As there was no wind on leaving the bay of Ekincik, we didn't rush 09.45 I pulled up the anchor to set sail.....ok motor! The wind evaded us the entire 2.30 minutes, how frustrating as once you have made that change from a motor boat to a sail boat, all you really want to do is unfurl those huge sails and be carried through the glistening waters to your diesel free destination. Not today 😑 we did however have an exciting few minutes when the trawling fishing line was pulled whizzing out behind the boat. A fish ??? Or perhaps a plastic bag or seagull as they sometimes can have the same effect! Not today, this occasion was marked by a silvery coloured torpedo shaped tuna, he wasn't huge but it was our first tuna. Kevin grappled with the reel pulling him closer while tuna did everything within his power to avoid the inevitable. I grabbed Kevin's new net, (birthday present from our great friends) previous one was lost in the deep blue sea between Didim Turkey and Samos Greece on a particularly windy wild wave filled bouncy sail! We caught a tuna 😁 We arrived in Disibilmez Koyu ( bay) at 12.15, to the most tranquil beautiful clear waters. A volcanic sand beach rose from the turquoise sea creating a stunning foreground which led onto a rocky tree covered hillside, what a beautiful picturesque bay. A small wooden boat lingered by the shore, patiently awaiting it's occupants who were floating on this salty calm sea, languishing in its coolness and surrounded by the idyllic scenery. It had to wait some time! As our journey here had been completely windless we were hot, scorching sun with no breeze can be unbearable at times. We jumped in, well to be exact, Kevin jumped in, I on the other hand would never 'jump' in. I gently slither one cold inch at a time down each of our steps until my breath returns then I let go, there is not even a splash. I am a woose and am trying to improve, I am quicker than I used to be! There are a couple of things I have challenged myself to do or improve upon. Not least learning to sail, considering neither of us have sailed ever before until March 2016, we have come a long way. Getting into the sea more quickly and with less oohs and grimacing is one yet to be achieved, the other is snorkeling. Yes I have reached this age and only snorkeled twice, both times in Mexico and both occasions wearing ........ a life jacket. Today is my first training day I am not a good student, I am a woman who does not like to be taught especially by my husband, this could get ugly! Today I am listening carefully and following instruction, I am determined to master this. I do have a fear of deep water and just need a calm sea, no waves and nothing scary nearby like boats or people. We start by swimming to the shore which is only 100 meters away ....a good start ( it was deep!) Once on shore I managed to mask up and begin to get the snorkel comfortable, it is a bit fiddly. You all know this, you are probably experts at diving!! Well for pathetic me, I took a bit of time adjusting and faffing until I was ready to dunk my head into the sea, a huge step for me. Feeling confident that no water will sneak in through the equipment, I tentatively stepped into the water before gently starting to swim. I struggled to trust myself to breath and that Kevin would not disappear after a shiny big fish! Soon I was off, swimming away from the shore and towards the rocky caves and boy what a sight. Cuttle fish hung in rows near the surface giving me a fabulous chance to sneak up on them, below on the sea bed numerous fish varieties mingled with the new coral, popping out from crevices in rocks and burrowing into the sand when aware of our shadowy presence. Crabs sidestepped past in puffs of sand while whitebait lingered around our masks, the water was perfectly clear. Further towards the boat we swam / snorkeled, before I unwillingly stepped back on board, what a new fabulous experience. I was hooked 😁 Zoe our tender was in need of some fun so we took her around the caves nearby, they were amazing dark wet high roofed caves creating shadows on the surface of the water below. We dipped into the cool crystal clear glassy pools, just incredibly hot when coming out into the heat of the sun. A small beach next to our anchorage housing a pontoon with restaurant / bar which may be our evening drink stop. The restaurant staff even came over on their boat to invite us for drinks and perhaps food later that evening. We ate tuna for tea lightly panfried with salad and potatoes, yummy! We did take Zoe to the bar, only a hundred or so meters from our boat, we travelled past a small rocky outcrop which had a rather amusing chef character made of wood, planted firmly on the top! The pontoon was a little more stable than it looked, made out of plastic pre moulded boxes linked together with rope. It wobbled terribly when walked on but was actually pretty ingenious. We staggered along our moving footpath, tentatively picking our way over each box, and that was before alcohol, imagine what we would be doing afterwards!
On solid ground, well a sandy shore to be exact, we followed the stone steps up onto the restaurant balcony. The view was beautiful, mountain silhouettes on either side of the bay entrance, the sun setting lazily over a calming sea and a sandy beach overlooked by this old gnarled wooden balcony. We stopped to follow the ever decreasing sun, we are so fortunate to have these very special moments. Our host attempted to entice our taste buds, unfortunately we had already demolished that fabulous tuna, therefore a drink was all we required. Beer was 15 tl or about £4, which as I have previously mentioned, is double what we would normally pay in our hometown, Akbuk. The food however did look beautifully presented and the smells emanating from their hot steamy kitchen were fabulous. The diners, six in total tonight were clearly contented with their fill each handing over clean plates with smiles of pleasure on their faces. Our evening came to an end in yet another lovely, welcoming establishment in another spectacular location.
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Woke in the night to the sound of creaking ropes. Kevin spent ages trying to sort them before we even settled for sleep, earplugs did the trick we slept perfectly after that. It was a very humid morning, lots of dew soaking the decks, ropes and our towels which were left limp and wet from our shower last evening. The sun was slowly emerging from the mountains around us gradually drying each dew drop and surface. Goats could be heard bleating loudly from all over the hillside an occasional one seemingly left behind by his family, therefore baa ing at the top of its croaky little voice to attract some parental attention. Breakfast was taken sitting in the cockpit, watching the world drift by, boatees gently coming to life around us, a few swimming some wandering out of their cabins bleary eyed and ruffled from their nights sleep. Some of our neighbours make their way to the restaurant for either breakfast or just some freshly baked yummy bread. The fishermen on their little wooden boats nearby sat busily sorting nets and equipment from their nights catch, a woman dressed in full covered clothing organised breakfast for the workers, I wonder if these woman have similar thoughts to us European women, "Don't leave that filthy net next to my clean table" or "wash your hands before you touch that food" I wish I understood a little more Turkish, it could be rather amusing 😁 We just loved the setting aqua green / blue waters, wooden sunbleached rickety pontoon leading to the rustic wooden restaurant, rocky hillsides with a sprinkle of stone ruins finished off by a citadel bearing the Turkish flag, what more could you ask for.................well, I do like a good supermarket!!! We completed our usual morning ablution, packed away all items lying around, closed hatches and readied our ropes all in anticipation of our journey today. Our sail should be 32 n.m. Despite the light winds predicted we expect to have our sails filled by lunchtime due to the Meltemi winds. These winds come from a high pressure created over the Anatolian plateau and Balkans, which then meet with the low pressures found over eastern Asia, thus creating a turbulent wind which begins around 11.00 am and subsides normally as the sun sets. As the land cools the high pressures drops, therefore by the evening, the wind generally calms. For this reason in Turkey and some of the Greek Islands, the wind may not reflect what the weather report has suggested. We let loose the pontoon lazy line, dropped our stern ropes and we set off. We had 6 knots of wind which means our mainsail did most of the work, the Genoa just flaps like mad, it isn't great when the wind is less than 7 knots. The breeze escalated throughout the day until the Genoa was happily curving gracefully with that powerful force, we accelerated gently taking us on route to Ekincik at 5.5 knots of speed. When the sailing is gentle we are able to actually use the travelling time, as well as manipulating the sails to optimise their function, we can have drinks, eat, read and write. Unlike when we are travelling at 6-7 knots and the boat is healing over on its side, then you just perch on a spot away from the waves while clinging onto anything solid. Food and fluids are not an option at this point. We usually attempt to plan ahead, get lunch ready in advance, ensure it is easy to eat food and that it will be quick to tidy up, but ..... some days the wind and waves just take you by surprise, today is pretty easy sailing. I write or read but Kevin struggles with this as reading or writing means looking down, for some, this is not good and can lead to sea sickness and balancing issues. Kevin likes to fiddle as men like to do, he will play with the sails trying desperately to enhance their performance then he fiddles a bit more. His confidence and knowledge have really flourished over the last few months, I on the other hand am getting there, bit by bit!! Ekincik is not the prettiest bay, quite open to swell too. We anchored easily into sand at a depth of 7 metres but the breeze and swell were a little off putting. We swam to cool from the overpowering sun but soon the water became a bit too lively. Zoe our tender was taken ashore as went in search of a boat trip to Dalyan. Dalyan is a town nearby which is situated on a marshy river, alongside this town are the ancient ruins of Kaunos We thought perhaps we could go and see the marshlands which lead to the tombs high on the rockfaces then follow the river towards Turtle Beach where apparently, turtles hang out and lay eggs. Zoe is abandoned on the beach while we head towards the many little trip boats lined up along the harbour, adjoining the sandy shore. When we asked the boat owners, the prices were around €80 for the two of us to go in a boat! Not what we wanted to pay at all. Ekincik is a fair distance away from the tombs hence the enormous cost. We have been there before which made us reluctant to pay out so much money. If we could have sailed there ourselves it would have been so much easier however, the area is marsh land and reeds, our boat wouldn't manage as our keel is 2 meters below the water line. We would run aground. Disappointed, we wandered along the seafront enjoying the cool comfortable temperature as the sun settled behind the hills. The beachfront at the west side of this bay is a Conservation area, and a campsite. Fir trees line the high hills providing a luxurious green canopy for the many tents tucked under them. Birds chirping happily in their homes and in flight, filling the air with sweet music, swooping to the pine needle covered carpet for lunch then taking off high into the dusky sky. Tents fill every possible gap between trees, in the clearings children play with brightly coloured balls while barbecues are assembled ready for the evening meal. When camping most of us carry quite a lot of equipment and kitchen items all making the experience more enjoyable and comfortable. We tend to camp as simply as we can to 'qualify' as a 'camping holiday'. The Turkish families however, bring everything and I truly mean everything. We walk past a 2 meter high fridge freezer powered by a rather noisy generator! The tents they erect are huge, mosquito nets float in the breeze around what appear to be a full double mattress. Rugs in shades of red and blue cover the floor protecting their feet from the many pine needles. Kitchens are fully stocked with pots and pans and delicious aromas, which drift across to the hot coals around which the men gather, ready to cook their meal. The ladies wash, chop and prepare an abundance of vegetables, meat and fish while sitting cross legged in a circle. With their laughter and conversation these people seem content and happy to be together and away from their daily life. We continue around their holiday, two hotels sit near the waters edge lighting up the now darkening sky. Each with their subtle candle lights and soft background music soothing the guests into a sleepy relaxed state. Soft cushions fill chairs and sofas, leafy plants offer privacy between romantic couples and their neighbours. We stop for a drink and of course that essential internet. I hate the lack of communication while at sea and in bays, it can feel rather lonely and isolated at times. Don't get me wrong, there is a massive sense of pure pleasure when not listening to voices, music and phones. However, I also feel cut off from conversation with my family and friends when away for long periods of time. Kevin clearly talks lots so I am never alone, however when you spend 24 hours a day every day with the same person, you kind of run out of conversation. Which is why meeting new people when travelling is so lovely, sharing stories having new discussions and laughing about our experiences, all add an interesting dimension to travelling.
We have our drink and take Zoe, back to 'Kejstral' for a good night's sleep. We left the harbour at 10.05, arrived at 12.30 no wind again! Loads of boats in these waters, feels great to have company. Some beautiful scenery on the journey to Bozuk Buku, passed Symi on our right side. Turned into the inlet and found a perfect bay just on our left. First pontoon and restaurant is said to be the friendliest and reasonably priced in the boating guide books and news articles. The staff came out waving their red flag indicating where we should go, then helped us tie up. They even provided a lazy line, brilliant!! What a stunning place, one of those wow, take my breath away beauty spots, I highly recommend it. Waters crystal clear, fish swimming around. Donkeys and goats by the shore and a couple of fishing boats tucked quietly in the corner. The citadel or castle was just above the Alibaba restaurant and makes for a spectacular entrance to the bay. Once secure we relaxed while planning our afternoon, first stop the castle, bit of a rocky path winding up the hillside. Huge stone outer wall comes into view as we reached the top. The castle wall is huge and stretches all around the headland what a massive construction. The wall is all that can be depicted between the rockface and trees. Stunning views greet us as we walk the perimeter wall, catching glimpses of the deep blue sea and gulets manoeuvring into position. The wall has no buildings nearby so possibly just a protective sight when the enemy approached. We make our way back down to the shoreline where the restaurant staff greet us. They seem very polite the menu is simple and prices are good so we shall return this evening for tea. Swim time, sticky from our walk / climb we take to the cool clear water for respite, it is gorgeous. We chill out on the bow in the shade, I read and wrote while Kevin thought he would try a spot of fishing, what he did catch were just a bit too small to keep. When pulling the line back out of the water, at times the hooks were completely gone, possibly bitten off by something much bigger!! He kept trying, we caught sight of a huge green / brown speckled looking thing that appeared to be responsible for our hook depletion. Each time Kevin put in a line the bait and hook were taken and by very gentle, sharp teeth !! One of the locals suggested a Chinese fish, not good for eating may be the culprit. We also spotted some fluorescent blue fish which swam in a good sized shoal. He caught nothing else. Up to restaurant for chicken dish really good, two beer and two chicken meals 76 tl or £19 not bad at all. Retired to 'Kejstral' for glass of wine and chill. Fabulous place to be. Today is a cleaning day and as I have previously talked about our excitement at having water on tap ..... I will not bore you again but .....yay water!!! We are also plugged into shore electric that is just as amazing, when you have been on board for a week or so, relying on the solar power ( which is fabulous) but we use 12 volts which does not power some equipment. It is a massive assistance to charge the engine and domestic batteries fully, we can also plug other things in too, computers hand held tablets, razor, hair paraphernalia and phones. The moment that shore power light is lit on our control panel we race to attach everything we can find, how sad are we! It also means that once disconnected we have lovely full batteries on everything for the next day or so. Most boats have an inverter which converts the 12 volt boat power into 220 volts, meaning we can plug in normal everyday items. However our inverter which converts ( 12 volts DC into 220 AC) is only small 300 watts so is practically useless! Another item to be replaced on our list of jobs for next year :( So, we are plugged in, wired up and electrified it feels great. Meanwhile the water is flowing happily into our water tanks from the shore supply, this means boat washing and laundry time. Kevin tackles the outside while I perspire profusely inside as all the hatches must be closed ( especially when Kevin has the water flowing!) He starts at the bow with a soft brush scrubbing gently everything which can get salty from the sea. Which is pretty much everything ropes, winches, chrome and all the fiddly bits on the deck. You would not believe how much the salt damages ball bearings inside winches, ropes become stiff and non compliant and salt can rot any material on the deck, covers and cushions spray hoods and the bimini all must be hosed off. I am perspiring unhappily below, I damp dust everything from the forward cabin walls, door and floor right through the salon until I reach the really difficult part ........the bathroom (or head on a boat) I usually need air by that point so hopefully Kevin is done with the soaking and switched off the hose. I emerge into the fresh air sweat (sorry, perspiration) running down my face looking really attractive...........not! When the neighbouring boatees stop for a chat, hmm bad timing as ever, I must look like a hobo :(( Our neighbours were a family from England who had hired their boat complete with skipper ( Italian) They chatted asking where we arrived from, how long we were here and where was our next stop. A very nice pleasant group of people who had to watch me wipe sweat from my face and neck for the entire conversation, charming. They did speak again, I was a little more talkative on the second occasion and probably looked somewhat more acceptable too! Back to the bathroom, the shower in here is fantastic, most people who set eyes on our shower cubicle are slightly jealous. It has a wooden seat so we ageing sailors can perch and hose down in comfort. Additionally we can wash feet with ease as you can imagine. It had a glass door and it is my favourite part of 'Kejstral' my pride and joy. Then there is the toilet hmm not so great, unlike your lovely toilet at home, this does not flush easily. They are designed to draw sea water into the bowl to flush then that water plus your personal waste is hand ( yes I said hand) pumped into a tank. They work very efficiently but are a bit of a pain to use. When we go ashore and just press a button or pull a handle to flush toilets in the normal way, we get quite excited we even chat about it to other boatees! The floor in here is a stippled effect, non slip material which is an absolute nightmare to keep clean. Being white it amplifies every dirty splash or mark and I won't even mention the short curly hairs!! So on my hands and (now stipple effect) knees I scrub this 1.2 meter by 700 meters of floor, dripping a little perspiration onto each clean surface as I go. Once complete, the bathroom ( head) is out of bounds for as long as it can be, just so I can walk past and smile at it for as long as possible. Kevin however does not recognise this, without even putting on those hospital plastic shoe covers, he just wanders in then wonders why I look like a seething, bee sucking lunatic when he emerges! The cleaning is over, we are hot therefore the afternoon is spent trying to find an appropriate place to swim. Bozburun is not a beach town, it is of course on the water but there are no areas to just jump in. Most of the seafront has been taken over by pontoon's and decking adjacent to bars and restaurants, therefore in order to cool off we must buy a drink or food. Not what we wanted, so we just walked through this very pretty town watching the locals going about their daily business. Shops bustling with frenzied activity as new produce is delivered, customers eyeing up their purchases before they are even unpacked onto shelves. Bozburun is clearly a busy, popular and in demand town, especially with sailors. For the rest of the evening we read, listen to music and relax as the sun snuggles down behind the mountains allowing the sticky heat to gently subside. Today a short sail of 3 hours 20 minutes to Bozburun. We left at 09.45 with a slight breeze just not enough to put out sails :( lovely scenery passing Symi (one of the Greek Islands) on the way, have to cross into Greek waters for short while. Little bit of swell but no wind to speak of therefore motoring most of the way. Plenty of other boats passing, large expensive gulets and lovely cruisers. As we enter the long bay towards Bozburun we see loads of boats all tucked into little pockets of winding coastline. I have never seen so many at anchor, it looks fantastic. I am sure not all are in use, possibly where the gulets await their bookings. Loads of cruisers though, a lot of money's worth!! What a beautiful coastline, so many bays with crystal clear waters just waiting for people to take advantage. We near the harbour a little unsure if there will be space enough for our little 'Kejstral, sure enough lots of room and someone on shore ready to assist with ropes, really helpful. We tie stern to with no difficulty at all, always a good feeling. There are some yacht's and cruisers already settled here. What a pretty harbour, water and electric readily available, just need to see the cost!! Straight away we go ashore for some lunch and see fee prices. To our surprise the harbour guy informs us it is 50 tl or £12.50 per night including water & electric, bargain we decide to stay two nights. Our lunch was not as straightforward, we fancied a durum, a wrap with chicken and salad, normally around 8-9 tl. Much more expensive here, 20 tl they wanted to charge, so durum off our list. We opted for a gozleme, a savoury pancake instead 7 tl each, £1.75. It was perfect and a great price. A few supermarkets were busily serving a huge amount of customers, most were from boats. (The give away was the amounts of water and wine being purchased) an excellent business to have here. We had a giggle while waiting to be served, an English group of three couples debating whether six rose and six red wine would be sufficient or should they add six white too, the stresses involved in sailing are enourmous !! I collected some items then back to 'Kejstral' for rest. In the evening in order to acquire Internet we locate the closest bar to our boat, with the hope of it travelling that far. Our choice of bar was great, very friendly staff who wanted us to taste the delicious fish, we stuck with the beer at a good price. Then wander back to 'Kejstral' to rest and read ( Internet not good enough to reach us). However, with a beautiful star filled sky who needs internet! Early night. Set off at 09.40, wind expected to drop over the day. Sails out early both Genoa and main. Sailed for an hour and a half alongside three or four other yacht's. Our sail configurations varied yet we all left around the same time and travelled in that similar format until each peeled off in their own direction. Our destination was at a bay called Kargi Koyu ( Koyu means bay) As we rounded the headland towards the bay the wind completely disappeared motoring the last hour or so. The journey time took 3.5 hours despite the lack of wind. The bay was lovely, quite sheltered, deep at 14 meters all the way into shore virtually. A few yacht's two large gulets and a couple of cruisers scattered through the bay. Three or four restaurants could be seen and loads of people on the beach either swimming or reclining on numerous sunbeds. Canoes drifted between boats and swimmers floated idly in the crystal clear waters not wishing to exert themselves in this glorious sunshine. We climbed in to join the crowds, coolness washing over us relieving us of our dozy tiredness. It always amazes me how tiring sailing is. Whether it is just a combination of heat, dehydration and all the sitting around ( especially when the wind abandons us) Refreshed and a little more energetic we have lunch and swim for a while longer. It is always safest to stay onboard once at anchor at least until we are sure the anchor is properly set. There would be nothing worse than going ashore, only to find your expensive boat is no longer where you thought it should be by the time you return. Or worse, sitting on shore with a beer watching your lovely boat drift away!! After a few hours we take our trusty Zoe on shore. The water depth continued at 14 meters up until the shore, bit of a tricky one when trying to step out of the dingy, one step backwards and you are head height in water :) There were three or four restaurants along the beach. We chose the one which gave us a good internet signal whilst on 'Kejstral'. Unfortunately it was probably the worst, beer was only 10tl (£2.50), however it was a bit more rustic than we anticipated. A large family with very vocal children happened to be comfortably seated, spanning a large area. Wasps seemed to be everywhere which was rather unpleasant too. Our drinks were consumed quicker than normal and as the shabby menus had not been collected by anyone, we assumed eating was not an option. Hastily we retreated to an alternative eatery. Our second choice was much more our style, simple, good food and no hassle. Our meal of chicken stroganoff was perfect, beer 12tl so £3, but worth the extra. A couple of tables were filled with large holidaying Turkish families, all enjoying a big selection of meze and breads, food consumed in a very leisurely relaxed atmosphere. Raki bottles piling up on small side tables, laughter growing as the evening progressed and all making a lovely setting in this very pretty bay. (Just chose the right restaurant if you ever come out here!) We retired to 'Kejstral' with drinks and sat on our bean bags on the bow, stars twinkling around an almost full moon with distant laughter and chatter drifting from the gulets and restaurants, perfect. :) Woke early, slept well. Didn't rush to get ashore, just enjoying the comings and goings of the boats around us. Gulets leaving and arriving, cruisers setting off for another bay and yacht's stirring gently out of their sleep. It is brilliant to watch, questioning every move others make. A few tourist boats are trickling into this lovely bay carrying their excited gaggle of holiday makers. These boats take there places on the floating jetty in front of us. The jetty looks somewhat precarious built from blue barrels and wooden planks, some of which appear to have come adrift! Swimmers mingle in the busy waters with boats and inflatable rings, all a bit dangerous if truth be known all I can envisage is injury ( once a nurse!) We dress and set off in Zoe towards the shore, avoiding everything that is mobile and stationary. The entrance to Knidos archeological site could not be any closer, it is perfect as we have no other means of transportation. For 10 tl or £4 each, we step into this huge area of columns and walls, paving and ornately decorated stone. This site is massive and spreads over onto the island linked by a causeway. The buildings that are still standing are few and far between, mostly the small shopping and storage areas. These have been supported by the rocky hillside on which the whole town clings. Many of the large buildings and structures can only be recognised by the base stone flooring and steps. There are boards with information and images, giving a great understanding of the layout and town maps. Wouldn't it be fabulous for one of these ancient towns to be brought back to life? To have buildings restored and streets repaved, people working and stores open, fishing and cargo vessels coming into the port past the watch tower at the harbour entrance. To be transported back to that amazing era, giving that unique opportunity to visualise the lives of these people. Maybe we need to find a billionaire to start the project :) After 4 hours we are hot thirsty and tired, the sea looking more and more inviting with each step we take. We wander back to Zoe and head for drinks and swim time. What a fabulous feeling climbing into the sparkling cool water, the drop in body temperature is perfect. We spend the afternoon relaxing trying to avoid the soaring heat. Pretty hard when the boat is rotating constantly and our shade is never quite in the correct position! Tea on board is salad we then take coffee in a flask and cross to the shore to watch the beautiful sunset from the hillside. What a gorgeous evening, the bar is busy and at 15 tl or £4 for a beer, we decided to go and have our homemade wine on board. Into Turgutreis for some fresh food shopping then on board packed up ready to go.We left 09.45 am. Wind of 17 knots on the broad reach (back quarter) helping us achieve 6.5 - 7 knots all the way. 23 N.ms only took 3 hours 20 mins!!! What a fabulous sail in such a pretty area, leaving the Bodrum peninsula heading towards the Datca coastline while passing the Greek Island of Kos. Tankers trundle past in their shipping lane, laden with goods, fuel or just returning empty to where ever they came from. Ferries zip past attempting to keep to their schedule en route to the nearest Greek Islands, we dodge the wake they leave behind, turning into the monster wave to limit its impact on our little boat, not easy when in full sail. When you alter course when the sails are out, the sails complain by flapping angrily, this in turn slows the boat as wind is no longer filling them. Yachts appear from all directions taking advantage of the perfect sailing conditions, travelling to a variety of new exciting places. A big swell travelled with us most of the way, and couple of dolphins popped up to say hello before dipping back down beneath the waves. Knidos south east bay, is pretty sheltered from swell on the tip of the Datca coastline. 24 knot gusts of wind are due to continue overnight so it may be a little lively in there! We anchored in a sandy bottomed area opposite a pontoon where around six boats, yacht's and small cruisers were tied up. The bay is really pretty with evidence of ruins everywhere we look, walls have crumbled but can be easily recognised, small buildings possibly once the homes of inhabitants of the once Greek town. There is a smaller bay on the northern side of Knidos, directly opposite this one which gives the impression that the land on the west of this bay was once an island or perhaps only connected by a causeway. To see the ruins spread over such a large area means this must have been a pretty large town at one time. An amphitheatre stands proudly on the east of our current bay with an archeological site fenced off nearby. That must be explored in the morning!The afternoon was pretty hot so swimming and siesta time. Kevin tried a bit of fishing with no luck. In the evening we took Zoe our tender, across to the pontoon for a beer 15tl ( £4) each in the bar the only bar, hmmm not impressed !! A walk along the beach revealed a tantalising array of ruins and walls all linked to this archeological site, looking forward to seeing lots more tomorrow. Our Greek journey was brilliant and our need to travel further was great however, we are restricted this year to being out of Turkey for a limited period. Next year we are free to come and go as we wish, exciting !! For this reason we chose to travel from our home in Akbuk near Didim, down around the coast south towards Kaleucagiz. We had only been home for just long enough to wash all clothes and bedlinen and of course restock and clean the boat. It is quite a logistical challenge trying to organise for a four /five week journey. I rely on lists, then I need to find those lists! I do have a great 'notes' app on my personal tablet which makes life somewhat easier. Things you may not even imagine that must be taken from gas bottles to first aid necessities, then how many sets of towels and bedding will depend on how often we want to frequent the expensive laundry services ! As we will be within Turkey for this journey, food is pretty easy we know where to buy what we need, that is of course relient on finding supermarkets. Throughout this journey we also plan to meet up with friends from various places so hopefully have a pretty sociable time. Since we have repacked Kejstral with every concievable item, clothes food bedding and towels, today we only have the last bits to take on board. Having dropped those off we walked back to the harbour leaving our car at home. Once untied from shore we were underway by 10.15 am. The Genoa was out within minutes flying us to our destination as the wind was on our side today with very few gusts and a lovely constant push. The swell was assisting nicely in that same direction, perfect sailing weather. 6.3 knots average speed, normally a 6 hour passage, we achieved it in 4.5 hrs!! As usual, the swell was 1 meter initially then increased gently over journey as we reached the Yalikavak area, each wave grew to 2.5 meters becoming more uncomfortable. Only our Genoa was needed for the whole journey. By 2.45 we arrived in Turgutreis where the swell in this normally sheltered bay, decided to keep us company, rather annoying, as the anchor needed resetting where the swell had pulled us around. Once settled we snoozed then showered before getting Zoe our tender into the water, I am sure she was thrilled to be tossed around again! Kevin called the marina by VHF radio to ask if we could bring our tender inside for going ashore and they were happy to oblige, the marinas are normally very helpful. We had organized to meet some friends Susan and Jennifer at 6.45 that evening following our stroll along the seafront, fascinated by the waves and the tourist boats battling to arrive safely after their day out at sea. Through the powers of social media, I have been in contact with ten or so friends from my ( very hard to remember) school days. We have all changed so much yet seem to be so familiar, our lives have taken totally different paths but have miraculously ended up living in Turkey, them in Turgutreis while we are in Akbuk just 26 miles away, (as the crow flies) amazing! . We had a lovely evening and meal in one of the local restaurants then wandered onto a busy bar for drinks We said our goodbyes then headed back keeping that swell in mind, we didn't want to be too late. Back on boat by 10.15 The swell continued all night giving us a poor nights sleep, however, the music was quiet and little else could be heard which is always helpful. Woke to voices on shore 05.00! Woke early to boats going out therefore anchor chains being pulled in which can be a little noisy depending on the size of boat and their proximity to yours. Breakfast had, quick tidy up then we headed out on our scooter, first stop the military museum at Kokkina on the south west of Lakki bay. On the approach through a country road where trees shield us from the sun we are faced with tanks trucks and an aeroplane all dating back to the second world war. The museum is set within air raid bunkers and tunnels which is a bit eerie but fascinating, just being within these wall which housed some of the Leros inhabitants during a terrifying period of their lives. Uniforms hang proudly side by side as they may once have been worn by their either German, Italian or British owners. At this time the Italians were in power in Leros when the German and British were battling. Leros was heavily bombed and suffered huge loss of life. There were some fascinating items relating to the lives of all nationality's at that time giving great insight into a war torn Island and it's inhabitants. Now feeling a little depressed and humble we took off towards the north of the island where the military hang out. Signs are erected every where, no pictures or video must be taken clearly for security purposes, however all we saw were vehicles lined up looking a trifle dusty under a massive sun canopy. Soldiers milling around with mugs of tea in hand but looking particularly smart in their greens and buildings covered in camouflage which clearly wasn't working! Partheni harbour sits neatly alongside an airport at the most northern point of Leros.This harbour is mainly used for winter storage of boats, anchorage is possible but as the wind comes predominantly from the north it may not be an ideal spot. Boats line the hard standing wearing winter protective coats ( 35 degrees today) I am sure they protect from the sun too. Dusty covers lay paint sprayed in blues and reds under hulls which have been jet washed, scraped and repaired before the glossy anti foul paint has been perfectly applied. Some of these boats have been standing for so long little plants have begun creeping out of their woodwork. Green spirals trailing through portholes the glass long broken and swept away. On the tiny runway alongside stands the only aeroplane of the day, waiting for its lone passenger and skeleton crew to board, the runway is barely long enough but obviously has been in use for a very long time. Gourna bay was our next stop, on the west coast a pretty beachfront curves around the sparkling blue waters. Two cafe / restaurants sit in the middle of this large bay edge with a small pristine white church in south edge then Agios Isadore takes pride of place on the north end. Standing out on a rock literally in the water, this picturesque church looks stunning. The pathway has been built from the shoreline and leads you through the water outwards around fifty yards to this rock. A few whitewashed steps lead you up to the quaint wooden church door, leaded windows and that Greek blue paint finish the display beautifully. My camera groans ! Up to Agio Marina next where we stopped last evening for wander. We met a lovely slightly eccentric Greek lady who seemed to just need company. She told us tales and talked about life in this country a very nice lady. The castle in Leros sits high on a mountain on the north east of the island. It stands stoney faced looking down at the bays around its feet, we climb the mountain no, not on foot, but on our trusty transport the views alone are worth stopping for. Steps take you into the high sandstone walls for a look into the history within. Each their of stone ramparts and pathways were once trodden by soldiers and guards of this Island sworn to protect the land. This castle has unfortunately been abandoned and left to ruin by the powers that maintain historical buildings, it is quite sad to see walls bulging and damage to structures, but as we all know, money is needed for repair, restoration and preservation. Back to 'Kejstral' to collect the paperwork as tomorrow we leave Greece :( Our first official stamp is from customs they are situated in Agio Marina, next the port police who are nearby then back down into Lakki for the harbour master to complete our ' boat passport' We feel quite sad due to our Turkish residence visa, we can only be out of Turkey for a set period of time. Pandeli is a small town on the east side of Leros it is very well liked by the sailing community. Anchorage here is in a rocky seabed but a stern line is recommended to the rocks. We would prefer to anchor in the bay below which is also rocky more shallow and more protected from the prevailing winds. Pandeli is delightful as we drive down the high hillsides we wind into a little gem of Greek tradition, stone white buildings greet the visiting traffic. Pensions squeezed into tiny cottages with the sweetest balconies and flowers trailing over rooftops into tiny gardens. Tables and chairs snugly fit into these gardens for guests to take an evening glass of wine overlooking this picturesque town. Shops fill the quaint backstreets overflowing with pastel coloured prettiness, old gnarled tree branches painted perfectly white, display goods in a rustic beautiful manner. On the beach front bars and restaurants entice the hot and hungry passer by, menus to drool over, fish cabinets filled spectacularly and tables laid with pretty covers and gleaming cutlery, who could walk by and not feel hungry? At the far end of this town is a traditional fishing harbour, local fishermen clean their nets while inspecting for damage to their livelihood. Yellow orange and pink nets can be seen strewn over the ground around their worn feet. Laughing and talking of their days catch no doubt, they seem content and comfortable in their very simple seemingly stressfree life. When only a few hundred yards away, superyachts and cruisers fill this bay with elegant clothing and accessories sitting down to their splendid evening meal of lobster and an appropriate probably very expensive wine. Above the town stand four windmills, beautifully refurbished and painted, they provide a stunning focal point when viewed from below and an equally spectacular view from their position on a steep winding hillside. As we take the scooter higher onto this hillside the wind gathers speed and force, hair blowing everywhere when we arrive at the first windmill. This small tastefully decorated mill has been converted into a small bar and eating place. The position of its terraced garden overlooks the fabulous bay of Pandeli and surrounding little Islands. Boats line every conceivable curve of this rugged coast, gleaming chrome and white in the now dwindling sunlight. From modest yacht's to the sumptuous fast cruisers, each tied stern to against the rocky backdrop. The wind however is howling around our ears, but the view is amazing, more and more people take to this hilltop for a glimpse of this pretty town. We sink into turquoise cushions perched high on benches with our drink watching lights gradually flicker on as the night approaches and the town below comes alive with visitors. The windmills glow in amber light as the moon gently pulls itself over the mountain tops beyond. Giving in to the dusk and a cool wind, we relax from the stifling heat, what a relief to watch the sun finally disappear. We decide to head back into Agio Marina for our last gyros and drink, the atmosphere is busy and vibrant. Restaurants and bars are full with various types of clients, from the shorts and bikini clad youngsters to the evening dress of the more mature ladies and gents. All guests are welcomed as equals and given the identical menus to select from. Waiting staff bustle between chattering guests awaiting their indecisive order, without frustration they give vivid descriptions of selected meals allowing each customer a mouth watering choice. The food looks beautifully presented and guessing by the empty plates being removed, it tastes just as delicious as it appeared.
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Sailing Kejstral AdventuresRetired and following our dream of sailing around the world Archives
April 2019
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