appears to be a helipad, yes a ship with a small helicopter landing Circle, no bigger than the actual vessel, awesome! Rusty great hulls of black, red and blue scatter themselves across our path, Panama, Tenerife, Singapore and other distant shores draw images of these far flung countries and the possibilities of their contents and cargo. If only each vessel came with a speech bubble above with details. Of course the AIS and radar give an idea of the routes and tonnage, but I kind of want more! The rock begins to take shape out of the hazy skyline, purple and brown deep ridges scratch down the face, little buildings come into focus which we assume are military related, perch neatly on a small ledge overlooking the whole southern tip of this coast. Some high structures which appear to be hotels line the eastern edge towards the beach, with this massive overbearing stone looming above their delicate position. Look out posts and battlements create a patchwork effect with a gun turret strategically placed on the highest tip, years of protective behaviour by the British Navy have left their mark on this amazing 425 meter high sight. Tunnels worm their way deep down into the rock keeping the Iberian peninsula safe from harm and invasion, hidden pathways and gated entrances nestle into the stoney surface which are now a huge, tourist drawing attraction known as At Michael's Caves. We plan to explore possibly tomorrow, as we know the winds will limit our next step of the journey, we also have the perfect opportunity to stock up on provisions too. As we reach the wreck filled coast around the rock, our depths begin to fall to 10 meters, half expecting to see these long lost sunken vessels under this dangerous sea. We round the headland, marked by the mosque, strangely positioned on the southern tip of this huge landmark. As we follow the land gradually more and more of these huge cargo vessels come into view, one by one we bypass their steel painted hulls. Anchor chain way bigger than any we have seen before, secure these monsters in place. Pilot boats zip between these great ships assisting with maneouvers and positioning in this huge bay connecting Algeciras to Gibraltar, ships dock, load and unload their many goods and cargo loads to and from many countries worldwide. It is a fascinating place with more ships than I have ever seen, bringing the world closer, making it smaller with every connection made. We find our marina of choice La Linea, on the Spanish coast just outside the border and across the runway from the great rock. Our radio call as ever is unanswered, no clue as to where we are expected and which pontoon we should tie up to. The wind is escalating once again, throwing confusion as to where is the safer mooring, eventually we chose a spot ready with ropes and fenders for our landing. Once secure we again alight with our formal papers for the port authorities, then settle down for an evening of rest and watched the film Captain Philips, perhaps not the ideal movie considering our Atlantic crossing! Average speed 6.9 overall 68 n.ms 47.2 n.ms Gibraltar 6th until the 10th January 2018 Our last two days have been filled with sightseeing around Gibraltar, given that the winds are due to pick up pretty harshly this afternoon for the next few days. There is very little point in attempting the next leg of the journey just yet. A grey cloud filled sky masked the peak of the great rock not far from our mooring in La Linea marina, we took the opportunity to move Sea Dreams into an appropriate pontoon space in this short window of calm weather. Our coughs and flu symptoms persist however Kevin and I are beginning to feel better today, everyone else seems at the peak of this awful illness. Lee and Larry decided to stay on board, wanting to complete a few tasks on the boat between coughs and sneezes. Lorraine, Kevin and Iopt for some fresh air anda good walk into town. Close to our pontoon are showers toilets and a laundry, all perfectly maintained and clean, an essential in any marina. Surrounding us are finger pontoons filled with boats of every kind catamarans, old style fishing boats and of course yachts of every kind. Some with occupants most left abandoned for the winter season, winter covers flap wildly as the breeze picks up, halyards slap against masts, ropes squeak and rub with the constant ebbing and flowing of both the tides and general swell. As we leave the marina on foot, (fortunately everything is within walking distance) we are greeted by the road separation cordons for the border control agencies. Quite an unusual scenario, watching cars filter through lanes towards the official check in point, most are local vehicles on their way to work presumably. Pedestrians form queues, passports in hand awaiting their turn to enter Gibraltar, it feels very odd to be stepping over the border into UK again! This routine must become a little monotonous for the locals, yet it is their life, passing through security each morning and evening in order to get to work, shop and meet friends. We slip our documents into the machines for scrutiny, before bypassing the border control staff, they seem very focused on the task despite the constant flow of traffic. Once through we relax, recognising that this is actually part of Gibraltarian lifestyle and that no one is bothered by this inconvenience to their day. The footpath takes us past a bus station and taxi rank, all advertising tours of the rock, meeting the apes and offering spectacular views from the summit across the bay and beyond. We can hardly bypass the opportunity to see the sights in comfort, however we decide to see the main town center first. In order to do so we must walk across the runway, yes the actual runway which separates Spain from Gibraltar, another totally mad scenario. Gates at either end highlight the danger of stepping onto the live runway, encouraging pedestrians to walk quickly, the signs suggest the possibility of imminent incoming aircraft. One assumes there is plenty of warning before such an event......... The runway is rather short I can only assume the pilots are highly skilled, given that there is sea churning up at either end of this tarmac, cargo vessels also sit at anchor on either end, clearly unpurturbed by the constant threat! We up our pace somewhat yet everyone else casually strolls across the open windswept runway until reaching the safety of the opposite barrier, cars, buses and motorbikes also seem oblivious to this unique stretch of road and it's dangerous overhead potential. The town is filled with apartment blocks, busy roads and lots of people, much busier than I had imagined for January. Both Spanish and British go about their daily lives together in this unique little European hub. We find a very chatty Carlos who wants to take us to the apes and caves, how could we refuse this lively offer! We clamber on board his battered minibus not wishing to imagine why it has so many dents and scratches, but as soon as we have seated ourselves, we get a glimpse of the cause of the mishapen bus. Tight bends skim the mountain curves, narrow roads slither between rock face and the clouds surrounding us and to make matters worse, there are yet more vehicles coming in the opposite direction. This isn't scary at all! Our first stop is the cave of St Michael, a natural limestone underground delight, beautifully lit and perfectly enhanced by the accoustics from orchestral music. What a spectacular sight, stalagmites and stalactites fill this enormous cavernous space which we wander through in amazement. Fortunately the tourists are few and far between given that it is only January, therefore we stroll through these hidden chambers with little hindrance. Outside we step into the grey clouds however the outstanding views of this huge ship filled bay and sprawling town below, we can hardly complain. The airport lies below us separating Spain from Gibraltar, a stark difference in the building designs and structures clearly indicate old and new. From this vantage point we also witness the Mediterranean sea almost joining the Atlantic, what a fabulous sight and one that highlights the next stage of our journey. Back in our beaten minibus we find ourselves perched on the mountain top, a friendly group of rock apes are our next stop. Apparently this little tribe are pretty sedate in comparison to some of the elder and more ............lively neighbours. Within seconds of our arrival two small bouncy long armed buddies are manipulating our wing mirrors, not sure they required such forceful adjustment myself! They grapple with the drivers partially open window, their long furry orangy arms reach into his jacket pocket, clearly in no doubt where the treats are hidden. Our chatty Carlos manhandles these little tykes from his slightly more battered bus and deposits them onto the bonnet, each furry long limbed ape bashes happily at the metal surface creating a few more small dents. We watch as he encourages each tourist to hold out their hands for the monkeys to leap onto, with peanuts he entices them to sit momentarily for photos before they bounce away, adjusting the wing mirrors one more time. Kevin takes his turn holding one of the smaller apes, just before it leaps from his arms it leaves a lovely deposit of brown/ green poo on his lovely new waterproof jacket, delightful! Barbary macaques or rock apes seem to dominate the sightseeing in Gibraltar, however there is so much else to impress the huge visiting crowds, our tour bus with driver Carlos, has decided to take us to the Great Seige Tunnels constructed over a period of around 200 years by mainly the British army. These man made tunnels form perhaps the most impressive defence system ever designed, by use of brute force, sledgehammers crowbars and pickaxes before gunpowder became a less tedious option. Before long, these tunnels housed guns, hangars, ammunition stores, barracks and even hospital accommodation. An incredible testament to the workforce who continued throughout the great Seige of 1783 achieving 370 feet in length, which was later extended by a further 33 miles during the second world war. Each tunnel has been carved into the limestone walls high enough to walk through, with an increase in diameter where the gun turrets house their cannons. Galleries were constructed with openings designed originally to air the lengthening tunnels as fumes from the digging became more hazardous to the workforce. These openings became an additional resource for gun placement and strategic lookout posts. Walking through these vast caverns allows us to immerse ourselves in a sense of great achievement for these hard working troops. The floor sloping downwards easing our feet deep into this dark pathways, lit today by power cables running the length of each tunnel. In their tunneling days, light would presumably be by torch / candle making their task even more challenging. Openings within the outer wall allow us to glimpse the extent of this peninsula, way across the border into Spain, what a vantage point for the troops, of the north side. Moving around towards the eastern edge we can see the Mediterranean sea for miles, again a spectacular lookout post. On the western side our view is towards the straits of Gibraltar and the entrance, or exit to Europe, nothing would bypass this magnificent rock without creating an investigation, therefore a fantastically placed defence location. Within these caves and tunnels models of infantry men depict scenes of a war enveloped land, gunfire rings in our ears while cannons blast around us. Many soldiers lost their lives during these dark years, however this museum enlightens us and the many visitors to the extent these brave and hardworking men went to to protect their land. We stand in awe, gazing at each scene of wounded men, cannons being reloaded and digging out of further tunnels, the dim light around us suggests a very sombre era. Outside as we emerge into the bright sunlight, we recognise the challenging circumstances in which this great rock took shape and had such an impact on our history. Quietly we step back onto our battered bus while Carlos chatters on about the rock height and changing weather, which of course brings us back to the reality of today and yet more apes dangling from our bus extremities! As we head back down towards the town centre, the sun is warm on our faces we gratefully pay our fee and leave Carlos to his waiting excitable group of guests. Our next area to visit includes Ocean Village, a newly constructed land mass which has been reclaimed from the sea. Stunning new apartment blocks dominate the horizon while neat flashy restaurants and bars line the waters edge. In January as you may expect, most of these establishments are closed for the season, some do have one or two brave customers shivering in their beer gardens. Along the waters edge in front of some apartments are inland waterways with small speedboats tied alongside. Their own jetty and boat, this must be pretty costly! A huge casino and hotel finish this area, not just any hotel, but a floating hotel, well to be more precise an old cruise liner which has been renovated into a luxury five star hotel and restaurant complex. What an amazing idea, it fits snugly between the yachts and pontoons taking over the whole horizon, but what a unique feature. Palm trees sway in the breeze as we continue our walk along the seafront, very few people come out to sightsee and join our little tour. The winds continues to whip around our ears with collars tightened and hats pulled down further around our necks. Our journey should be well under way by now, however, as you know.......There is nothing we can do but await the correct conditions for our next leg towards perhaps Morroco or the Canaries! 10th January 2018 Our poem The sails are open the journey has begun Our spirits have lifted, this hasn't been fun Too many days secured to the shore Come on weather, we expected much more. Rain wild and heavy, winds touching 40 knots This was not on our agenda, we only brought shorts! Colds coughs and sniffles have dampened our mood This adventure should get better, it's going to be good. Food has been plenty, fluids have too Lots of calories to feed all our flu Freezing cold walks to the shower blocks I even adorned my sandals and socks! Now heading south towards warmer weather Our layers should lessen as we start to un tether Five days at sea, seems a little daunting for me Shift work at the helm in the dark, I'll have to see. So far we have bonded, if only over tissues Our little family have had no scary issues We will no doubt begin to gel whole lot more As we haul out these sails and abandon the shore Larry's long hair is blowing in this breeze Oh no, Lee is having yet another sneeze Kevin is sitting with rod in hand Fish are his goal, since we left land Lorraine is dozing, catching up with lost sleep I snuggle up in a warm cosy heap Many long hours of sailing lie ahead We will all look forward to our warm cosy bed The straits of Gibraltar are our next hurdle With tides and wind to make you gut curdle Cargo vessels slice neatly through all this swell As we pitch and roll, hmmm I don't feel well. Today we leave port aiming for the the Canaries By the time we arrive, we'll be much more hairy Blue skies and sunshine are what we all crave Of course a good shower and clearly a shave! Wednesday 10th January, time to go! It has been 5 long wet and windy days here in Gibraltar, we only planned a one night stop over! Our flu symptoms are easing gently thank goodness, it's like being on a hospital ship, I have never seen so many tablets ingested in a short period of time. First stop is the supermarket, provisioning is essential, however, feeling so rough has its advantages, we haven't depleted the already full cupboards too much. Cereals, cuppa soups and crisps. Noodles and Nacho's, bread butter and biscuits. Fresh fruit and veg, pasta and rice the list is easily sped through. So far our bill has been around €100 per person which is pretty good for 10 days of food since our arrival. As we troupe back to sea dreams we collect some euro from the nearest cash point. Back on board the stores are put away, gash taken out and personal items stowed. Lee heads over to pay the marina costs which turn out pretty reasonable for a five night stay, including water and electricity. Fuel is our next purchase, we motor around to the Gibraltar marina, as we are currently in the Spanish one, fuel is cheaper as it is tax free. On our short journey there, a couple of training yachts practice their sail manipulation in front of us, with the wind at a steady 12 knots, they ease each white hull across our bow before coming about behind us a few moments later. We watch as these guys are put through their paces, reminding us all of our respective training courses, sails up, then down, reefs here and reefs there. A few man overboard scenarios throw in for good measure too, ahh the memories! As we near the fuel dock a very considerate port pilot in his speedy vessel cuts us up, leaving a great wave for us to maneouver around, Lorraine skilfully turns us into the wave while the perpetrators wave hello. When we reach the fuel dock a few staff members appear to inform us that there is no power onshore, therefore the pumps are out of action, great now what? Possibly a 5 hour wait, that is not an option therefore, we motor back into the Spanish marina to successfully fuel. Then we can finally leave Spain, off into open waters and the beginning of our next leg. Cargo vessels litter the bay ahead of us, twenty to thirty can be seen within our planned route. It can be somewhat tricky trying to spot anchor chains and anchor balls, which give you some warning of their potential movement. Giant metal hulls pass over our heads as we negotiate the vast obstacle course ahead, rusty chains and bulbous noses protrude from each vessel. Peeling paint clashes with vivid blue water, yet the glinting sun shines beautifully onto the sea in front of us. Our coats are open and hats still tucked away, so good to feel the warmth and comfort from those rays, we all need some heat now. Through the straits we follow another yacht, we seem to be taking a similar path, we stick to the Spanish coast trying to minimise the wave impact which is very comfortable at the moment. Unfortunately the wind is completely on our bow which means pulling in those huge sails and restarting the engine. Gradually the further through we get into the straits, the more lively the sea becomes with the tide against us our speed drops dramatically, but, we must push through. It is the only opportunity to get out into the Atlantic with wind in a descent direction. Huge cargo vessels chase behind us at up to 17 knots of speed, quite scary when we are averaging 5-7 knots. The tide pushes against us as our speed dwindles, our next move is to cut directly across towards the African coast, through the vessel separation zone. This could be worse in the dark, fortunately we have enough daylight hours to allow our passage across this motorway of ships, and there seems to be a generous gap in vessels. We cut through the waves and now as the tide and waves are less obstructive our speed slowly increases, we are making progress once again. The port of Tanger on the African coast begins to take shape, with the dwindling day light together with the street and port lights the town gradually comes to life, albeit at a distance. We crane our necks for camels, we gaze for giraffes but to no avail, not only is the sun setting but I cannot imagine too many giraffes visit the port! Our first overnight sail fell short on the team side of things, Kevin and Lorraine retired early feeling awful, Kevin with sea sickness, Lorraine knackered from too much coughing. I stayed on watch until eleven pm, Lee and Larry finished the night between them. Bad on our part, however, they also didn't want to wake us. Must do better tomorrow. 11th January 2018, Kevin myself and Lorraine leapt from bed, ok I say leapt.........I leapt aware that I had slept longer than intended. Lorraine crawled and Kevin dragged himself into the cockpit. We coaxed Larry and Lee to get some rest which was much needed. Our mainsail was unfurled with two reefs, assisting us with speed and stability, the engine chugged on. Kevin was sent back to bed so that left Lorraine and I, she was struggling to stay awake. Very few vessels past by our boat, no dolphin, whales or any other exciting wildlife came to say hello. It can be quite a lonely feeling with no one to talk to. The sea swell was enormous we decided probably 3-4 meters in height, fortunately the waves were a good distance apart but that doesn't stop the rolling from side to side. Before long the main was whipping, making that horrible cracking sound as the wind quickly finds and refills the sail. We decided we ought to bring it in for safety and it's protection. I centralise the boom, allowing the sail to smoothly wind into its protective housing. Lorraine refurls the canvas while I maintain tension on the out haul. We continued our shift until Lorraine needed sleep, by this time Larry, Lee, Lorraine and Kevin were all dozing. I just enjoyed the slowly warming sun on my face, still no ships or birds, fish or dolphin. Later when a little bit more awake, Larry decided we ought to attempt the sails again, fuel is costly and unfortunately battling through the tide and wind yesterday had used more than hoped. The foresail was gently unwound, followed by the main, these sails are huge and very heavy duty. It takes quite a wind force to keep that magical curve that we all hope to achieve. With only 11-13 knots on our back quarter, it took a bit of chopping and changing of position before they were gliding us through these still huge waves.We managed about three hours under sail before Larry noticed that the longest vertical baton was falling out of its sleeve within the mainsail. I maneouvered us into the wind while he gingerly climbed up onto the coach roof, struggling to keep us straight, while Larry fought with a flappy massive canvas was not easy. We tried turning away from the wind also, this time with success. Quickly problems can arise, it is just tackling the issue safely and with care that keeps us safe in this wide expanse of sea. We all took turns to stay on watch, meaning that sleep was less of an issue, however, eating and drinking does become a bit hit and miss. You couldn't possibly cook in the swell we were experiencing, in addition not all of us felt like eating. We had some prepared meals which could easily have been heated, but if half of the team feel ill at the thought, it would be wasteful. Thank goodness for plastic bread, toast and sandwiches are easy, cup of soups and of course biscuits, maybe tomorrow if more of us can manage, we may eat a normal meal. As the clouds drew a blanket across our warming sun, we all began adding the layers, first the waterproof jacket, then a hat, before the waterproof trousers were squeezed into. Gloves and scarves completed the cold windy weather gear, it should get warm ......... Shouldn't it? Over the evening our shifts came and went with better synchronisation that our previous disaster. An air of tranquillity comes over the darkening evening, lights appear from all around our seemingly lonely waters, as the light fades to nothing a few stars twinkle at us, one by one their numbers increase. Before long we are asking at the most spectacular sky of glinting, glimmering stars en mass, I can safely say that I have never seen such an incredible sight. There are clouds gathering over the horizon, which I have no doubt will obscure this fantastic sky, but for now we count the shooting little lights, knowing that there are plenty more magical nights ahead. Day three at sea, 12th January Gibraltar to Lanzarote I think we need a bit of routine today, it may help those who are feeling rubbish, and give a boost to the other tired lot. Overnight was a more orderly shift pattern, Lorraine and I completed a 1.15 to 05.15 shift, Lorraine did drift off to sleep quite a lot, but at least I had someone to ask about lights and any concerns. I think she is feeling a bit better too, it has been an awful flu, not one that we wanted or needed. At 05.30 I stripped of my life jacket, undid the layers of clothing and climbed into the warm, snug patch recently vacated by a more 'normal' Kevin, he seems more perky, sea sickness and dizzyness more under control. The wind was climbing to 14/15 knots, allowing the sails to be opened once again. As I wriggled into a stable, non rolling position, I could hear the first ropes being pulled out, the sails are open,, what a great feeling to have this powerful wind drive you towards your destination and the engine being switched off. Such peace and calmness overcomes the mood, a relief to know that a little more fuel can be saved. I sleep in the roller coaster of waves, listening to the splashing of the sea spray on the hull, the background whistle of the wind turbine and the occasional coughing fit from various parts of our home. I wake around 09.00 feeling good that sleep finally decided to comfort me, Kevin had been on shift with Larry until early morning, when he clambered unceremoniously across my snug body, I knew it would soon be time to think of the day ahead. I am determined to achieve a few tasks, one being either a shower or strip wash (dependant on the sea state) then breakfast, once wrapped in nice clean clothing, then hopefully sweep up and feed and water the team if I can coax them. I had to resort to the strip wash, if I had particularly wanted a head injury I may have chosen the shower option, not sure it is worth the risk! So now for breakfast, hmm we appear to be rolling rather a lot, this could be interesting. If I have cereal, it needs to be absorbent, don't fancy milk slopping everywhere. Toast .....well that could result in me leaping and diving to retrieve the toast as it catapults from the ejecting machine, also a no. Weetabix it is, kettle is on for the others, coffee and tea prepared, as I catch each slithering, sliding cup before it crashes into something. The tricky part, just need to get all of the drinks in the cockpit without giving myself an impromptu shower! Gradually Lorraine climbs out emerging into a sunlit sky, even she fancies some food, or is it a need rather than want? Kevin appears looking more ........ Kevinish, I organise food for him also. So the plan is working so far! On deck Larry has decided it is time to try out the spinnaker pole, the boys are on the coach roof grappling with the pole, attaching ropes to every conceivable point, while Lorraine gets yelled at to pull this rope, tighten that rope, winch this sheet and tie off that one! By 12.00 lunchtime it is attached, we are sailing with the foresail alone, moving at a good 6-7 knots, the wind clearly didn't want to assist us which was quite disappointing. It stayed in situ for 18 hours, before collapsing. Lee woke by 2pm we were all on deck for the first time on this trip, something is working. Kevin attempted to entice some fish, however the lovely (cheap) rod purchased in Almeriamar fell to bits, a few boy moments of fiddling meant a makeshift rod with reel was now our entertainment for a while........Still no damned fish! Ham and cheese sandwiches for lunch which I do believe we're consumed by everyone......another result! In the afternoon we all slithered off for quiet time, each finding our own little spot to relax, (as well as maintaining a watch) the sun was gorgeous, warming our skin, tantalising our cold white flesh. The swell seemed to calm to around 2 meters from the 3-4 that we tolerated over yesterday. Our shifts were organised for the night, Larry 10-12 Lee 12-2, Kevin 2-4 myself 4-6 then Lorraine 6-8, it worked well, perhaps need an 8-10 pm shift too, otherwise Larry tends to linger on watch more than he should we appreciate his responsibility but he must rest too. Overnight the sea was gently rolling, wind sitting just right on the starboard quarter, and still allowing us 6 knots of speed. That was until the spinniker pole detached from the foresail, where we rushed up to undo the rope configuration so perfectly set up earlier. From that point the main carried us through the night, however motorsailing from then on using 1200 revs which at least reduced fuel consumption. Kevin took his watch at 02.00 but I couldn't get back to sleep, joining him at 03.00 hours, just in time to see a fabulous display of dolphin join our passage. They were almost luminous, jet streaming through the frothy sea, disappearing under the bow with millimeters to spare above their silvery backs. These beautiful creatures kept us company for an hour and a half leaping and lunging, diving and dipping, I found out later that Lee had been accompanied on her shift earlier. Our very strange phenomenon happened at around 05.00 hours. Picture the scene..........star filled sky, virtually no breeze to speak of, 5 knots if anything, the mainsail held in place with a preventer rope (stops the boom swinging) Our speed averaging 6 knots on a heading of 230 degrees south west. Dolphin playing quietly alongside us. I became aware of a cargo vessel on our starboard side, quite a distance from us, and following our direction of travel, therefore no threat at all. Checking on AIS ( automated identification system) I noted his distance from us as well as his heading. Just as I switched across to the navionics, navigation screen, I noticed another vessel pop onto the AIS screen. It showed a class A cargo vessel travelling at 10 7 knots ahead of us and following our heading of 230 degrees south west, which again is no issue. However, what was really bizarre was that it was only 5n.m from us, directly in front, therefore we should be seeing an array of lights from him! Kevin shot up to the bow I kept a close watch on the navigation but we couldn't actually see him at all. We decided to adjust 5 degrees to port which would not only keep us away from him, but it might highlight us to this invisible ship. We then switched onto radar which clearly picked up our earlier vessel on the starboard side, but nothing (other than our little entourage of shiny bobbing dolphin) Totally confused we kept a close watch, Kevin peering precariously over the pullpit, me, scanning both our port and starboard aspects,, this ship was nowhere to be seen. Yet was apparently still in front, travelling at 10.7 knots, and should be moving much faster than our 6 knots. More worryingly, the AIS system was showing us catching up with him!! Our eyes were focused, nothing. The radar which appeared to be working properly, showed nothing (except our flippered buddies) but at this point we were now, according to the screen, sitting on top of him. Then gradually the AIS began to show him slip into position behind us, as if we had overtaken this invisible huge cargo vessel.........Spooky, a ghost ship using AIS, I suppose it confirms that not all electronic equipment can be relied upon. Class A cargo vessel, Mighty Sky was now way behind us............. Apparently! I think we need more sleep. Day 4 at sea January 13th Feeling refreshed we are all up and lively, well except Lorraine, she is up, just not too lively. Still feeling rough she is really struggling and has needed lots of sleep. Lee has begun to improve, having informed us that her snot is no longer a gorgeous green shade, but becoming a more clear mucous colour. With my nursing background, I have found comfort in those colourful descriptive words. Last night the team shifts worked well, the wind wasn't quite playing ball a it has kind of died during the night. The engine has been on since midnight, using precious fuel, but the sails have been out regardless, a little flappy at times until finely tuned to perfection. The sun has been obscured by a thin grey veil of cloud, warmth was limited so, still wrapped up in jackets and gloves we relaxed, attempted fishing, and generally had a more chilled day. We have all showered changed and feel good, only another 212 n.m until we reach land, Lanzarote is our next stop, mainly due to our need for a healthy team, in addition, the limit of fuel in the tanks, should we continue with minimal wind, the fuel situation could become an issue. There are 100 litres of fuel in cannisters which Larry and Kevin begin to refuel the main tank with, using a filter they spot some small chunks of debris, an alarming sight for any sailor! Diesel bug is a massive worry, a slimy residue that developes when a fuel cannister or tank are left with a small amount of air at the top, as diesel contains a small amount of water already, when the water and air come into contact, the bug has the potential to flourish. It is treatable with the appropriate additive, just not ideal when on a long passage with no chance of dealing with the little critter. So with a little bit more filtering, they were happy with what was eventually put into the tank. Hot dogs for lunch courtesy of a more healthy sounding Lee, yummy! By 4pm Larry was keen to take advantage of the growing breeze, Larry Kevin and Lee all set about bringing the foresail out into the 10-12 knots of wind, followed by the mainsail and by 4.30 pm we were under sail. A few clouds began to gather showing signs of a possible squall, (a windy possibly rainy period that can cause quite a panic if not recognised early enough) I was just beginning to chop veggies ready for tea when cushions, hats and bits and bobs were deposited down below, a few near misses between my onions and mushrooms! Clearly readying for the weather change, I put a bit of speed on with food preparation. Can you imagine the mess when our lovely vehicle decides to roll sharply? Just as the loose items stopped descending on me below deck, the wind grew to a lovely 16 knots. They team were summoned for food, and just in time as the rain splattered heavily onto the rolling deck. Our omelettes were consumed speedily allowing for hands back on deck, which was rather lucky. Great big splashes assaulted the deck while the wind began to change our previously gentle roll into a more lively forceful roller coaster. Over the next hour or so, the wind moved around to our stern, pushing us nicely, with both sails out this can lead to the foresail losing wind as the main enjoys the brunt of this wind. Lorraine and Larry bring in our now flappy sail, leaving just the main with a preventer rope attached for safety. At this point we all head for sleep leaving Lorraine on the first watch, our watches start really early as the sun seems to set at such an early 5 pm ish, meaning that darkness falls way earlier than we realised. Unfortunately with the constant slapping of waves on our hull, glasses chinking in the cupboard, and all sorts of unidentifiable sounds, sleep becomes problematic. As you switch off the lights our senses heighten to sound. Gentle tapping of ropes, vibration from the tight ropes on the mast, fenders bouncing on the hull and simple rolling of bottles or tins in storage. Even a small bottle of nail varnish gently tapping on the side of its box, these noises begin to fill the silence that you come to expect when snuggling down under your duvet at home, in a boat this can make or break a sane individual. Our shifts were smooth, very little overnight traffic, wind between 14 and 23 knots, sailing beautifully. Day 5 at sea, Gibraltar to Lanzarote 82 miles to go until we reach a shoreline, Lanzarote is our destination, fuel being our first reason, second reason being Lorraine probably needing to see a doctor, I think it is still flu but she is coughing way more than anyone else has. She is struggling too much and may need antibiotics just to knock it on the head. Since we put the sails out at 4.30 pm yesterday, our engine has been redundant, the wind has been kind and hovering 14-16 knots on our starboard quarter or stern, giving up to 9.1 knots of speed. At 12.45 we see land, exciting feeling after these last few days!! Exactly 4 days since we left Gibraltar yet still another perhaps 12 hours away. The sea continued to bounce us around, which again causes us an issue with drinks and food, we might buy some drinks bottles for refilling when ashore, you need plenty of fluids and I doubt anyone has had enough over the last few days. As we travel down along the west coast of Lanzarote, the landscape emerges from a cloud lined horizon. A small island rises from this deep ocean before Lanzarote itself comes into view, it's jagged contours remind us of its volcanic history, a great eruption between 1730 and 1736 led this uniquely shaped group of Islands they look almost prehistoric. Deep ridges flow down it's western side probably from water erosion over many years, very little sign of vegitation in the stark grey looking land. Harsh peaks and rugged shapes rise from the waters edge of the land, huge crashing waves thrash against the rocky outcrops highlighting the power of this lively sea. Soon, towns begin to take shape on this otherwise barren landscape, little clusters of white buildings which spread in spidery shapes from a central point, two then three little towns come into our view. This Island is known as a winter sun destination by the British, and where we are heading appears to be the main port on the island. Lunch, beans and toast, nothing like comfort food when the wind is whistling through your layers of clothing. Trying to support myself against a moving galley whilst holding a razor sharp bread knife, can be an interesting, near fatal experience if not careful. Feet wedged firmly against counters, grasping rails between each life threatening slice of bread. The butter container slides gracefully across the work surface as Lorraine slickly prevents it's speeding escape, the gently bubbling beans are held secure with clamps to the piping hot saucepan. As I skate to catch the ejected toast from the toaster, we roll once more in the opposite direction. It's like a workout for whoever is cooking, or washing up, you almost need a sleep once the challenge is over. That goes for any task onboard in these seas, relying on having a good balance, something to grab hold of and not taking risks and chances. Using appropriate safety equipment when on deck, especially at night is a priority. Life jackets are worn in rough seas with a clip on length of safety strap which is then attached to the cockpit or whichever part of the boat you are working on. In an attempt to keep us safe and well during our journey, we all try to stick to the rules, Lee and Larry of course have reinforced these points, ensuring that we recognise the need for a safe team. Lee organised tea, apricot chicken, it was around this point that we found out about Lee's birthday, today! She had kept that well hidden, we wouldn't have allowed her to cook tea had we known this. Larry poured Her a glass of wine, (forbidden so far while at sea) while the television was set up with the film 'Grease' for her to dance and sing to whilst creating Happy Birthday Lee 😁 x While sitting at the stern on watch, in the dead of night, the inky black sky enveloping the earlier scenery, I can see an unusual comparison to my nursing night shifts on ITU. The lights around me are evidence of the lives we protect whilst on watch. I glance from the wind index which gives me it's direction and it's speed, towards our heading which at present is 230 degrees. Then I look on both port and starboard sides before checking that nothing is bearing down on us from behind. The sails are scanned for leaching and flapping while I consider their position in relation to the wind direction. Should lights appear from any direction, the AIS system is addressed to note what vessel, it's speed and heading, then at what point it will reach us........More importantly will it miss us! This is when I recognise just how Larry and Lee must feel with regard to their level of responsibility on board. Ensuring that 'Sea Dreams' is in perfect working order, sails are intact and ropes and rigging are pristine. The fuel and water must also be sufficient, and the safety/ navigation equipment is present and functioning. Clearly with a crew who have their own knowledge, skills and experience from sailing, Larry as Captain must listen to points of view, take heed of opinions and respond to questioning. However, our roll as crew must respect his authority and respond to his wishes and orders. The two, Captain and crew, must both gel and communicate without disagreement and arguments, this balance takes time to achieve and hopefully it will be a smooth transition for both parties during our journey. This again reflects the position of a nurse in charge of an ITU, where staff on shift can be skilled and experienced, yet must have a leader to address and oversee the whole situation, troubleshoot issues and overall make the 'correct' judgements. A weird but interesting comparison I have to say! At 01.00 Sunday 15th January our route brings us around to the southern point of Lanzarote, towards the Rubicon Marina. A total of 613 n.m covered in 4 days and 12 hours, not the mileage we had hoped for per day but we have arrived! We climb on deck, Lee and Kevin pull in the trusty main sail which has propelled us through these last 32 hours without a hitch. Ropes at the ready, fenders tied tightly, navigation zoomed in to the marina and watchful eyes for the all important Marina marker buoys. Larry eases us through the slalom of obstacles, rocks, yachts on anchor and buoys before we come alongside the reception dock. We are warmly greeted by a very jovial character by the name of Sebastian, "hola" he calls as he reaches for our airborne ropes. Terra Firma 😁 Our few days in lovely Lanzarote, 14th to 18th January 2018 As we moor against the pontoon, touching land after almost 5 days at sea, the mood is good. Sea Dreams is secured with bow and stern lines, with a spring line for good measure, fenders are eased into place mainly around our beamiest chunkiest section. Once Larry is content that we are tied up sufficiently, the beer is snapped open, we celebrate our arrival, together with our ability to cope with the issues and obstacles throughout our trip so far (merely a test in comparison to the next leg!) Our first day here comprised of sleep, bad food (ie chips and alcohol) and basically relaxing in the warmth of the bright sun. However, there are always tasks to be carried out, cleaning, washing of bedding and clothing, stocking up on essentials and of course ensuring our ill health is addressed. Lorraine disappears to the local hospital for a checkup, mainly to ensure a chest infection is not brewing, which of course could be disastrous on this next passage. Larry attempted to source some new rope, recognising how easily chaffing can happen. Our main sheet developed two areas of fray in this last two weeks, understandable, given the lively conditions we have encountered. Our next plan is to sail the 24 hours to Last Palma's on Gran Canaria, this is where our final preparations will take place for the 2500 n.m journey to Barbados. Our possible date of departure is of course dependant on wind and sea conditions. At present the winds are a swirling 30-40 knots, not a good time to set sail! Wednesday 17th afternoon is our proposed date.........So far. Lanzarote to Gran Canaria 18th January
The plan initially was to set sail on 17th depending on that temperamental wind.............You guessed it, the wind speed was just a little too forceful, so we all went out for pizza instead, there are some benefits to high winds after all! A very nice Mexican style restaurant, great food and fun company, then came back to Sea Dreams to watch a film. 'Keeping mum'. The wind fluctuated throughout the night, together with the swell inside the marina breakwater, meant yet another squeaky rope night. By morning we had our plan to push off (literally as it turned out) around 4pm, Larry completed a few tasks following a visit to the local chandlery, a gleaming, chrome filled Aladdin's cave, full of expensive goodies. Behind this building was a sail makers workshop, perfect for those alterations, repairs and custom made additions that all sailers love. A few items were purchased which allowed the current chaffing ropes to be fed through rollers and no doubt some other bits and bobs which had Larry grinning like the proverbial Cheshire cat. Kevin wound tape around the shrouds where our foresail sheets had rubbed, again to limit the rubbing and wrecking of ropes. The strain on each rope, clutch and cleat can be enormous when these massive sails are fully filled, obviously the higher the winds, the greater the force. Not only are those ropes and fixings under stress but the forestay, backstay and shrouds must withstand these conditions too. Should anything break or become damaged, it would be an extremely difficult situation to redress and of course, our safety could be at risk. While the boys fixed, we cleaned up, swept, emptied bins and readied for leaving. Lee had her head in the freezer with the hairdryer (don't ask) while Lorraine cooked for the evening meal, not what you want to be doing whilst sailing if it can be avoided. By 3pm we were all on deck, engine started and appropriate ropes loosened/ let go, as mentioned previously, we were somewhat pinned to our lovely pontoon by the wind, but with a little maneouvering, we were off. Fuel first, the fuel dock is pretty low in the water, therefore when you steer your 50 foot boat alongside, it is a little tricky to actually see said pontoon. We tied up eventually, the wind which so helpfully pinned us against our earlier spot, was now pushing us from the actual jetty we needed to moor on to, so inconvenient! Soon we were free, untied and on our way. Ropes wound and stowed, fenders detached and tidied, while hatches snapped shut and sealed. A fabulous feeling to be out into open sea, we nimbly glide around a little group of sailing dinghies, their brilliant white sails fluttering in the afternoon breeze, they tack almost in unison in response to their instructor, before taking off in their varying directions once again. Our wind speed sits between 16 and 20 knots, on our starboard beam, perfect opportunity to unwind those lazy sails, well, they have had 3 days of rest. With a good reef in each, the main is unfurled first, adjusted into position before the foresail is unwound, knowing that the wind could escalate, accounts for the cautionary reefs. Should we pull out both sails fully, the higher wind force could pull us over much further than would be comfortable or safe with. We aim to complete this journey with the full team of five! The sea state as we watched Lanzarote diminish in size, is relatively calm considering the winds over the last 24 hours, therefore it came as no surprise that within a few hours we were rolling around once again on a 3 meter swell. Fuerteventura sat on our port side, volcanio shaped hilltops pierce the thickening grey clouds above, these uniquely shaped Islands are a blend of black, brown rock with minimal vegitation in sight. In the occasional burst of sunlight, these spectacular crater like dips can be seen on the mountain peaks which look incredible. We begin to wrap up in our coats and gloves yet again, despite the warmth felt on land, the breeze out at see can be quite a shocking contrast, it will warm up soon hopefully. Tea is a great bolognase cooked earlier by Lorraine, taking turns at the helm ensuring that everyone eats before our watches begin at 8pm. The deep swell, churning sea and consequent rolling movement meant that sleep for those not on watch, was not sound. Our 96.7 n.m journey took 15 hours, 14 hours of which were carried out under sail. By 04.00 am the lights of Last Palmas began to outline this little Island, the port itself is a very busy dock for cargo vessels, merchant ships and of course yachts. This is the amalgamation area for yachties planning their passage across the Atlantic Ocean, most have already set off and arrived at their destination, the Caribbean. Some are just finishing preparations ready for that ultimate goal, top of their bucket list journey 2600 n.m of open sea, no land for around 20 days and an experience we will either cherish or want to forget! By 06.00 hours we find ourselves weaving between these enormous ships, pilot boats and red/ green flashing beacons. All of us are on deck armed with ropes, we gently and skillfully glide into position, Kevin jumps onto the pontoon to catch our lines and tie us firmly to the reception dock on Last Palmas marina, Gran Canaria. Time for a beer, well, what else is there to do while awaiting the marina office opening!
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