Woke early to catch ferry to Santorini, it was leaving at 07.25 am. Ferry was a fast jet awsome machine, we travelled at 27 knots and arrived in this first class looking boat only an hour later. Excited to see this famous little volcanic sculptured Island. Boy were we in for a shock ! What a run down, tired looking little ferry port not at all what we envisaged. Buses stood right by the harbour wall ready to chauffeur the prebooked guests to their various places of choice. A sheer rock face was all that could be seen from the port to anywhere on the island therefore walking to our hotel was not an option! €40 for a taxi or bus, therefore we sourced a car, a bit battered looking and for the bargain price of €90 until tomorrow evening, not a good start to our budget! Thankfully the beaten car managed to transport us to the top of the rockface, bloody good job really. Once on top of the Island, wow what an absolutely stunning view, in the distance were the two outer Islands, Thirasia and Nea Kameni the actual volcano. In the forefront is the Caldera (a large crater formed during an immense eruption as it forces lava out and empties the lava chamber below) so basically creating a large moat around the volcano site. It looks fantastic, with three Cruise liners and few mega yacht's in the bay the scene is just breathtaking. This is the image we anticipated and we were overwhelmed. Incredible to think that this whole area was once one Island, during the eruption, this magnificent crater at least 500 meters in depth was formed. The rockface is 400 meters high and water depth is between 100 and 200 hundred meters deep! Anchorage would be a little tricky in that depth, even the cruise liners do not drop anchor, they float around with thrusters to optimise their position. There are mooring buoys around the rocky shoreline which were being used by everyone, super yacht's and gulets as well as smaller yacht's and motorboats. The road led us to the main town. Fira is the ancient capital of Santorini otherwise known as Thira, the road preceding this renowned town was pretty shabby and I am afraid yet again left us feeling cheated. Wrecks of cars and old disused buildings unattractively left to crumble into disrepair were not what we expected from the acclaimed Thira. As we neared the town centre a carpark relieved us of our wheels allowing us to wander and explore the streets. Just as well really as what we were being exposed to so far was a bit depressing. Following winding streets our hearts began to lift, perhaps our first impressions were somewhat premature. As the streets grew narrower and prettier with tiny shops, those whitewashed walls and charming decorations all appealing to our sense of satisfaction, our smiles grew with anticipation of the next corner and stairway. It was lovely, so we stopped for drinks €15 for a coffee and a coke! My purse was cringing. cThira is a very old town, the buildings are in need of some repairs, intermingled with these older properties were lovely tastefully restored restaurants and shops. With some work, some amazing buildings could so easily be restored and brought to life, what a challenge that would be, perhaps another year! The outskirts of Thira are much less impressive than the centre, maybe we had visions of a pristine island drawing in the rich and famous. Perhaps we just came in through the back door unlike those who arrive by plane or boat. There is an airport on the eastern coast, flat and unassuming lands surrounding this gateway to paradise certainty not giving any clues to the goldmines on top of the rockface. Our hotel was in Karterados, a small village between Thira and the airport. It was highly recommended by the travel agent in Ios. Nicholas Hotel stood out from the crowds of white and blue in this small town, her yellow and terracotta walls lit beautifully by sparkling lights. A well maintained swimming pool greeting each hot sticky guest with its blue tiled steps into sanctuary. Each room was stepped and set back a meter from its neighbouring accommodation to maximise privacy and provide a hacienda feel. Green painted shutters kept each room cool, tiles underfoot assisted this effect. The staff were perfect hosts and happy in their daily tasks, with breakfast included in this €105 per night hotel, yes rather pricey but worth it to see our goal, Santorini! Our friendly receptionist kindly gave us a map and ' her' view of the Island. What a refreshing change, it was not all glittering and fabulous, at least it was honest, I have to say, her thoughts reflected ours however, we hadn't seen the best parts. Thank goodness for her help. We drive to Oia one of our planned places ( receptionists verification included) our route took us to the north of the Island, a 20 minute drive. As the road meandered around rock faces we could clearly see the differing rock layers, cream ash layers speckled with reddish stones then alternating sections of black volcanic rock. Quite amazing scenery, in addition, buildings filtered sublimely into the twisting bending road. Gradually the town of Oia unfolded and what a difference from Thira. The roads became narrow allowing only one vehicle through which became a bit awkward with coaches one after another. Parking was great with a €3 charge for 5 hours, from here we entered the prettiest town I have ever seen. White paint may have been going cheap on the day it was decorated as everything shone and dazzled in the brilliant sunshine. Every wall, step church house and shop looked pristine, flowers adorning every gap and doorway. Twisting winding white steps leading down to several tiers in the rockface every building made you smile with delight, my poor camera. Shops woven into the rocks took on a cottage look, all different yet all charming, jewellery and clothing by those expensive designers, filling windows and elegant displays. Bars with white woven awnings overlook the caldera, cozy white cushions plumped to within an inch of their lives strewn over soft white sofa's drawing in our thirsty hot bodies. We walk for what seems like miles, not wanting to miss a thing, each bend in the paths and step to another level inciting us further into this fabulous town. We are weary therefore decide to go back for our siesta. This evening we will return, for the spectacular sunset as seen in those magazine's and books advertising this Island. We ate yummy gyros from a local cafe those pitta wraps with pork, salad and chips coated in that lovely garlic/ yoghurt sauce. €8 drinks included! Our evening drive to Oia was so much busier than earlier, coaches and more coaches rolled along the winding roads. We parked again as before however, we were crammed into tighter smaller spaces, perhaps to squeeze in as many of us as possible. The streets were packed with tourists every one holding a camera, all of us flowing into this small, but beautiful town. As we filter through narrow streets we catch glimpses of the terraces below, between stunning white holiday apartments and hotels, were tiny private, aqua green swimming pools. Other balconies housed wooden sunloungers and tables, displayed perfectly with plants and glass candle holders just awaiting their guests to enjoy. The bars and restaurants were buzzing, voices and laughter filling the evening. As the sun hovered lower, the population of Oia followed, finding their ultimate spot balancing on walls, peering round corners, and teetering on steps, each craning and straining to catch their best shot on film. We were no different, at the far end of Oia stand two refurbished windmills, these striking structures formed perfect silhouettes against the setting sun. No one moved, a pin drop could have been heard in the eerie silence as the sun gently nestled into the ocean leaving pink, orange and yellow skies behind on this wonderful evening sky.
Everyone applauded as this perfectly natural occurrence completed a perfect day in Santorini. Just to end a magical day a complete full moon filled the night sky, glowing and reflecting perfectly onto the caldera. The crowds leaving the streets were fuller and wandered with less purpose, some stopping to gaze in shop windows, others opting to dine or have drinks. We chose to sit in a quiet bar overlooking the bay, we watched one of the cruise liners sail away perhaps chasing the afterglow of sunlight. Our day was done, we headed to our 'proper' bed and shower.
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Winds due to pick up later this morning so our need to leave was great. Set off by 06.40, sail out by 06.55 wind from West, lovely rolling seas in our direction 7.4 knots !! A couple of dolphins accompany us for a few miles, weaving across the bow to show us their agility and skills, they are so graceful. At times they appear to touch the hull, perhaps in need of a back scratch! Surfing the crest of each wave, occasionally we catch it early or perhaps late and 'Kejstral' lurches inelegantly. The wind has arrived thought we might get through a day with less! Nope, not today. 27 N.ms and 4 hours 30 minutes journey time. When we pulled into the harbour wall to drop anchor, we reversed back perfectly then inadvertently swung sideways onto the harbour with that damned wind, not what was intended! Then tightening the anchor chain to pull us straight, ie stern to the wall however, the anchor would not hold, within minutes we were touching stern to wall!. Our decision then was to pull alongside for security as the wind was pushing us straight into the wall. Every boat that arrived did exactly the same, we did not feel quite so stupid :) Another boat with six British guys pulled in next to us they came alongside by accident too, we assisted where possible but unfortunately their manoeuvring left their lovely boat damaged. Nice guys invited us on board for beer for our troubles clearly we could not refuse :) theirs was a charter boat now with a lovely dent in its hull where it collided with the harbour wall. Just when we thought all was settled the Port police told us not to tie along side as it takes up too much room, go to the other harbour wall. So back to the ropes, anchor and controls. By this time the British lads had gone ashore, therefore we had to move to a different place across the small harbour in this wind to a wall next to the ferry port! We loosened ropes easing 'Kejstral' back into a stern to position with the wind forcing us into this wall. With gentle adjustments and a watchful eye we were able to push away from the damned wall with no damage :) Fenders altered in readiness for our new position and a slick procedure brought us nicely into place between a lovely big cruiser and the big black rubber buffers of what was to arrive later! Although safer as out of the wind, it will no doubt be a very noisy night as the ferry port was 100 yards to our left with bars and restaurants all lined up in front of us, great I'm sure we asked for quiet. Arrived around 12.00 lunchtime , once settled, we watched four massive jet ferries arrive within half an hour, a very speedy process. In Naxos our previous destination we thought the port police were efficient if not a little grumpy with their whistle blowing and gesturing to cars, bikes and boats. These guys on Ios were of a different breed! Whistling at everything mobile, frightening us and everyone else with their shrill commands and strict rules. I now understand why, we were moored next to a one way road, the port police were the only people capable of recognising the road signs! Every car, bike and quad received a whistle to correct their ignorance. What caused even more chaos was when a ferry arrived. It was full of 18- 28 year olds buzzing from that holiday spirit, giggling girls and loud lads bellowing to one another over the sound of jet ferry engine and the wind. The port police were regimental in their control, they had to be in order to cope with this daily onslaught of pandemonium. One of our dreams was to visit Santorini, it really was a must do item to be ticked from our long list of goals. We found the ticket office and booking desk there, we were relieved of more money than was anticipated. €110 for a hotel room with breakfast and a further €160 for the ferry return trip. Wow, more than we planned to spend, but it was only a stones throw away!! Sailing there would have been problematic as depths were 150 -200 meters all round the Island, where there were shallow spots, the anchorage was not recommended due to ferries, cruise liners and trip boats. As fairly novice sailors we did not need unnecessary stress. Therefore we paid for an early morning ferry to safely carry us to our little dream Island in the morning. We decided to walk into the main town of Chora, you are shocked, as were we, another Chora ! The signs indicated a stepped incline until the town was reached. It was a full fitness workout, step after step coiled it's way around this rocky hillside. It was very carefully painted with white edging in a decorative attempt to draw your mind from the hundreds of white edged steps to come. Around each curve small cottages nestled into the rocks, at least it was pretty! We were not alone, most of our stepmates were however descending rather than ascending, hmm perhaps there was an easier option to reach this town. As we flopped into the now horizontal road, we looked back at the astounding view of the port below. Lights twinkled in the navy blue nighttime sky, illuminating all before us. The moon dazzled white almost full, and shone brightly over the ocean it was breathtaking ( as were the steps!) The path led us towards the bright lights of Chora, gradually filling with sun scorched tourists eager to sample the Islands nightlife. Music hummed from doorways, jazz pop and the more sedate relaxing mellow tunes all attempting to entice and capture and create memories for the crowd gliding by. We felt old, most of these bars were designed for the 20 year old, itching to party and meet like-minded companions. Brash behaviour and voices raised, each competing for the attention of everyone around, this was not how we envisaged Chora. We didn't fit into this culture or lifestyle. We continued through Chora hoping for something to suit our era and lifestyle, alas no, we stopped in one corner garden bar, looked at each other and both said ' no' at the same time. This nightlife is for a much younger person, one who can be bothered with the effort of yelling above the grunge music and loud artwork. The town was amazing to see it held all of the qualities we love, tiny shops, lovely cafes, curved pathways and perfect paintwork, we were just visiting at the wrong time of day. To be fair to the crowds in Chora, drunken behaviour, smoking and swearing were not even the issue, it was purely the cultural and age differences between us and them. We headed back to the fitness workout of descent. Managed to find a more sedate, gentle bar just so we could have our refreshments prior to the steps, it was better priced too €6 for two beer, my kind of bar. We wandered back a little disappointed but decided that although it didn't suit us, the town during daylight hours would be so much better. Bed was calling, we must obey :) Woke late 08.30 never normally that late, even with vague music and voices from the bars nearby into the early hours. Bike collected by 9.45 brand new bike however it was missing its wing mirrors, had to wait few minutes for a replacement. Naxos is the largest Island within the cyclades. The main town again called Chora. Small villages line each main road from Chora, each very old and less attractive than the old town market from last evening. Fields of vines fill the gaps between villages. Generally the landscape is bland in comparison to some other Islands. Two quaint areas towards the centre of Naxos, kalamitsia and Filoti have lovely hidden backstreets of interest. Museums and churches can be found nestling between cottages and narrow streets. All painted with whites and blues. The Island is less interesting with regard to monasteries and attractive towns than some others however, the old town in Chora makes up for this. We head to Chora sea front for gyros. During the daytime ferries bring and take many tourists to and fro, keeping a steady stream of youngsters with brightly coloured suitcases and even brighter coloured clothes. The town thrives on these young people Island hopping, they are all within the same age range, 18 to 28 possibly school leavers or university graduates enjoying a burst of freedom from their studies. Unfortunately this also makes the town a little louder than others, in addition, these guys appear to be the bike and quad brigade that over run each road and street around Chora. The port police have their work cut out, chasing late arrivals and ushering the wanderers, blowing whistles at the oblivious and reprimanding the chancers. I could not do their job and to think they have this continuously for a whole season, no wonder they appear irritated and tired. We find some beaches in Plaka, slightly south of Chora, gorgeous sandy and filled with gently roasting bodies. Sunbeds line the waters edge each of the many restaurants and bars having delegated areas brightly highlighted in rainbow colours. The waves are lively spilling their frothy bubbles onto sparkling sand. Screaches and screams fill the air each time a power driven wave forces someone from their fluorescent inflatable into the aqua ocean. We join the crowd, outrunning and jumping each wave as it slams against the shore, laughing as our feet misjudge the timing and we splash rather clumsily into the sea. So refreshing yet exhaustive trying to maintain balance whilst enjoying the cool waves. We toast ourselves dry in that unforgiving sun, just enough to climb back into clothing appropriate for the heat. We do cover up, acutely aware of the damaging rays, we hadn't realised how destructive the sun can be. Plastic can rot, colours fade skin burns and people wither, over long periods of time the damage is irrepairable. Gallons of water are consumed by the day suncream applied repeatedly and hats adorned where possible. We followed a few more roads to nowhere in particular, before giving into the heat. Afternoons are for dozing in shade we head back to 'Kejstral' Collect our spare fuel cannister for the boat (while we have the bike it is so much easier) top up 20 litres at the nearest station for €25.20. Siesta time. As we had seen as much as we wanted, we returned the scooter. Showered using the free water meaning I can leave the shower running between hair wash, condition and soapy sponging, luxury ! Kevin had some fiddling to do as outrshore power plug was highlighting reverse polarity, no idea why as all had been working fine until now. Eventually abandoning it and unplugging electric as no explanation in books or internet were aiding the issue.!! As an occasional treat we decided to eat out, during our wander through the old town we were drawn to a traditional Greek restaurant called Flamenco's with live music. Two authentic mandolin playing chaps sat under a bamboo and flower covered hut surrounded by diners in their finery. In a lovely white walled garden pretty lights glowed to guide us into position around our dedicated tables. Green and white linen laid over rickety white tables with flowers abundantly decorating every wall, ledge and surface. A real garden feel to this very busy well managed restaurant. €38 for a three course meal with Karafe of wine and we enjoyed every minute of this amazing place. Businesses in this town seem to be doing pretty well as far as we can see :) Back for bed as nearly midnight. Early start 06.30 calm sea initially then enough wind to help sail. As the route meant sailing into the wind, half the journey was on the engine. Huge swells in this area are common, passing yacht's look so calm, we probably look like a bouncy castle competition entrant. A few nice cruisers pass us looking very serene, hardly even aware of the motion of this great sea. At times the wind died completely leaving us bouncing on the swell therefore the engine was on/ off on quite a few occasions.. Arrived at 15.30 pm following our 37.8 nautical mile trip. Average speed of 4.8 knots. The 'marina' was very narrow, always a bit scary, so many boats in there to damage, and watch us make a hash of our entrance! The spaces were few and far between a guy standing on the harbour indicated where we should go. That was not much help as the selected spot had very little to tie up to. We deliberated over an appropriate space while getting ' Zoe' our tender into position on our bow, when accidentally 'Kejstral' drifted towards the anchor chain of a lovely yacht, managed to get the chain trapped between our keel and rudder. With a little force and strength from Kevin, ( wind really not helpful) We managed to unhook ourselves. It's not stressful at all this sailing stuff!! Within a couple of minutes we were safely in a good spot. Next to two very posh yacht's both over 50 feet long, we were snuggled between with no movement, perfect! Siesta needed on board, while listening to the chaos ensuing around us. A yacht had entered the harbour, unaware of the narrow space between the harbour wall and other boats. The captain had inadvertently crashed into a fabulous wooden boat, ripping the bimeny, top sun shade apart! Raised voices in strange languages drew more attention to their plight. Honestly, it really is entertainment at it's best :) we showered, washed 'Kejstral' off as she was rather salty. It is hard to imagine just how much salt covers the boat in one transit. If you run a finger across the bow a little pile of white granules fall off, the down side is that this same quantity of salt is also within the winches, ropes and mechanical equipment and causes a huge amount of damage to working parts. Therefore 'Kejstral' must have regular showers! Which again causes issues as it takes quite a substantial amount of water to wash boats, then of course we shower regularly, wash dishes and clothing. So all in all, our 250 litre water tank does not last long. Fortunately water is available in most harbours, some cost others are free. This port charged us €28 for two nights including water and electricity, bargain!! 'Kejstral had a good old bubble bath, well she deserves a treat :) Our plan was to hire a scooter tomorrow and see the island € 20 per day, collect 09.00 hr in the morning. The main town Chora, yes I know, they are all called the same, ( it does mean town centre) is quite commercial. Lots of bars and eateries all very well presented however, not the quaint pretty town we love. I suppose we were a bit disappointed initially. We found a small more friendly traditional type to gaze at the less sedate environment around us. Cars scooters and quad bikes obscure our view frequently. Hmmm not sure this is our idea of fun. Finishing our drinks we decide to walk behind the busy commercial road and find the old market place. It is fantastic, smiles gradually creep across our sunburned faces. Narrow streets with arched ceilings, curved walls opening out into pretty little squares with tiny cafes and gift shops. My senses are heightened colours, sounds of chatter, gentle music with gorgeous aromas of coffee and sweet pastries. ,Little shops built into the huge rockface above, paved streets in slate with painted white pointing flow into tiny restaurants tucked away beneath arches, and pretty lights illuminate each doorway. We glimpse courtyards filled with bright tables and chairs awaiting it's customers with twinkling candles and pretty decorations. All beautifully hidden gems behind the uninspiring seafront and bars and businesses, fabulous. We head to bed with our minds full of sights, sounds and smells in anticipation of the day ahead :) We woke at 06.00 am, having slept really well. Some of our lovely neighbours have quietly sailed on to their next destination already. Our journey today will take us to the Island called Amorgos, it has a few good bays to pull into. We set off by 06.40 into very little wind, our route is west from Levitha Ormos. The wind direction also appears to be westerly hmmm how much sailing today? Because the wind is lighter than previous day's we may have a more comfortable trip. We manage to sail some of the eight hours, however the wind gradually dropped over the day to 1.5 knots, not very helpful really 37.7 N.ms. to go and no wind ! We travel through a shipping lane which we have done before, when you see these humongous sea monsters bearing down on your little boat, we get a little nervous. The first vessel smoothly bypasses us, across the bow giving us no cause for concern. His cargo unfathomable as we see nothing obvious, I would love to know where he has been, where he is headed and what is he carrying, it is intriguing. The world is such a big place and yet we have the ability to travel so easily around. If only we could just stop and ask for a moment, clearly that will not happen! The second tanker seemed a little less friendly, heading in our direction, looking completely overloaded with multi coloured containers. His intentions were not so obvious, will he come this side or the other of the Island in front of us? Will he fit between the island and us ( we have sails out which could be somewhat chaotic if we need to alter our course too much) The decision was made to just stop and wait, as he was travelling so fast, he probably wouldn't have known we were there. He most certainly wouldn't have moved around us either! He appeared to behave like a road raged yob in comparison to his 'Sunday driver' buddy in the previous ship. A few large ferries linking the Islands gracefully, took their place alongside us in this big ocean. Elegantly manoeuvring among the archpeligo of Greek Islands, stopping only on the larger of the groups. We reach the north of Amorgos Island where we turn down to its west coast, there can be found two large bays with healthy thriving towns. The most northerly bay called Nisos Amorgos, looks amazing we pull into crystal clear turquoise sandy waters in which the whole town population appears to be swimming. Perfect, Oh except for the extremely loud pair of musicians playing on a small stage. The music is deafening we cannot even make out what type of disturbing ear rattling, music it is meant to be. We think there may be some sort of festival as there are twenty or more little tents erected around the beach, hence the overcrowded waters. We attempt to anchor but with the weed and sandy bottom, it just will not hold. Just as well really as we both looked somewhat horrified at each other, how can you enjoy such a fabulous place with music so loud and awful. Must be getting old!!! Travelling further down south on west coast we find katapola, a quiet ( hopefully) harbour with that lovely Greek feel. The best place to be was on the harbour wall, nicely protected from wind, not that there is any today! Electric and water are available and amazingly free :) We reverse onto the wall and with that good old boatee spirit, people come to assist with ropes ( probably to ensure our boat is tied properly therefore won't hit anyone elses!) The town is small and very sweet, from our vantage point we watch life pass us by. Local bar and restaurant owners preparing for an evening of hungry thirsty guests. Table clothes fluttering as they are shaken open to lay upon those white painted tables. Cutlery glistening with each movement as it is placed in that perfect position, napkins folded in skilled hands then slotted carefully beside glowing candles. Within minutes the whole seafront has evolved from day to night, this is a nightly routine, and we have become accustomed to this timely transformation. We take a stroll along the small promenade and catch the sunset, which never ceases to thrill us, before we enjoy a glass of wine in a bar opposite 'Kejstral'. This allows us some cheeky free internet, so that I can update our blog and check in with family and friends, all from the comforts of our boat.
Bedtime as early start at 06.30 ( hope Kevin set an alarm !!) Journey today is towards a quiet bay called Levitha Ormos, 28 nautical miles away. time 5.5 hours. Our plan was to leave around 10.00 am. however that was not going to happen. A huge beautiful Turkish Gulet had pulled into the space next to us overnight, which would normally be no problem. Unfortunately he was sitting on top of our anchor (he was three times longer than us!) This slightly restricting our exit, we asked the captain roughly what time he expected to leave and were told at 10.00am. By 11.30 we were just setting off. Today the wind was good to us, around 17 knots, with reefed sails we glided through a gently swelling sea at around 6.5 knots. The sea was deserted, should be a quiet anchorage. On rounding the corner into the bay, we were catching sight of one, then two then six........ 10 other yacht's in the bay! Not at all how we envisaged our quiet evening. The wind was still pretty gusty in the bay however there were mooring buoys dotted around. Excellent this means a hopefully, safer mooring. With usually very heavy concrete bases, these buoys are better placed to prevent your boat drifting, the issue arises when trying to get hold of one! I took the helm while Kevin with a hook. He disappeared towards the bow ready for the challenge and it was, we turned towards said buoy, wind on our port side ( first mistake!) Should be in front of you if possible. As I bring 'Kejstral' to a gentle halt near the buoy, wind takes us away from it. Kevin managed to grab it however, we are drifting away too quickly. Eventually the boat hook he was grasping so tightly snapped in two. One end still attached to the buoy! Another boat hook required, fortunately we had just replaced our old slightly bent one yet had not trashed it. So bent hook was used for the second more successful attempt. The wind does cause problems whenever you try to 'park'. This time was no exception, I should however have made sure we were directly into the wind path. A few adjustments saw us tied firmly, then time for a cuppa. Our neighbours were in a variety of old and new vessels, flags from France, New Zealand Germany and Italy could be seen fluttering their patriotic colours high above each boat. There were three British flags too, it is hard to imagine all of these people making their separate plans to travel their separate route of choice to then come together in such a remote bay. As we arrived at teatime Kevin was questioning his menu choices, I had decided on spaghetti bolognese so on with the gas, out with the mince and veg. Kevin messed around, cleaning and tidying when a motor boat appears alongside. The guy on board was the local inhabitant, the only family on the island it turns out. He helped ensure the ropes where secure and informed us of the €7 per night charge. Did we want to pay him now or go to his taverna this evening! He has a taverna, where?? We can see nothing more than a small concrete jetty two blue containers and a little fishing boat! So we ate up, showered and changed, during this time taverna owner was zipping round each yacht checking ropes and passing on his taverna invite. Soon there were tenders everywhere bobbing on the still swelling waves, each tender heading for a jetty space. As we approached to squeeze into the reducing space, a New Zealand couple took our ropes and we chattered excitedly about the mysterious taverna. It wasn't an obvious path, stony and winding through bracken and shrubs. Soon we were facing a bright white and stone cottage with an outside patio area covered loosely with bamboo to reduce that offending sunshine, still hammering us at 7.30 in the evening. As we seated ourselves, next to Lee and Larry from N.Z. other boatees took their wicker seated chairs around old wooden tables. Lanterns swayed above our heads in the now settling breeze. It was almost surreal, from our expectation of uninhabited island with a lonely nights anchorage, the evening had become a laughter filled, story exchanging gathering of lovely people. Some ate the local offerings of lamb with rice and potatoes, or meatballs. All of this and drinks were served enthusiastically by our taverna man and his children aged around 10 or 12 years old. We chattered away to L & L all evening and found out Lee had retired early from accountancy and Larry had handed over his electrical business, to fly to Greece and buy a boat then hopefully sail it back to N.Z. The evening came to a close with exchanges of email addresses and Facebook details before we stumbled our way back towards what we assumed was the concrete jetty. Fortunately we were all together, all of the 10 boat occupants, together we giggled our way using torchlights and handheld gadgets to illuminate our path, still managing to lose our way! On reaching our various tenders we took leave of our new found friends onwards towards our individual boats. Then settled to sleep ready for the day ahead. Collected scooter at 08.30 We set off straight to the town of Chora having collected fuel, full tank €7. In 1981 Patmos was officially recognised by the Greek parliament as the holy island. Chora, pronounced 'Hora' is the main town of the Island reached only by a steep climbing winding road. As the road rises higher the views become most spectacular. Every bay can be seen surrounded by turquoise waters and golden sands, boats gently sway, glittering chrome work catching the sun with every movement. The Island is very green, fertile and healthy even in these temperatures. As we climb higher towards the massive grey stone walls surrounding this impressive town, each twist in the road provides us with another camera snapping view. Our bike is abandoned outside the great walls, left to fend for itself while we are enveloped in the atmosphere and sights before us. Whitewashed stone walls and blue painted doors and windows, greet us from beyond the stark grey outer walls. This town has a protective cloak, hidden beneath are traditional stone built cottages and shops painted in the colours of Greece. Narrow cobbled streets, little archways and tunnels with ceilings beautifully made from wooden lath fill us with awe. Stone doorsteps enhanced by orange pink and yellow flowers adorning the doorways. A few cats stretch lazily in doorways and window ledges trying to stay within shade, each looking rather well fed by our estimations! Within Chora's walls can be found the Monastery of St John the theologian, it is quite simply stunning. To take a privileged tour within this awsome building will set us back € 4 each. Clearly as a religious building we must adhere to a suitable dress code. So a long navy skirt is wrapped around my bare legs, I feel respectable :) The white painted walls with stone finishing each corner and edge look beautiful, high above our heads the copper bells glint in the sunshine between pristine white pillars of stone, they look stunning. Priests and monks mingle among the tourists smiling and nodding their greetings no doubt tutting quietly at each bare shoulder or leg passing by. Within the Churchs we have seen in Greece, mahogany wooden alters and beautifully carved benches. Surrounding these are golden candle holders and superb embroidered wall hangings highlighting various Saints and other religious people. Ceilings are painted with the most stunning murals in striking golds, with crimson and blue details. There are mahogany dressers filled with images and trinkets depicting their many holy idols. Near the huge wooden doors are small boxes filled with yellow or white waxy candles, visitors may light and place one of these in memory of a loved one, it is lovely. Outside we are scalded by the harsh sunlight, what a contrast to the cool walls and floors of the Monastery. Three windmills sit high on the outside of Chora town walls, old stone constructions dating back to 1558. There are many flour mills in Greece, most of which have been abandoned and left as ruins, these however have not. Looking upwards towards the beautifully carved wheel, you cannot help but wonder about the amazing work and effort gone towards this refurbishent. The wooden structure holding each of the twelve sails is in itself outstanding. To actually watch it glide through the air with a gentle creaking, each sail as it passes the sun glows brilliant white. Every joint in the framework is finished with chrome, adding a touch of opulence to the design. The round stone building is pointed beautifully in sand coloured mortar, locally quarried stone adding grey and sandy tones to the structure. In the dazzling sunlight against the perfect blue sky these windmills look fabulous. We sneak a look inside, six or seven flour filled sacks stand tidily to one side, empy sacks lay folded on wooden shelves. This mill actually produces flour, as we step inside little puff's of white flour fill the air with a light scent of wheat. A carved wooden staircase curves it's way up onto an oak boarded ceiling, the carving and finishes are perfect, each step attached to the curved walls seamlessly. Upstairs someone is working, we climb tentatively unsure of our intrusion. A Greek lady welcomes us in, ' please come up, I am just clearing the flour away', excellent English! We apologise for our disturbance, she smiles a lot and seems more than happy to explain a little about the mill stones. The refurbishent was carried out in 2010 and only locally sourced materials have been incorporated. Flour is being produced around six sacks per day, for the Island bakeries. How fabulous is that, everything used to restore the mills, produce the ingredients and bake each loaf of bread, is all done from this Island. Donations are used to contribute towards the upkeep, we happy give, very grateful for the opportunity to see this amazing creation. Another dozen pictures are taken, well, I might have missed something!! We head down from the windmills by bike, looking back over my shoulder to catch yet another glimpse of both the windmills and the walls of Chora. According to Greek legend Patmos was sunk, Zeus apparently was convinced by his buddies Apollo and Artemis to resurface the Island, don't you just love these legends :) On the lower tiers of this steep hillside is a cave where John, a disciple of Christ, envisioned the 'apocalypse' a vision of God in a rock formation . We ought to check it out, not wanting to miss a thing. The entrance to this cave has also been refurbished, all newly painted in that sparkling white with sand stone edging, the pine tree covered scene is very pretty. €2 each allows us to wander freely into this tranquil sanctuary. A few tourists mill around gazing at the religious pictures and ornaments. Carved stone items of significance are displayed on stepped sandstone floors. Gothic style archways, lead from one room into the next. Another beautifully finished renovation. The actual cave is beyond the refurbished walls, I cover up in respect, before entering this sacred site. The cave decorated in golds and crimson, candles fill every little ledge, a tourist guide is mid flow as we approach. Fortunately we catch the most significant part, apparently, John saw a vision of God in a small fissure on the rockface. This small section of the wall has been festooned with gold and precious artefacts, highlighting it's existence. I would probably have missed it's significance if not for the very helpful tourist guide 😁 Our religious sightings have come to an end, we need a little relaxation. Back on the winding hillside the road heads back towards the harbour, we take a right turn to Petra. This pretty beach is surrounded by tiny 'Islands' they form a protective arm from any harsh winds and lively seas. For this reason it is filled with an assortment of boats, either on anchor or using mooring buoys. We park by the beach having weaved our way through this little holiday resort. There are people dotted along the shingles absorbing those potent rays, they glisten with oil and water beads while toasting gently in their slumber. The sea is calling our sticky hot bodies, our skin red and tight from the fiery heat. We succumb to the cool inviting waters, it feels really cold, invigorating, a reflection of the opposing temperatures. Floating in this salty ocean, cools us perfectly giving us the enthusiasm and energy to push on. Refreshed, we stop at a small beach restaurant where the wooden white chairs sink gently into soft sand as we sit heavily down, the waiter rushes over, tablecloth in hand smiling hello. Greek salad with fresh bread, just enough to take us through the road trip. The beach is a few steps away with light shingle to tickle our toes en route to that beautiful aqua green sea. The restaurant building is across a road with quite a steady stream of traffic, therefore each plate of food and glass of beer must dodge an array of vehicle in order to land on our table. It is entertainment in itself, awaiting the next waiter and tray assault course! The heat is soaring, but we long to see more of this lovely Island. As we head north, the scenery changes gradually from bustling towns to sedate countryside, every turn in the road seems to bring us to another beautiful church. Greece love their churches, there are hundreds, each painted with those pristine whites and stunning blues. I snap away loving them all, 'I am sure you caught that church a minute ago!' groans my driver as I stop him every 2 minutes for yet another picture. Goats can be seen grazing oblivious to the beautiful views of shores and colourful beaches. Small villages appear out of nowhere, always with an amazing church. Some houses look as if they have been around for forever, old stonework and tired paintwork. Alongside these may be glowing white painted homes with their bright coloured doors and window frames, with occasionally a cat lazing in the shaded spots. The views from the highest point are astounding farms, fields filled with local produce, beaches touching each curve of the hillsides. I think this must be (so far) my favourite Island for the scenery. We absorb these wonderful sights for as long as we can tolerate the scorching heat before we head back to our little home ' 'Kejstral' We eat on board with the plan to head back up to Chora for an evening drink. The sun eases it's rocketing temperatures giving us a chance to enjoy a bit more of the Island. Chora has come to life, there are lights switching on, shop owners hanging their pretty linens on ladders beside doorways. Doors opening when they were earlier tightly shut against the heat. Cats appear out of alley ways stretching and yawning awake. The town is opening like a different book from earlier in the day. This morning it was sleepy a little lifeless yet so beautiful, this evening is sparkling, bustling and vibrant. We chose a taverna in the town square, surrounding us are quaint pastel coloured tables and chairs, twinkling lights and laughter. Everyone seems so comfortable in their surroundings, the wine is lovely and relaxes us into this atmosphere of calm. Behind us is sitting a monk with a string of wooden beads wrapped loosely between his hands. He has been chatting and laughing with the waiters and barstaff since we arrived, he greets us with ' kalespera' and calls 'salute' as we raise our glasses to another amazing day. We feel very welcome in this ' jekyll and hyde' town. As sunset approaches we try to find an ideal spot to capture its beauty, the Monastery entrance seems the highest point. While waiting with our cameras the Priests and monks arrive for perhaps a sunset prayer, each one climbing the many worn, stone steps upwards to their place of worship. We are greeted by each one with a wave and smile and a simple gesture towards the sunset, no matter who we are, we all appreciate this daily ritual and it's effect upon our surroundings. It is bedtime, we head back for what turned out to be a pretty sleepless night! We woke at 7.30 am, wind a little less so far. During the night it crept back to disturb our slumber once again. We had already stowed our possessions therefore we just had to take the engine from 'Zoe' our tender and secure it on 'Kejstral'. Hatches closed and anchor lifted, away we go by 09.00hrs. Still breezy hopefully just enough for our sails to enjoy, we unfurl the Genoa and allow it to fill then gently unroll the main. We are sailing and if feels great, 12 knots of wind push us from behind at around 5 knots, perfect conditions true 'fair winds and following seas'. On a few occasions the wind drops to 6 knots, flapping sails lead up to quickly tighten where possible and take in when the wind has just stopped. Gradually over the journey the wind steadies giving us a good 17 knots, however the swell increased as we head further into open water. Our trip should take us 5 and a half hours. 31 N.ms A few yacht's travel past us going north, we see them battling the wind, repositioning sails and trying to maintain a vision of calm, not easy for anyone when the swell is 2-3 meters!! We pass a few familiar Islands as we near Patmos, Arki and Lipsi are two Greek Islands we have previously visited, both are really lovely. Arki is the smaller, quieter Island with easy anchorage. Lipsi the larger has a few bars restaurants and a small fishing harbour. Both are very welcoming to the sailing / travelling community. Each of the Island we have explored have had ferries linking, therefore visitors are continuous. Because of the ferries, each of these remote little land masses have a thriving tourist trade. We have found that most sailing vessels follow the same pattern of islands, therefore we are likely to meet up each evening, just in a different place! As we approach Patmos, as with any new place, we are nervously excited. A little fearful of the mooring or anchorage yet exhilarated to be in our new holiday destination, I do believe we have a healthy fear of each new situation. There would be nothing worse than an over confident attitude, we could (and frequently do) look a little silly when we make our regular mistakes. Patmos is a bit quieter than we expected, which is great for us ( less people to notice us messing up the mooring) As we near the harbour wall, the harbour staff come to meet and assist with ropes, they also inform us where is best for our boat. With a very sharp whistle, we get the idea he wants us to pull in next to a rather sophisticated looking sport fishing vessel. I have never seen so many fishing rod holders in 40 feet of fibreglass, wonder if he actually catches anything, we never seem to! Anchor down and into reverse we go, unfortunately yet again we misjudge the anchor chain length, suddenly we come to an abrupt halt, Kevin yelling ( over the wind and 36 feet of boat) let out more chain! I yell back ( perhaps a little louder) we have no more bloody chain! Yet again we find ourselves pulling in the anchor to start the process all over again. Second time round we have perfection at least we are now moored, secure with a few rope adjustments to hold us firmly in place. Patmos is also a popular day stop for the few cruise ships in the area, which of course is brilliant for the town. Within an hour of us arriving the first big liner pulls into the narrow inlet, it is enormous. We discuss, as probably every other onlooker is, whether this captain has ever moored here before and will he make it in! The ship actually does a three point turn in an area so small, we all want to cheer and clap at his skill. Our discussion changes to ' well, he does have the benefit of bow thrusters and has probably been here hundreds of times ' poor captain, we do love to judge! On the dock we see a small party of school aged children wearing what we assume is traditional dress, they sing and perform a sweet greeting dance to the incoming visitors from the Turkish port of Kusadasi. Lovely gesture, just a pity we didn't have our decent camera available at the time. We only caught a glimpse of them performing The reason for our ' less capable camera situation' is that we are on our way to check out the scooter hire for tomorrow. We find a reasonable bike for € 18 euro per day which is pretty good as the bike is rather new. It will hopefully be returning to him just as clean and shiny! For the evening we wander through the pretty streets gazing longingly at the fabulous food being served to table loads of ravenous chattering guests. Laughter, glasses clinking, cries of ' salute' from around the tables give a sense of contentment and pleasure, if only vicariously in our case. What a vibrant town. In the evenings more shops open up to the sun kissed tourists who are by this time, eager to explore. Believe me, in 36 degrees the last things on your mind are walking too far and shopping. When sunset arrives the town becomes alive, shop owners smile and greet the excitable customers with 'kalespera'. Beautiful materials catch your eye, sparkling costume jewellery draped around the gowned maniquins, pretty sunhats and bright beachwear with elegant footwear laid out ready to tempt you. These hypnotic treasures encourage sublimely, the money from our tight pursestrings. Yet we take great pleasure from just watching the excitement of the purchaser and the gratitude of the vendor, each as happy with their end of the exchange. Should we choose to purchase every beautiful item that takes our heart, we could not travel and enjoy all of these experiences and for that we are truly grateful.
Back on board we settle into a dream filled sleep, with visions of our day ahead on the scooter ! Woke early windy yet again, getting a little bit much now!
Decided to clean the boat do some washing and generally relax. Yes I know that sounds terrible, what else do we do all day! For lunch a lovely Greek salad overlooking the harbour. Back on board for siesta. Evening meal of egg salad then out for a walk and drink with a chance to organise our route to Patmos with regard to the wind Quiet day really. Collected car 9am, happy to see some sights and dodge the wind for the day 😁 We headed out to the south side of Samos passing the airport on our left. We are still seeing helicopters carrying water over the hillside to the fire damaged site. Saw a sign for a monastery but it had been left to ruins and vacated a very long time ago, what a disappointment. Continuing around the south coast we stumbled across a honey shop with bee hives overlooking a stunning bay. The hives were full and worker bees were busily buzzing back and forth with their hoard. A small nest could be seen on the back wall of the shop, once inside the wooden shop, a glass fronted hive could be seen, awesome, all those bees creating a little piece of sticky gooy yummy honey 😁 having stared like a proper tourist would, I wanted my own little cute, string tied pot of deliciousness. Kevin rolled his eyes, 'you will sink the damned boat!' Naa, I will have eaten it long before that point 😁 Amazing little find on this stunning landscape with the views out over the south coast. Following the road to Kampos , we came to a small fishing town called Marathokanpou, this little port has been updated in the last 18 months. Sailing vessels can take a mooring on their newly created harbour where each berth has facilities for water and electricity. We have been here before all of the work was completed, and what a great job they have done. We called into the local well stocked mini market for an ice cream and water. Thought we should ask around about the new facilities and met a very nice British couple who live in France but leave their yacht in Leros for the winter. With free water and no harbour fees, they were rather impressed too! We do meet some very interesting people on ou r travels, all willing to share their experiences and stories. Onwards to port Karlovassi, this is the business end of Samos, very industrial with car ferries bringing goods daily to the Island from further afield. Which had me thinking, in very bad westher, how do some of the smaller Islands cope, their reliance on deliveries is quite scary. Some islands are without their own water supply! Most survive on produce grown in the farmlands, tomatoes in abundance, peppers aubergines and potatoes grow in hillsides overlooked by the wandering goat population. These animals are unbelievable, we have seen them perched precariously on the side of sheer cliff faces, quite happily munching on the greenery. If you reach the top of a particularly steep slope in the car/ moped, you can almost guarantee a goat will be balancing on the ledge above, chewing whatever is on the hilltop menu 😁 Onwards following the stunning coastline and stopping regularly to take pictures of the surfers perfect waves, the sound of the sea arriving on shore from their travels far in the distance cannot possibly be captured perfectly on camera, it is wonderful. The aqua green waves with white foamy tendrils wash over the pebbles, changing their pattern with each sweep. The sun is hot, yet the wind reduces our ability to notice just how hot and crispy we are becoming. So we move on reluctantly leaving surfy haven behind. Kokkari is our next and favourite place on this Island. We actually found it by chance on our first trip on our motor boat two years ago. I will return to this story a little later. Kokkari is also on the north of the Island which means strong northerly winds are very common, these winds provide Kokkari with a surf lovers sanctuary, the waves are awesome, each one rolling in and crashing beautifully onto the pebbly beach. The colours are perfect, pale blue crests rise high above the deep blue ocean, sweeping and rolling over creating that frothy white descending splash. My camera wants to capture each waves as the momentum gives rise to yet a greater more spectacular shot. ibcurb my my desire to fill my memory card with bubbles and foam as Kevin is hungry! Lunch we decide will be at the 'long beach hotel'. This establishment drew our attention a couple of years before. We had booked into a small pretty pansion for a few nights which was delightful. Elena our hostess must have been 90 years old, but what a friendly smiley lady. Our room was simple but beautiful with white linen and carved wooden furniture, white lace curtains billowing in the gentle breeze of the window trying hard to dapple the ferocious sunlight. We had a perfect two days there. The hotel a few hundred yards away 'long beach hotel' was our dining facility. When mealtimes approached we wandered past the pretty gift and souvenir shops to taste some culinary delights, in this fabulous location. It faces the sea and those fabulous waves, once seated, we found it very hard to leave the setting. Just to add to its privileged position this hotel had a very special, if not fussy guest. He would lay brazen and outstreached on the pebbles regardless of his fatty rolls of belly. He had an audience, cameras snapped him as he rolled over without a care in the world. His security, a man and women were on constant alert for interference or intrusion, he was oblivious to all lolling around basking in the heat. The seal Argiro, is a well known guest at this hotel, he arrives every summer for short periods, almost like a tourist. He has been know to clamber onto sunbeds optimising his chance of a suntan. Maritime conservation teams are with him constantly every change of position is documented. When he takes off for a swim, he has company his entourage stick like glue. Following his every movement. In the evenings he does a 'swim by' of the bars and restaurants, probably enjoying the attention and camera flashes! We have lunch, a perfect Greek salad with crusty bread to soak up the delicious oil and vinegar mixture. Crunchy pepper and cucumber red onion and tomatoes with a taste like none we have had before. Olives decorate the dish, we leave those where they are. We are not great olive eaters despite our Turkish / Greek travels! Perfect meal in a perfect location. From here we head back to Pythagorea to check 'Kejstral' as still coping with 23 knot winds, she is fine, bobbing around but secure. Back in our car to the town of Vathy for a walk, and drink. We have been to Vathy twice now, on each visit we left unimpressed and for very different reasons. Our first visit three years ago was aboard our motor boat, we traveled from Pythagorea north around the Island. The wind was rather fierce and the sea became increasingly rough. As we rounded the headland into Vathy we entered the large open harbour area. The swell must have been 3 meters and quite daunting for us. We moored against the harbour wall, yet the swell continued to batter us around. In addition to the conditions, the town was very disappointing. Our view was of a building site 😢 The town was having a makeover, the whole seafront had been dug out and was being replaced, what a mess. We did go ashore for a look around and were rather shocked at how buildings were left abandoned probably but the financial crisis in Greece. How sad to see so many businesses just come to an abrupt halt. So much so that dust has settled thickly onto goods lying in each tired old window. It was very eerie and so heartbreaking. Some little businesses were struggling to stay afloat with some very old sun damaged stock, other more affluent stores continued on around their sorry surroundings. We had had enough, therefore collected our boat and left to a small harbour with more protection and with a more pleasant view! We left Vathy on that occasion, feeling cheated as we had been told what a lovely town it was. That is when were first found Kokkari a totally unexpected piece of gold. So today we return with hope of an improvement to Vathy, were were not disappointed it looks so much better, the promenade which had been totally demolished now shone with marble and polished stone. The shops and old buildings look amazing, painted in lovely yellow and orange hues topped with rustic terracotta roofs. Freshly replaced oak wood windows with delightful shutters, all dressed in fine cotton whispy curtains, draw us closer for glimpse into their lives. We are so happy that we returned to this now vibrant colourful town. We stop for coffee in one of these refurbished cafes, sitting watching the Greek lifestyle drift by. The harbour to our right side is where the harbour master, customs and port police reside. Ferries come and go regularly transporting their many guests to the many Island destinations. This area looks equally different from our last visit. Only a year ago, we witnessed to arrival of many illegal immigrants to this port. Having been transported from Syria by whatever means, these very unfortunate families, many with small children and very old relatives were now awaiting the ferry to a better life. Very sad to see. Back to Kokkari for the evening so, a quick change of clothes in the car, then a fabulous evening meal by the waterfront, a massive mixed grill and wine to celebrate Kevin's birthday. We drove back to Pythagorea to return the hire car and meet some friends. Edward and Anna have been in contact through social media, keeping each other updated on weather changes, moorings and our different plans for sailing. They arrived in Samos a week or so before us.Their boat Catalina 36 which was in the Marina nearby, had alternator problems and were stuck awaiting replacement. They too had hired transport for the day, so we had plenty to discuss and laugh about. We listened to their tales of near misses and great sailing, they reciprocated while we shared a few drinks and a lovely warm balmy evening together. Very nice couple, who I am sure we will meet again. And so to bed after a brilliant day, happy birthday Kevin 💝 |
Sailing Kejstral AdventuresRetired and following our dream of sailing around the world Archives
April 2019
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